Ilaria Petitto & The Wines of Donnachiara at Il Gattopardo

I have known Ilaria Petitto, CEO of the Donnachiara Winery, for some time and have always enjoyed her wines. I also have visited the winery in Campania a few times. Recently, Il Gattopardo Restaurant hosted a tasting and lunch, and I was very pleased to attend and see Ilaria again.

Ilaria spoke about the winery. She said the winery is located in Montefalcione in the Irpinia area near Avellino. The modern winery was completed in 2005 but the vineyards have been in the family for over 150 years. Ilaria’s mother, Chiara Petitto, is a big supporter of her work in the winery, which is named after her  mother’s grandmother whom everyone called “Donna” Chiara as a sign of respect.

 The consulting oenologist for Donnachiara is the legendary Riccardo Cotarella. It is the philosophy of the winery to preserve the traditional grape varieties of the local territory and keep the typical character of the wines from being lost to standardization, like many of the wines on the market today. They also follow “Misura CE n.1257/99 – “Produzione integrata della Regione Campania,” limiting the use of some active ingredients that are harmful to the environment.

Ilaria proudly announced that she is now the Vice President of the Conosrzio di Tutela dei Vini dell’Irpinia.

THE WHITE WINES

Fiano di Avellino DOCG 2021, 100% Fiano. The soil is chalky clay and there are 4,400 plants per hectare.  The vines are guyot trained and the harvest takes place in the second half of October. There is a soft pressing of the grapes that are quickly cooled to 50F for 4 to 6 hours. Fermentation is at 57 to 60F in steel tanks for 15 days. Malolactic fermentation does not take place. This is a delicate and elegant wine with hints of pear, almonds, citrus fruit and floral. This grape variety was brought to Campania by the Ancient Greeks. The Romans called it vitis apiana – the Latin root for bees is apiana. Even today bees are attracted to the Fiano grape and Ilaria said you can see the honey bees in the vineyards in Montefalcione.

Fiano di Avellino  BIO “Empatia” 2021, 100% Fiano di Avellino  Ilaria said only the best grapes from the vineyard in Montefalcione, which is certified organic, are used for this wine.  The grapes are hand harvested the second half of October at the coolest part of the day and there is a very careful selection. The soil is chalky and the training system is guyot. Cryomaceration (crushed grapes are held at low temperature) is at 42-46F to preserve the aroma, prevent oxidation and enhance the characteristics of the grapes. There is a soft pressing of the grapes using a pneumatic press and fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks for about 14 days. Malolactic fermentation does not take place. The wine spends some time in bottle before release. This is an impressively elegant wine with hints of apple, almonds, tropical fruit and floral notes with a long finish and pleasing aftertaste.

Greco di Tufo DOCG 2020 made from 100% Greco. The soil is tuffaceous and the training system is guyot. There are 3,300 plants per hectare and the harvest takes place the second half of October. A soft pressing of selected grapes takes place and after that a cold decanting of the must in steel vats for 15 days. Fermentation is at 57 to 60F. Malolactic fermentation does not take place. This is an elegant wine with good structure with hints of pear, apricot, citrus and a touch of pineapple.

Greco di Tufo “Aletheia” 2020, DOCG 100% Greco di Tufo  Only the best grapes from the Santa Paolina vineyard in the Tufa zone are used. The harvest is by hand during the coolest parts of the day, the second half of October. The soil is tuffaceous and the training system is guyot. Cryomaceration is at 42-46F to preserve the aroma, prevent oxidation and enhance the characteristics of the grapes. There is a soft pressing of the grapes using a pneumatic press and fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks for about 15 days. The fermented must is left to age on the lees for about a year with weekly batonnage. Malolactic fermentation does not take place. The wine remains in the bottle for a period of time before release. This is an intense wine with hints of citrus fruit, pear, apricot and a hint of hazelnuts and pineapple.

It was interesting to taste the Fiano and the Fiano Empatia side by side. You can tell the two apart because the Empatia has more body and a greater depth of aromas and flavors. Both are wines that will age very well and I have had Fiano and that has been 20 years old and still drinking very well. I can say the same thing for the Greco and the Greco Aletheia.

