The Wines of the Oltrepò Pavese

With a multi-city tour of the U.S., the Conzorizo Tutela Vini Oltrepò Pavese was promoting the wines of the area, located in Northern Italy. The first stop was New York and I was invited to a tasting of the wines and a light lunch at The Leopard at des Artistes on 67th Street.

Carlo Veronese, director of the Consorzio Tutela Vini Oltrepò Pavese and Susannah Gold, who organized the event and is the Brand Ambassador, were the speakers. 

Carlo said that Otrepò Pavese means the other side of the Po River from Pavia, the main city of the area, which is located south of the Po in the region of Lombardy.  It borders on the regions of Emilia-Romagna and Piedmont. For a long time it was part of Piedmont. The wine making tradition here goes back the Ancient Romans. The first mention of viticulture in the Oltrepò is attributed to the writer, Strabone who lived between 60 B.C. and 20 A.D. Strabone wrote of “good wine, hospitable people and very large wooden barrels.”  Carlo described the beautiful landscape as being hilly with vineyards and picturesque villages and even some castles.

Susannah said there is more Pinot Nero produced here than in any other part of Italy. She believes that it is the best Pinot Noir in Italy and I agree with her. In the 1850’s Pinot Nero clones from Burgundy were brought into the Oltrepò Pavese. Most of the vineyards are planted on the rolling hills close to the Po River where the soil is mostly clay, limestone and sand.

Oltrepò Pavese DOCG  “Terrarosa” Metodo Classico Pinot Nero 2016. La Versa – Terre D’Oltrepò. This traditional sparkling wine is made from Pinot Noir grapes from the Val Versa valley. The wine spends at least 36 months on the lees and one month in the bottle before disgorging. The wine has hints of currants, rasperries, hazelnut, almond notes and a touch of bay leaf. This cooperative was founded in 1905 and they began producing sparkling wines in the 1930”s. Their Gran Spumante Brut produced in 1935 may have been the first traditional method Italian sparkling wine. This is  hints of strawberry, raspberry witn a touch of cherry. $35

Oltrepò Pavese DOCG Method Classico “Cruasé” 2015 Pinot Nero Rosè. Soc. Agr. Mazzolino. The vineyard is 1.25 hectares with a northeast exposure at 180 to 220 meters. The soil is limestone marl and chalk substrate and the training system is simple guyot. There are 5,500 plants per hectare. Harvest is by hand into small crates. There is a soft pressing of the grapes after 4/8 hours of maceration depending on the vintage. The wine is held in traditional vats and there is a 36 month lees maturation. The wine has hints of tangerine, red berries, floral notes and herbs. $28

Oltrepò Pavese DOC Riesling 2021 “Reis”  Conte Vistarino made from 100% Riesling from Alsatian clones. The vineyard is at 250 to 550 meters with a southwest exposure. The soil is calcareous clay. There are 5,500 plants per hectare and the training system is guyot.  Manual selection of the grapes during harvest the last week of August.  This is  followed by cold pre-maceration in boxes for 24 hours at 4C degrees and a slow maturation of the must at a low temperature. This is a complex wine with nice minerality and acidity hints of white fruit, flowers and citrus notes. $20

Bonarda Frizzante dell’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2021 “Sommossa” Castello Di Luzzano made from 100% Croatina. The winery has been in the family of Giovannella and her sister, Maria Giulio for over a century. The property straddles the border between Lombardia and Emilia-Romagna, an area known for the variety and quality of its wines, with one vineyard in the Colli Piacentini DOC and the other in the Oltrepo Pavese DOC. The estate extends over 250 acres of land, over 170 acres of which are under vine. The vineyards completely surround the estate’s buildings. The vineyards feature soil that is mostly schistous marls and calcareous marls from the Pliocene era with an underlying stratum of tufaceous rock. The grapes are destemmed and crushed and left to macerate in the fermentation tanks for 5 to 6 days at a controlled temperature with short and frequent pumping over. After the winter cold the wine is placed in a pressure tank for a second fermentation and bottled in the spring. The wine has hints of blackberries, black currents and a hint of spice. $23

 Carlo Veronese said that Croatina is the most important grape in the Oltrepò Pavese.

