Italian White Wines For All Seasons

Here are 12 white wines that you can enjoy all year long.

Marche Bianco IGT 2016 made from 70% Verdicchio and 30% Ribona (aka Macratino).  Tenuta La Floriana. The wine is aged in second passage barriques. The wine has hints of white and yellow stone fruit, a touch of apple, floral notes and almonds.

Toscana IGT “Pantagruel” made from mostly Vermentino with Malvasia and Viognier Castello della Mugazzena. There are 5,000 plants per hectare and the grapes are handpicked the second week of September. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel at a controlled temperature and part of the maceration and fermentation is in wood. The wine is aged in steel and part in barriques on the lees. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, vanilla and  a touch of melon.

Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2018 DOCG “Campo Della Pieve” made from 100% Vernaccia di San Gimignano Il Colombio Di Santachiara. The soil is deep sand and clay and the elevation is 360 to 400 meters and there are 5,500 vines per hectare. Harvest is by hand the end of September or beginning of October. There is a soft pressing of the grapes and fermentation takes place with indigenous yeast at a controlled temperature. Maturation is on the fine lees and takes place in cement vats with periodic batonnage for 18/20 months. This is an elegant well-structured wine with hints of citrus fruit and wild flowers.$19

Civitella d”Agliano IGT 2019 made from 100% Grechetto Poggio dell Acosta. The grapes are hand picked and there are no chemical additives. Traditional white wine fermentation at a controlled temperature takes place. The wine remains on the lees for several months. This is a fruity aromatic wine with hints a citrus fruit, pineapple and touch of white flowers.

Vermentino DOC “Colli di Luni” Fosso di Corsano 2018 Terenzuola made from 100% Vermentino. The vineyard is located in Fosdinova at 200/350 meters. In the major part of the vineyard the soil is schists and on the other part sand. There are 8,400 plants per hectare and the training system is guyot. Hand harvested during the last weeks of September and the first week of October. There is a soft pressing and a quick maceration and a low fermentation temperature for each of the different parcels. Aging on its own yeasts in steel for 6/7 months. The wine is bottled in March and released 2/3 months later.This is a dry white wine with hints of citrus fruit, green apple with floral notes and a touch of almonds.

Greco di Tufo DOCG 2017 DI Meo made from 100% Greco. The production area is Santa Paolina and Tufo (AV). The vineyard is at 480 meters and the soil is mainly clay and limestone. The exposure is northwest and there are 4,000 plants per hectare. The training system is espalier with monolateral guyot pruning. Harvest is the first week of October. There is a manual harvest of selected bunches. The grapes are destemmed that there is cryomaceration with soft pressing of the grapes. Fermentation is in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature. The wine remains in steel tanks for 3 months and then in bottle for 3 months before release. This is a fresh wine with hints of orange blossoms, cedar and lime with a note of exotic fruits.

Fiano di Avellino “Alimata” 2013 made from 100% Fiano di Avellino. Villa Raiano Alimata is the name of a district of the town of Monteferdane, Avellino, on the eastern slope of the hill at 350 meters. The vineyard is two hectares and the soil is hard clay based on marly layers. Harvest is the first week of October.  Fermentation is in stainless steel tanks and the wine ages in stainless steel on the lees for 12 months and 12 months in bottle before release. This is an exceptional Fiano with hints of honey, pears, peaches, apple, floral notes and a touch of hazelnuts and a note of smoke. I was very impressed with this wine.$26

Pecorino BIo IGP made from 100% Pecorino Agriverde. The exposure is south, south/east and the training system is Pergola Abruzzese. There are 3,000 vines per hectare. The harvest starts in late August and goes into early September. Vinification takes place in stainless steel at a controlled temperature. The wine is aged in bottle and then released. The wine has hints of peach, sage, white flowers, with a touch of balsamic herbs and a note of almonds in the finish.

Cococciola Terre di Chieti 2010 IGT 100% Cococciolo Cantina Frentana. This is an ancient indigenous grape variety of the province of Chieti mainly grown in the area around Rocco San Giovanni. The big grape bunches are irregular in shape and some are wing-tipped. It is a grape with good acidity and good yields. In the past it was only used for blending with other grapes. The harvest takes place towards the end of September. The grapes are soft pressed and fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks at controlled temperatures. Malolactic fermentation does not take place. The first time I had this unusual white I really liked it. There is a slight herbal and mineral character to the wine, good body with aromas and flavors of apple and citrus fruit.