With the white wines we had Cavatelli di Grano Antico “Senatore Cappelli” con fagioli Spollichini e Cozze, cavatelli pasta made with high protein flour, fresh beans and mussels. All four the wines were a great combination with this dish.

Even though we did not have the Falanghina at this event, I must mention that Donnachiara’s is one of the best that it has been my pleasure to drink!

THE RED WINES

Irpinia Aglianico DOC 2020, 100% Aglianico. The soil is clay, the training system is guyot and the harvest takes place the first  week in November. Fermentation takes place at 68 to 71 F in stainless steel tanks for 15 days. Maturation is on the skins for 10 days. Malolactic fermentation is in barriques. The wine is full and complex with hints of prune, blueberries and a note of spice.

Taurasi DOCG 2018.   The soil is clay and the training system is guyot. There are 4,000 plants per hectare and harvest takes place the first week of November. The wine is aged for 12 months in 225-liter French barriques and remains in the bottle for another 24 months before release. The wine has hints of blackberry, plum, cherry and a touch of cacao. The use of barrique is subtle and did not mask the character of the wine. Taurasi is a wine that can age for many years and I have had Taurasi the has been over 40 years old that was a pleasure to drink.

With the red wine we had Tacchino del “Ringraziamento” ripeno di Castagne e Salsiccia con friatielli saltati in padella, Thanksgiving turkey stuffed with chestnuts and sausage with sauteed broccoli rabe.

Both the Aglianico and the Taurasi paired well with the turkey and the stuffing. Both had enough fruit and body to go along with  a traditional turkey dinner with all the trimmings.

The wines range in price from $20 to $36 and are a fantastic bargain.

The event was organized by Susannah Gold of Vigneto Communication.  Susannah is a true professional.

Lunch for Four at IL Gattopardo NYC

One recent fine summer day, we made arrangements with friends to meet for lunch at Il Gattopardo Restaurant.  Vito Gnazzo, Chef Partner at Il Gattopardo Group, stopped by to greet us and we asked him for some suggestions for our lunch.  

We started with Crostini topped with burrata and black truffles.

My first course was grilled octopus with roasted fingering potatoes, celery hearts and Castelvetrano olives

Michele had bufala mozzarella, with prosciutto and heirloom tomatoes

Monferrato Freisa 2018 Oreste Buzio made from 100% Freisa. The training system is espalier with guyot pruning. There are 5,000 plants per hectare. The soil is limestone/clay and the exposure is south-southeast. Tillage and only organic fertilizer in alternate years. The weeds are mowed.  There is a copper based fungicide treatment, sulfur and micro-organisms.  Harvest is manual. Alcoholic fermentation is in steel tanks and the wine is aged for 8 months in steel. The winery is organic. This is a medium bodied wine with hints of red fruit, raspberries and spicy notes.

Pasta

Homemade “tre dita” pasta made with toasted durum flour and topped with vegetable caponata and light tomato sauce.

Paccheri with “Genovese” sauce of slow-cooked pork and onions, one of the restaurant’s signature dishes.

Porcini Mushroom and Provola Ravioli in a tomato and marjoram sauce

Sardinian fregola risotto-style with asparagus tips and scallops

Barolo 2005 “Conca” Fratelli Revello 100% Nebbiolo from vineyards in the Annunziata subzone Conca dell’Annunziata planted in 1954. It is a 0.7 ha plot facing south at 250 meters. The soil is calcareous-clay and the harvest is in early mid October. Vinification is in horizontal roto-fermenters for about 6/8 days with the skins followed by completion of alcoholic fermentation in stainless steel tanks for about 10/15 days. Malolactic fermentation is in barriques. The wine is aged in French barriques, 40% new and 60% used for 24 months. Bottling takes place in July the year before release for sale. The wine is released in March of the fourth year following harvest. It has hints of cherry and spice with a touch of leather and a note of vanilla.

Baba au Rhum with whipped cream and fresh berries

Pastiera, the traditional Neapolitan Wheatberry Cheesecake

We finished with 3 amari.

