Gage and Tollner

The restaurant was opened 1879 in the Brooklyn on Fulton Street. It reopened in its present location on Fulton Street in 1892 with a Neo-Greco front and ornate interior characteristic of the late Victorian Era. fast-forward to 1973 John Simmons joins Ed Dewry in the ownership and management of the restaurant. John Simmons is a very close friend who now lives in Oregon. I also know the last owned Joe Chirico who closed the restaurant in 1995. 

gage and tollnerI first went to Gage & Tollner in the early 1970’s when I lived in Cobble Hill, Brooklyn and later when I lived in Park Slope, Brooklyn when Edna Louis, a groundbreaking chef, was there.  Michele and I have fond memories of it and felt we had a connection to the restaurant.  The restaurant had existed for many years, but closed in the early 2000’s.  The interior has landmark status, a rarity in this city, and recently reopened with a whole new owner and management team.  We made a date to meet friends there for dinner.  We were happy to see that the restaurant allows you to bring your own wines with a reasonable corkage fee.

IMG_5709We started with Champagne  Billecart-Salmon Brut Reserve NV  Made from 40% Pinot Meunier, 30% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay. It has tiny bubbles, a fruity delicate freshness with hints of citrus fruit, ginger and a touch of brioche.

IMG_5764Chicken Pate — a delicate mousse-like pate with raisins and walnuts, served with warm toast.  This was one of several appetizers that we shared.

IMG_5771Cornmeal Fritters

IMG_5769Corn pudding

IMG_5766Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 1998. Fabiano made from 40% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 25% Rondinella and 5% Croatian. The vineyards are at 190/370 meters and the soil is red compact with clay, rich in skeleton deposits and marly clay. The training system is Pergola Veronese in terraces contained by stone walls (marogne). Harvest is manual. The grapes are soft pressed and partially destemmed, then dried for about 4 months according to the traditional drying method. In the second half of January the grapes are gently pressed and destemmed. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature for about 50 days after 30 days maceration on the skins. The wine is aged in 40HL oak barrels for 30 months and 3 months in bottle before release. This is a complex full bodied wine but also soft and balanced with deep dark fruit, prunes, plums a touch of chocolate, a note of spiced and a hint of cherry. Very traditional and a good food wine. Residual sugar g/4.6.

unnamedfriesThe French Fries were excellent, light, crisp and not greasy

unnamed PorkPork Shoulder Rib Roast for two was juicy and perfectly roasted, topped with cherry mostarda.

Welcome back, Gage & Tollner!  We loved being back, our meal was terrific, and we will be back again soon.

3 Comments

Filed under Amarone, Billecart- Salmon, Fabbiano Amaone, Gage and Tollner

3 responses to “Gage and Tollner

  1. Jonathan Levine

    I too ate there when Edna Lewis was chef, Also arranged a Tasters’ Guild dinner there. Marge and I were early and they let Marge light the gas lamps. Food and service was great. Your meal and wines sound terrific

    Liked by 1 person

  2. Ciao Jonathan-thanks, it was a also a great experience

    Like

  3. Absolutely love the interior of the restaurant! How wonderful that they’ve reopened! Dinner looked amazing as did the wines, as per usual! So lovely to be able to share with friends again after all this time!

    Liked by 1 person

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