Oltrepò Pavese DOC Barbera IGT 2019 “Route 66”  Dino Torti made from 100% Barbera. The winery is situated in the Oltrepò Pavese hills in Lombardy. The soil is lime, marl and clay. The wine is aged in barriques. This wine has hints of red fruit, spice, savory notes and good acidity. The winery is family run and was founded in 1910. $25

Pino Nero Oltrepò Pavese DOC “Tiamat” 2020 Cordero San Giorgio.  Made from 100% Pinot Nero from the Santa Gillette vineyards with an east to southwest exposure at 150 to 200 meters. The soil in mainly clay and the average age is 30 years. Vines are guyot trained. Manual selection of grapes from the beginning of August until the end of September. The 20 hectares of Pinot Noir are subdivided into plots and vinified separately. The grapes are destemmed, but not pressed to keep grapes intact and with about 10% of the grapes whole cluster vinification begins. Cold pre-fermentation maceration is done before the alcoholic fermentation which is in stainless steel at a controlled temperature. There is a daily short pumping over. At the end of fermentation the wine is racked, and malolactic fermentation takes place in steel tanks. The wine remains in stainless steel for 6 months and then in bottle for 2 months before release. The winery is named for the legend of St. George and the Dragon and the winery is certified organic. This is a wine with hints of fresh small red fruit and best of all it tasted like Pinot Noir!  I felt that this wine is a real bargain at about $ 25

Pinot Nero Dell Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2018 “Noir”  Soc. Agr. Massolino  made from 100% Pinot Noir. The exposure is northwest and the vineyard is at 180 to 220 meters with clayey-silt soil on a surface with sandstone veins and chalky substructure. There are 5,500 vines per hectare and the training system is simple guyot. Harvest is manual. The destemmed whole fruit undergoes a pre-fermentation maceration and punching down takes place. The wine ages in Burgundy barrels of 228 liters (20% new) for 12 months. The wine has hints of raspberries, pomegranate and black cherry with good varietal character. $55

Sangue di Giuda Dell Oltrepò Pavese DOC  Az. Vitivnicola Vanzini Sas made from Croatina, Uva Rara, Barbera and other grapes  from same field. On the first hill slope of Oltrepo Pavese.  The soil is from disintegration of arenaria and calcareous rocks with a clay component. The vineyard is at 220 to 280 meter and the training system is traditional guyot and spurred cordon. Primary fermentation and maturation in steel tanks at a controlled temperature. The must obtained from the red vinification of the grapes, is filtrated and placed in steel reservoirs, where the primary fermentation begins according to the Martinotti method (the primary fermentation occurs in an enclosed environment, at reduced pressure and controlled temperature of 14-20 degrees Celsius, or 57-68 Fahrenheit) for about 15-20 days. Subsequently the resulting wine is filtrated and bottled. The wine then remains in the bottle for 25 to 30 days before release. This is a naturally sparkling (frizzante) wine with fresh aromas of fruit preserves, cherry and raspberry. The alcohol is only 7%. In many ways this may be the ideal dessert wine and at $20 it is a great bargain.

Benvenuto Brunello 2022

Benvenuto Brunello 2022 returned to NYC presented by the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino. I have attended this event for a number of years and always look forward to going.  Virginia Cademartori, head of PR and Communication for Platinum Media LLC, sent me the invitation.

This was a seated tasting and waiters brought the wines five at a time. The focus was on the 2018 vintage.  The bottles were numbered according to the winery and the letter that followed indicated the type of wine.  We filled out cards with the number and letter because some wineries were presenting more than one wine.  68 producers submitted wines and I believe there were 116 wines in all. The event was very well coordinated and we had 3 hours to taste the wines.

The speaker was Christy Canterbury, Master of Wine.

BRUNELLO

The production area for Brunello is the commune territory of Montalcino. The wine can only be produced from 100% Sangiovese (Sangiovese Grosso).  In Montalcino the grape is called Brunello.

Brunello must be aged 2 years in oak casks and 4 months in bottle, or 6 for the Riserva. Bottling must take place in the production zone. The wine is available for sale from the 1st of January of the 5th year following the harvest (6th year for the Riserva). Brunello di Montalcino can only be sold in Bordeaux-type bottles. All Brunello is DOCG.

In my experience Brunello needs to age at least 10 years before (even in a not so great a year) I would even think of drinking it. Brunello improves greatly with age. If you want to drink something “approachable” and ready to drink young, then drink a Rosso di Montalcino which is produced for this reason.

2018 was a classic vintage  for Brunello. Temperatures were mild and not as hot compared to recent years. The vintage was given 4 stars.