From Piedmont, Borgogno Chinato made from Nebbiolo

Vicario ” Monk’s Secret” made in the USA

Reset Amaro made in Sicily

Lunch at IL Gattopardo

Michele and I recently got our second vaccine shots.  We waited the recommended couple of weeks until the vaccine reached full effectiveness, then decided to celebrate.  We had not eaten indoors in a restaurant since March 6, of 2020, our last day in Rome.  A friend wanted to join us so I made a reservation at IL Gattopardo for lunch because we knew they would follow all of the safety protocols recommended.  When we arrived, we were pleased to see that all of the tables in the restaurant were well spaced and everyone was wearing a mask.

Two appetizers arrived at the table while we contemplated the menu.

Arancini, fried rice balls seasoned with tomato and cheese.

Crostini with anchovies.  Simple but the perfect combination of crispy toast and tasty fish.

We also shared an appetizer of very fresh bufala mozzarella with marinated cherry tomatoes and grilled eggplant

Barolo Riserva 1952 Borgogno 100% Nebbiolo. The grapes come from three different cru vineyards: Cannubi, Liste and Fossati. The winery is located in the center of the town of Barolo. The wine is aged at least five years in large oak barrels. This is a wine produced with traditional and natural wine making methods. Long fermentation and pumping over by hand takes place. Today the Farinetti family that also owns Eataly owns the winery. I have always had very good luck with older vintages of Borgogno. This is a classic traditional Barolo with hints of coffee, licorice, tar, savory meats and a touch of smoke. It was showing some age but still could last a few more years. Recently I have had the 1947 and the 1989. The 1947 did not show as well as the 1952 and the 1989 while showing better seemed a little old for a great vintage

Three different pastas were next.  Mine was homemade ravioli with a ricotta and veal filling.  Unfortunately, I don’t have a photo of it.

Mafalda pasta with Cherry Tomato Sauce and Bufala Ricotta.  A simple, sweet fresh tomato sauce topped with Parmigiano-Reggiano and Bufala Ricotta.

Pasta Genovese with Paccheri — A classic pasta dish from Napoli, made with a meaty onion sauce.

Barbaresco 1978 Produttori del Barbaresco made from 100% Nebbiolo from various vineyards in the DOCG zone. The soil is limestone and clay, rich in calcium with sandy veins. Vinification is in stainless steel at a controlled temperature. There is 30 days of skin contact and pumping over 2 to 3 times a day. The wine is aged for two years in large oak barrels. The wine has hints of black raspberries, cherries, leather, tea and a hint of spice. It was showing very well. Produttori del Barbaresco is a wine cooperative, arguably the best in Italy.

For the main course two of us had  lamb shank braised with red wine, pearl onions and potatoes.

Michele had Codfish “in casseruola” with Gaeta olives, pantelleria capers, cherry tomatoes and roasted organic potatoes.  She declared it delicious.

Three different desserts were the finishing touch.  One was Zabaione al Ramandolo with mixed berries served in a glass.

Next came La Pastiera, the traditional Neapolitan cheesecake made with wheat berries.  It was served with a light Creme Anglaise.

Delizia Limone  — An airy lemon cake with lemon cream filling and frosting.  It is a specialty of the Amalfi Coast.

Lunch at Il Gattopardo NYC

Il Gattopardo was the last restaurant in New York City I visited before leaving for Italy on February 4.  At that time, our plan was to stay in Italy for 5 weeks, but we left a week early when everything began to close down.  Finally,  as  we  learn  to  cope  with our  new pandemic  lifestyle,  we  were  able  to return  to  Il  Gattopardo, which reopened  last  week.  

On a perfect late summer afternoon, the owner Gianfranco Sorrentino, properly masked of course, greeted us with not one, but two welcoming elbow bumps, mimicking the Italian tradition of due baci, two kisses, one for each cheek.
Gianfranco had designed a lovely Italian-style sidewalk cafe outside the restaurant.

We began with an Aperol Spritz for Michele while we nibbled on crisp crusted rice balls. 

Chef Vito Gnazzo came over to say hello and make some suggestions. We decided to follow his advice.

