About a month after returning from Naples, I went with some friends to Keste Wall Street for pizza. Roberto Caporuscio, the owner and master pizzaiolo, wasn’t there when we arrived, but we ordered a few pizzas. As I ate, I realized that something was different. The pies did not taste the same as the last time we were here. Everyone agreed with me. Had the ingredients changed or was it because the pizzamaker was different?
When Roberto arrived I told him that I thought the pizzas were different. He said he changed the type of flour. In the past he he used Type Double Zero flour but now he uses only Type 1 flour. Roberto said he believed that Type 1 flour was healthier because it makes a lighter pizza that is more digestible. We made a date to come back again and Roberto said he would be sure to be there and would personally make all the pizza for us using Tipo 1 flour so that we could give him our opinion.
He showed me the dough and I noticed it was a very light beige and it had tiny specks in it. Robert said the specks were wheat germ because Type 1 flour is less refined than the pure white Double Zero. The wheat germ is what adds to its nutritional value.
Robert made the following pizzas for us using Caputo Tipo 1 flour:
Pizza Pasquale (Pizza Fritta), named after Pasquale Torrente, master chef at Ristorante “il Convento” because of his skill in frying. The dough was deep fried using a special sunflower oil containing rosemary. The fried crust is topped with homemade stracciatella cheese, anchovies and fresh lemon.
Padrino mild soppresata, cacciocavallo ragusano, chili oil and Gaeta olives.
Even though some of the combinations on the pizza did not look like they would work they were all excellent. The problem was with the margarita pizza. After I explained this to Roberto he invited me back again this time to Keste and Vino on Bleecker St. He would make one Margarita using Type 1 flour and one using Type 00 and we would have to guess which was which and which one we liked better. He would also more thoroughly explain the difference between the two flours. I am always up for a pizza challenge.