Pinot Grigio DOC 2018 Friuli Colli Orientali “Mandonna d”Aiuto” Valentino Butussi Made from 100% Pinot Grigio Ramato. The exposure is south westerly and the soil is of alluvial and colluvial origin composed of marl deep down and calcareous stones at the surface. There are 4,400 vines per hectare and the training system is double-arched cane. Harvest is by hand and there is a manual selection of the grapes when they have reached optimum ripeness. The grapes are destemmed and macerate on the skins, until there is a spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeast. Daily manual punching down of the cap takes place until fermentation stops naturally. Tradition pressing is used modified to work at a low pressure. After static settling for 24 hours the cloudy wine goes into traditional Friulian 700 liter oak barrels for 8/10 months. The wine spends 12 months in bottle and is released for sale the Easter following the bottling. The wine has hints of orange blossoms, apples and pears with a long dry finish.

Massoferrato Bianco 2018 made from 100% Sangiovese. The winery is located in Impruneta in  the Colli Fiorentini just south of Florence.The vineyard is on a south facing slope.The juice is separated from the skins immediately. The wine is not filtered so it has a light pink color. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel at a controlled temperature. This is a structured white wine with hints of violets, white flowers and exotic fruits.  I had this wine at I Trulli restaurant in NYC  a few days ago and at around $17 (retail) it is a very good buy,

Ferrari Brut Trento DOC NV Methodo Classico 100% Chardonnay. (Trentino) The grapes are picked by hand at the beginning of September. They come from various communes in the Val d’Adige, Val di Cembra and Valle dei Laghi. The vineyards are between 300 and 700 meters above sea level, with southeast or southwest exposure. The wine is aged for at least 24 months on the lees. It is selected yeast from Ferrari’s own cultures. The wine has a fresh and intense bouquet with hints of apples, white flowers and a touch of brioche. I included this one sparkling wine because it is made from 100% Chardonnay and it a true bargain at $20

 

 

A Wine Tasting to Remember

 

Just before I was to leave for Italy I was invited by Riccardo Gabrielli of PR comunicare il vino to Il Gattopardo restaurant. Riccardo represents many of the best wineries in Italy and I am always happy to taste the wines and speak with Riccardo. At the time I did not realize that this was going to be my last wine tasting for some time given the present situation. I was very happy the wines were showing so well.

Riccardo

When I arrived there was only one other person at the table, Alfredo Miccoli, chef/owner of Al Mar restaurant in Brooklyn, NY. I know Alfredo and have been to his restaurant and was looking forward to discussing the wines with him.

THE WINES

Le Grane” Colli (Le Marche) DOC 2018 made from 100% Ribona (aka Maceratino) Boccadigabbia. Ribona is a rare gape varietal grown only in the province of Macerata. The 23 hectares of vineyards stand on hills in two separate zones in Civitanova and Macerata. The soil is sandy-clayey and the exposure is northeast and the training system is guyot. The grape clusters are soft crushed and fermentation lasts for about 12 days in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. After fermentation, whole slightly overripe berries are added to the wine. This second fermentation lasts for 10 days and allows an added extraction of compounds and aromatics from the skins. This is a well-structured wine with fragrances of ripe citrus fruit and a hint of melon.

La Lupinella Trebbiano Toscana IGT 2018 made from 100% Trebbiano. The vineyard is in Sant’Ansano (Vinci). The grapes are carefully selected by hand and a small part, about 2%, is picked from the bunches, set aside and later added during fermentation which takes place in terracotta jars, to intensify the aromatic character of the wine. The wine remains on the lees for a minimum of 6 months without undergoing malolactic fermentation and is aged at least 3 months in the bottle before release. This is a fresh fruity well-balanced wine with hints of peach, white flowers and a touch of almonds.

Pinot Grigio “Ramato” Friuli Colli Orientali 20i8 Valentino Butussi made from 100% Pinot Grigio planted in 1984, 1978 and 2004 on hill slopes of Eocene-era stratified marl and sandstone. There are 4,400 vines per hectare and the training system in guyot. Selected hand picked grapes harvested in September when the grapes have reached optimal ripeness. The grapes are destemmed and gently pressed and the resulting must is chilled to 10-12 degrees C. The free-run must is separated from the second-quality juice and sent to be fermented. The wine remains for 6 months in steel casks and 2 to 4 months in bottle before release. The wine has aromas and flavors of citrus fruit, with a touch of acacia blossoms.

Rosato di Nero d’Avola ”Luigia” IG 2018 IGT, Sicily Barone Sergio made from 100% Nero d’Avola. This is a Nero d’Avola vinified like a white wine. The wine is aged in steel for 6 to 7 months and in bottle for 2 months before release. It is an easy to drink fruity wine with hints of strawberry, cherry and black currants.

Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba DOCG “Garabei” 2017  Giovanni Abrigo made from 100% Dolcetto planted in 1968. The estate is situated on a hill in Diano d’Alba at a high altitude. They own 11 hectares of vineyards. The soil is sandy with a lot of gravel. The juice is fermented naturally on the skins for 8 days in stainless steel tanks. After racking the wine is aged for 12 months in stainless steel and spends 4 more months in bottle before release. The wines are not filtered or fined. Sustainable farming methods are used. The wine has hints of red fruit, cherries and raspberries with a hint of spice and a touch of lavender. I was able to drink this wine with dinner one night and was very impressed it.

Costa Toscana IGT 2014  “Vallino”  La Regola made from Cabernet Sauvignon with a variable percentage of Sangiovese. The vineyards are at 150 to 200 meters. The soil is red Mediterranean with many stones. Harvest is by hand with a carful selection. Manual selection of grapes in the winery, medium maceration, fermentation is in natural concrete vats at a controlled temperature. After malolactic fermentation the wine ages for 12 months in French barriques of second and third passage. The wine remains in bottle for at least 12 months before release. This is a concentrated  wine with  hints of red and black berries, a touch of spice and a note of  vanilla.

Pietro Beconcini “IXE” IGT Toscana Tempranillo 2016  The name is the Tuscan pronunciation for the letter X. The letter X stands for unknown vines. In the early 1950’s, 213 vines of unknown species were found in the vineyard which were called X vines. With help from the Ministry of Agriculture these vines were declared to be Tempranillo a few years ago. In June of 2009, Tempranillo was enrolled in the Tuscan register. As far as I know Tempranillo was never cultivated before in Italy.

This wine is made from 99.9% of Tempranillo and a touch of Sangiovese. The winery is located in the town of San Miniato. The vineyard is 3.5 hectares and the grapes are all from the new vineyards planted in 1997 using a massal selection from buds taken from the century old vines of Tempranillo from the Vigna alle Nicchie. The training is spurred cordon. Soil is sandstone with marine fossil formation, well integrated with abundant clay. 100/150 meters above sea level and there are 7,000 vines per hectare. Harvest the first 10 days of September. The grapes are dried for 4 weeks and they obtain a total yield of 70%. Fermentation takes place in temperature controlled glass lined cement vats and maceration is for 3 weeks. Aging lasts for 14 months in 70% French barriques and 30% American oak barriques of second passage. 6 months in bottle before release. First passage in barriques is for the wine from the grapes of the historical vineyard Vigna alle Nicchie that goes into the wine of the same name. This origin of this grape variety is not known for certain.

Tintilia Del Molise Rosso DOP Cantine Catabbo made from 100% Tintilia from San Martino in Pensilis. The vineyard is at 300 meters and the soil in medium clay. The vineyard was planted in 1998. The cultivation is low cordon outcrop and there are 4,400 vines per hectare. Harvest is by hand the first week of October. Fermentation lasts for 15 to 20 days. The wine remains in steel for 12 months and then in bottle until release. The wine has hints of red fruit, cherry, with a note of dried flowers and a touch of licorice and spice.

Montefalco Rosso 2016 Bocale made from 70% Sangiovese, 15% Sagrantino, 10% Merlot and 5% Colorino. Harvest takes place by hand from the last ten days of September to early October. Vinification is exclusively with natural enzymes. The wine does not undergo any kind of stabilization or filtration. Presence of sediment should be considered a guarantee of authenticity. The wine is aged in barrels and barriques for about 12 months and aged in bottle for at least 6 months before release. This is a balanced wine with hints of cherry, violets and floral scents and a touch of spice.

Montefalco Rosso Riserva 2016 Pardi made from 70% Sangiovese, 15% Sagrantino, Merlot and Cabernet 15%. Harvest takes place the first of October. Fermentation takes place with the skins for 10 days. Alcoholic and malolactic fermentation is in stainless steel. The wine is aged in barriques for 12 months and in steel for 6 months. The wine remains in bottle for 6 months before release. The wine has hints of red berries, plum, clove and a hint of tobacco.

Trefiano Carmignano 2013 Capezzano made from 80% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet and 10% Canaiolo. The exposure is south/west and the vineyards are at 150 to 200 meters. The age of the vines is 22 years. The soil is clay schist and limestone. Vinification is in steel tanks. There is 7 days of alcoholic fermentation followed by another maceration with the skins, before racking at a controlled temperature. Malolactic fermentation is in French tonneaux. The wine is aged in tonneaux for 24 months and in bottle for about one year before release. This is a wine with hints of red fruit, violets, spicy notes and what I call the aroma of sunshine on the Tuscan pines.

 

 

 

Unique Grapes of Italy

There are so many grape varieties in Italy that it is impossible to know them all. It is a very humbling experience. There is always something new to discover.

PR Vino, an Italian PR agency, represents a number of wineries that produce wines from some rare varieties some of which I have never tasted or have had little experience with.