For the first course I had octopus  salad  with  potatoes,  olives  and some  crispy  greens.

Michele had  a summer  favorite,  fresh  mozzarella  with  tomatoes, basil  and  extra  virgin  olive  oil.  It  was  just  right,  she  said,  simple and well  seasoned  and  with  no  extra  embellishment  of  balsamic  vinegar,  a pet  peeve  of  hers.

Chef Vito sent us out a taste of a very delicious pasta, linguine with zucchini, cuttlefish and shaved bottarga. It  is  an  unusual  combination and  we  enjoyed  every  bite.

For a main course, we had more pasta.  This was fregola, small bits of lightly toasted pasta from Sardinia, here cooked like risotto until creamy with tiny asparagus and chopped scallops.  Readers of this blog know that Michele and I frequently eat a variety of different pastas, but we were delighted to try these two, which were new for both of us.

With lunch we drank Fiano di Avellino DOCG 2019 DonnaChiara 100% Fiano. The soil is chalky clay and there are 4,400 plants per hectare.  The vines are guyot trained and the harvest is the second half of October. There is a soft pressing of the grapes that are quickly cooled to 50F for 4 to 6 hours. Fermentation is at 57 to 60F in steel tanks for 15 days. Malolactic fermentation does not take place. This is a delicate and elegant wine with hints of almonds, floral notes and citrus fruit. It is a real pleasure to drink and it was a perfect combination with the food. I also saw this week that Daniele Cernilli aka Dr. Wine in his  Essential Guide to the Wines of  Italy rates this wine  95/100 and I agree.

 

For dessert, we had tiny cannoli lined with chocolate with a ricotta and chocolate filling.

As if that were not enough, I couldn’t leave without ordering the Pastiera, the restaurant’s signature dessert, and a Neapolitan icon.  It is a cheesecake made with wheat, orange zest and cinnamon.  Once it was enjoyed in Naples only at Easter time, but now it is eaten all year round. It  is  a favorite  of  mine.

Biscotti and espresso ended our meal.

What a pleasure to be able to dine at Il Gattopardo once again.  Perhaps next time we will combine our visit with a stop at the Museum of Modern Art which is just across the street.

Wine and Food at Gattopardo with Tony Di Dio

 

Recently I posted on Facebook pictures of wine and foods I had at Gattopardo with Tony Di Dio of Tony Di Dio Selections. The response to the posting was so positive that I decided to do a blog about that lunch.

Etna Bianco “Alta Mora” DOC 2016 Cusumano (Sicily) made from 100% Carricante from 6 hectares of vines at 600 meters, the training system is espalier. The average age of the vines is 15 years.Production area is: Milo, Praino contrada, side and Castiglione di Sicily in the Verzella contrada.

Light pneumatic pressing takes place followed by static decanting and racking. Fermentation temperature controlled stainless steel tanks at 18/20 degrees C. Then the wine remains on the lees in stainless steel tanks for 4 months and successive fining in bottle. This wine has hints of citrus fruit, honey and a touch of almonds in the aftertaste.

Carricante is one of my favorite Sicilian white grapes.

Vermentino Di Maremma Toscana “Balbino” DOC 2016 Terenzi made from 100% Vermentino. The soil is rich in limestone, the training system is guyot and there are 5,000 plants per hectare. Their harvest is in the middle of September. There is a soft pressing of the grapes with a pneumatic press. Fermentation is in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature without the skins for 12 days. Malolactic fermentation does not take place. The wine remains in stainless steel tanks until it is bottled.

The wine has hints of citrus fruit, floral notes and a touch of herbs.

With it, we enjoyed fried artichokes with prosciutto di Parma.

Chardonnay “Felesia” d’Amico (Umbria) made from 100% Chardonnay. The vineyards are at 450 meters. The wine is aged for 10 months in first, second and third passage French oak barrels and another 5 months in bottle before release. The wine has hints of almonds, honey, butter and vanilla.

We enjoyed mozzarella “in carrozza,” water buffalo milk mozzarella coated with crumbs and served with a light anchovy sauce.

