Just before we were to leave for Rome, I received an email from Gianfranco Sorrentino of the restaurant IL Gattopardo and The Leopard at des Artistes NYC. He wanted to introduce me to Giulia D’Alema, owner of La Madeleine Winery in Umbria and suggested that I could meet with her in Rome. I contacted Giulia and we agreed to meet for lunch at a restaurant where I could taste her wines.
Giulia said that she had lived and worked in NYC for a number of years and still has an apartment there but each time she visited the winery she felt more and more at home there. She left her job in NYC so she could devote her time and energy to the winery. She also has an apartment in Rome which is only 40 minutes from the winery.
Cantina Madeleine winery is in Narni in the the province of Terni in Umbria. The winery was founded in 2008 by Linda and Massimo D’Alema. Today Giulia is the co-owner with her brother Franco. Giulia is also the General Manager of the estate. There are over 15 hectares of which about 7 are planted in vines.
Giulia explained that after extensive research they decided to plant Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc on the property. This was a very unusual choice but they felt these were the perfect grapes to grow. They also plan in the future to make wine from the Ciliegie grape, which is an indigenous variety.
Riccardo Cotarella is the enologist and they are in involved in “The Wine Research Team” network.
Giulia said “The Wine Research Team” is a group of companies that represents an Italian winemaking industry that believes in the value of scientific research and uses this to produce better and healthier wines so that wine continues to be both a modern and a century-old source of pleasure. The WRT logo, a ship with one unfolded sail, indicates the fascinating challenge between man and nature, the winemaker and his vines.
“The Team” was created as a brand during the harvest of 2012 with the aim of distinguishing 25 wineries that express the majority of Italy’s winemaking regions, from Piedmont to Calabria. The wineries all follow the technical guidance of winemaker Riccardo Cotarella. Since the 2012 harvest, a technical protocol has been set out in order to make outstanding quality wine without the use of added sulphates.
Following the positive experience shared by wineries with solid traditions as well as recently created wine producers, all representative of Italian winemaking, “The Wine Research Team” network was founded in June 2014 with the aim of sharing the experience and know-how between the members.
La Madeleine has been part of the WRT since it was founded.
THE WINES
Spumante “Nerosè” Brut 100% Pinot Noir (Classic method). The soil is medium textured, generally clayey and rich in skeleton. The vineyard is at 180 meters and the exposure is northeast. There are 5,400 plants per hectare and the training system is guyot. Harvest takes place the second half of August. Vinification is in stainless steel and the wine remains on the lees for at least 36 months. This is an elegant sparkling wine with hint of citrus fruit, almonds, a touch of brioche and a note of ginger. The first vintage was 2012.
Spumante “Nerosé 60” Brut Rosato 100% Pinot Noir (Classic method) everything is the same as above but the wine spends 60 months on the lees. This is a complex wine with hints of strawberries, currants, raspberries, good acidity and a note of minerality.
Umbria Rosso IGT “Sfide” made from 100% Cabernet Franc. Mixed textured soil that is clayey and rich in skeleton. The vineyard is at 160 meters. There are 5,400 plants per hectare. Harvest takes place in the middle of September. Vinification is in stainless steel. The wine is aged in barriques for 8/10 months and in bottle for at least 4 months before release. This is an easy drinking fruity wine with hints of raspberry, strawberry and cherry. The wine is produced without added sulfites based on an innovative technique shared with other companies in the “Wine Research Team” network, headed by Dr. Riccardo Cotarella. The first vintage was 2012.
Umbria Rosso IGT “Narnot” made from 100% Cabernet Franc. Mixed textured soil that is clayey and rich in skeleton, The vineyard is at 160 meters. The are 5,400 plants per hectare. Harvest takes place in the middle of September. Vinification is in stainless steel. The wine is aged in used barriques for 18 months and in bottle for 12 months before release. This a rich full wine with red fruit aromas and flavors a touch of cherry, a note of bell pepper and a pinch of herbs. The first vintage was in 2011.
Umbria Rosso IGT Pinot Nero made from 100% Pinot Nero. The vineyard is at 180 meters. Vinification is in steel. Aging is in barriques for 16 months and in bottle for 12 months before release. The wine has hints of red fruit like cherry and raspberry with a touch of clove and a note of vanilla. First vintage was 2012. This is a very impressive Italian Pinot Noir.
It was a pleasure meeting and speaking to Giulia about her winery.
Charles Scicolone on Wine 