Elisa Bosco

Since I wanted to try these wines, I contacted Elisa Bosco who is in charge of the USA programs and activities for PR Vino. I asked her if she would like to do a tasting for the Wine Media Guild. Elisa agreed and sent me a list of the wineries.  I chose the most unique and interesting wines, plus a few of my favorites.  The tasting and lunch was held at Felidia Restaurant in NYC and Elisa was the speaker.

Below are the white wines plus one dessert wine.  I will do the red wines separately.

 

The White Wines

 

Trebbiano Spoletino “Farandola” (Umbria) 2016 IGT Di Filippo made from 100% Trebbiano Spoletino

The winery overlooks Assisi between Torgiano and Montefalco. The soil is clayey-calcareous and the vineyards are on hillsides. Training method is guyot and there are 4,600 vines per hectare. Fermentation takes place off the skins at 18 degrees C and the wines remains in stainless steel until bottled. This is a fruity wine, rich in flavor with hints of citrus. It has good acidity and minerality. It is one of the best examples of Trebbiano I ever tasted. The Trebbiano Spoletino is native to Umbria and is different from other Trebbiano grapes.

Di Filippo has been practicing organic farming since 1994 when they were first certified according to E. U. regulations.

Vernaccia di San Gimignano “ Selvabianca” La Vernaccia di Santa Chiara 2016 DOCG (Tuscany) Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara made from 100% Vernaccia di San Gimignano. The winery is located 1.5 km from San Gimignano in the direction of Volterra.

The training system is spurred cordon and the vineyard is at 350/390 meters. No pesticides are used. Hard harvesting takes place the last week of September using boxes of 15/20kg. The best bunches are chosen directly in the vineyard and immediately conveyed to the wine cellar.

After a short maceration with the skins, fermentation takes place in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. This a well-structured wine, fresh tasting wine with hints of apple and a flower scent and balanced acidity.

 

Grechetto Colli Martani (Umbria) DOC 2016 F.lli Pardi made from 100% Grechetto. The story of the winery goes back to 1919 but the present winery began in 2003 beneath the walls of Montefalco. The soil is of sedimentary and clayey origin. All the vines are spurred cord trained and there are there are 4,500 to 5,000 vines per hectare. Harvest takes place in early September.

The grapes are soft pressed and fermentation is at a constant 20 degrees C for 20 days in stainless steel tanks. The wine is aged in bottle for 2 months and released 6 months after the harvest.

 

“Le Grane” Colli (Le Marche) DOC 2016 made from 100% Ribona (aka Maceratino) Boccadigabbia. Riibona is a rare gape varietal grown only in the province of Macerata. The 23 hectares of vineyards stand on hills in two separate zones in Civitanova and Macerata.

The soil is sandy-clayey and the exposure is northeast and the training system is guyot. The grape clusters are soft crushed and fermentation lasts for about 12 days in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. After fermentation, whole slightly overripe berries are added to the wine. This second fermentation lasts for 10 days and allows an added extraction of compounds and aromatics from the skins. It is a well-structured wine with fragrances of ripe citrus fruit with a hint of melon.

This is the first time I have ever tasted a wine made from this grape. Until 1950 the estate belonged to a direct descendent of Napoleon and therefore French grapes are also planted here.

 

Lady F 2016 (Tuscany) made from 100% Orpicchio Donne Fittipaldi The grapes are hand harvested and the stalks are gently removed and then cooled to 8/10 degrees C leaving the juice in contact with the skins for 4 hours, followed by a soft pressing and cleaning of the must that is fermented in oak barrels, half and half in steel at a temperature of 16degrees C. This is a well-structured wine with hints of peach, citrus fruit and white flowers and balanced acidity. Everyone sitting at the table with me commented on how much they liked the wine. This is the first time I tasted a wine made from this grape.

One Dessert Wine 

Moscato Rosa (Alto Adige)DOC 1994 Castel Sallegg made from 100% Moscato Rosa, Kuenburg selection, indigenous variety and one of the world’s rarest grapes

The Princes of Campofranco, the ancestors of today’s owner Count George von Kuenburg, introduced this noble grape variety in 1892 when they moved from Sicily to Caldaro and Castel Sallegg.  They planted it in the warmest earth around Lake Caldaro, where it thrived.

The vineyard is at 230 meters. Soil is reddish gravel and sandstone. This warm porous soil combines with a unique microclimate on the shores of Lake Kaltern. The training system is traditional pergola. A late harvest ensures the grapes have reached a minimum sugar content of 32 degrees KMW (160 Oechsle) this is the must weight is a measure of the amount of sugar in grape juice (must), before entering mash fermentation in stainless steel tanks for 2 weeks.

The wine is aged in stainless steel tanks for 12 months and then for another 12 months in bottle before release. This is an elegant dessert wine with intense fragrances of roses, hints of ripe raspberries and other red berries and a touch of spice.