Etna Rosso “Alta Mora” DOC 2015 Cusumano made from 100% Nerello Mascalese from Castiglione di Sicily, in the contradas of Verzella, Pietramarina, Feudo di Mezzo and Solicchiata. The vineyard is 12 hectares at 600/800 meters, the training system is free standing espalier and the average age of the vines is 20 years.

Manual harvest. There is a light pressing and destemming, maceration at 28 degrees C for 12 days. Malolactic fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks and successive fining in 25 hl barrels. This is a fruity aromatic red wine with hints of red fruit, currants and raspberries. It is an easy drinking wine.

Grilled octopus with oven baked fingerling potatoes

Linguette with Manila Clams and Cherry Tomatoes was thin spaghetti with briny fresh clams and sweet tomatoes.

Sangiovese Morellino di Scansano Riserva 2014 DOCG Terenzi (Tuscany) made from 100% Sangiovese. The soil is deep with coarse sand and clay, stony and well drained. Training system is cordon spur and there are 5,000 vines per hectare. Harvest is at the end of September. There is destemming and partial rupture of the grapes and then a pneumatic press is used. Fermentation lasts for 15 days in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. Maceration is on the skins during alcoholic fermentation. Malolactic fermentation occurs spontaneously in stainless steel tanks. The wine is aged for 12 months in tonneaux and large Slavonian oak casks and in bottle for 6 months before release. This is a full bodied, well balanced wine with hints of red berries, cloves, spice and black pepper.

Paccheri pasta with Genovese sauce. A classic Neapolitan dish, it consists of large pasta tubes in a long cooked onion sauce.

Neapolitan Lunch at IL Gattopardo NYC

For my next to last birthday celebration this year, Michele and I went to Il Gattopardo.

Gianfranco Sorrentino

A meal there is like eating in southern Italy with the emphasis on Campania and Naples. Gianfranco Sorrentino, the owner, is the perfect host.

Chef  Vito Gnazzo

Vito Gnazzo, the chef, always comes out to tell us the specials and give his recommendations.

It is also one of the most comfortable restaurants in the city and the service is always excellent.

We started with a bottle of Costa D’Amalfi DOC Tramonti Bianco 2015 from Giuseppe Apicella made from 60% Falanghina and 40% Biancolella. Exposure mainly southwest, and the pergola cultivation is at 300 to 500 meters. In the new vineyards there is guyot training and between 4,000 and 5,000 plants per hectare. Pergola there is 2,500 plants per hectare. Harvest takes place the second half of October and the grapes are hand picked. After a careful selection in the vineyard, the stalks are removed and the grapes macerate with the skins before they are pressed. The must is decanted by a static cold system and selected yeasts are injected into the must. It then ferments at a low temperature. Fermentation lasts for 20 to 30 days. The wine remains on the lees for 4 to 5 months. The wine was fruity and fresh with a good structure; it had hints of tropical fruit, honey and a touch of green apple, good acidity, a long finish and pleasing aftertaste.

The restaurant sent out rice balls and escarole pie

After speaking to Vito, we ordered Buffalo Mozzarella in Carrozza with a light anchovy sauce. This is one of Michele’s favorites and she always orders it when we are in Naples. It is the ultimate toasted cheese sandwich made with sweet creamy buffalo mozzarella. The anchovy sauce is the perfect sharp counterpoint to the crisp toast and sweet cheese.

With the next two dishes we had the Brunello di Montalcino 1970 from Silvio Nardi made from 100% Sangiovese. The wine was showing its age and after 3/4 of the bottle was gone and became undrinkable.

Next we went with one of the specials Pappardelle with Rabbit and Mushroom Ragu, which was delicious.

For the main course, I had a dish I have never seen on a menu in a restaurant in Naples but is often made in people’s homes. Traditional Neapolitan meatloaf, served with mashed potatoes and sautéed spinach. This is one of my favorites.

For desert we always order the same thing: La Pastiera, a traditional Neapolitian cheesecake. Vito’s version is light and delicate, and one of the best I have ever eaten.

Il Gattopardo 13-15 W. 54th St. NY, NY
212-246-0412