The Wines

Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2018 made from 100% Sangiovese.Tenuta Silvio Nardi. This Brunello is a blend of the finest grapes from the Manachiara and Castel del Bosco estates with a northwest and southeast exposure at 350 meters. The soil is a composition of jasper and shale. The grapes are hand picked and sorted and only 70% of the grapes are used to make the wine.  Fermentation and maceration takes at least 24 hours, depending on the parcel, at a controlled temperature. The wine is aged for 12 months in new and used Allier French oak barriques and then for 18 months in large Slavonian oak barrels. Then it remains in the bottle for 12 months before release. This is a full bodied wine with hints of red berries, leather, tobacco and a touch of spice.

Brunello di Montalcino 2018 Casanova di Nevi made from 100% Sangiovese. The vineyard is located south of Montalcino at 275/320 meters and the soil is galestro with tufo and clay. There are 4,000 vines per hectare. The raining system is spur-pruned cordon and the winery is organic but not certified. The wine is unfiltered and it is aged in 500-liter oak tonneau for 36 months and in bottle for 12 months before release. This is a full bodied wine with hints of blackberry, black cherry, plum and a touch of violets and a note of spice.

Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2018 Poggio Antico made from 100% Sangiovese. The vineyards are at about 480 meters with a south/southwest exposure and are among the highest in the zone. The soil is rocky and calcareous with good drainage.  A cold soak was done at 12°C for 2 days. The fermentation lasted 9 days with a peak temperature of 30°C, after which a long maceration was carried out. The wine is aged for 2½ years in large traditional Slavonian oak barrels. The wine was refined in bottle 1½ years prior to release. This is a complex Brunello with hints of cherries, cassis, leather, a touch of violet and a balsamic note. It is a wine that will last for another 20 years.

Brunello di Montalcino “La Mannella” 2018 Cortonesi made from 100% Sangiovese from the La Manella vineyards. The soil on the south side is sandy and rocky and the soil on the north side is clay with sand with good drainage. The training system is spurred cordon. There is a careful selection of the grapes and fermentation with maceration for 25 days in stainless steel tanks and Slavonian oak vats. The wine spends 36 months is large Slavonian oak casks. There are hints of red berries, blackberries, spice, leather and a touch of cedar.

Brunello di Montalcino 2018 Col D’ Orcia on the Sant’Angelo hill over looking the Orcia River facing south-south west at 300 meters. Particular clones of Sangiovese are used. Manual harvest with grape selection both in the vineyard and in the cellar. Fermentation is on the skins for about 18 to 20 days at a controlled temperature in 150 HL wide and shallow stainless steel tanks. The wine is aged for 3 years in 25-50 and 75 HL oak casks from Slavonia and Allier and 12 months in bottle before release. The wine has hints of small ripe fruit, and plum jam with toasted and vanilla notes.

Brunello di Montalcino 2018 La Gerla 2018 made from Sangiovese-Brunello biotype. The vines are 25 years old and the training system is spurred cordon. There is a manual sorting of the bunches and berries in the cellar. The bunches are destemmed and there is a soft pressing of the grapes. There is a prefermentative cryomaceration. Fermentation is at a controlled temperature. Maceration on the skins for about 15 days. Aging is for 24 to 36 months in oak barrels 50 to 100HL with 2 decantings per year. The wine is in bottle for at least 6 months before release. The wine has hints of red berries, tobacco, leather, and cinnamon and notes of violets and iris.

Brunello di Montalcino 2018 La Fiorita location Castelnuovo dell’Abate, made from 100% Sangiovese from Poggio al Sole, south exposure with tufo, clay soil at 220 meters, Plain Bossolini southeast exposure with galestro at 360 meters and Giardinello south exposure with sandy clay soil at 250 meters. 7 hectares in all. There are 7,000 plants per hectare and the training system is spurred cordon. They follow organic agriculture practices. Harvest September 28th, October 6th and October 14th. Fermentation is in Slavonian oak casks with pumping over and delestage for 20 days with selected yeast. The wine ages in French oak barrels of 26 and 37 HL for 24 months, in steel for 4 months and 18 months in bottle before release. The wine has hints of cherry, leather, raspberry, with a hint of licorice and a note of tobacco.

Brunello di Montalcino 2018 Progetto “PRIME DONNE” Donatella Cinelli Colombini located in Casato facing Montalcino made from 100% Sangiovese Grosso. The 20-year-old vines are at 225 meters with a south-southeast exposure. The soil is Pliocene (sedimentary rock) and clay. Vinification is for 15 days with pumping over and delestages. Aging is in 5 to 7 Hl barrels, French oak for the first year and the remainder of the time in 15 to 40 Hl barrels. The winery is organic certified (2018). The wine has hints of red berries, cherry, herbs, cedar and a touch of violets. Only women are involved in the production of this wine. This Brunello always shows very well and is a pleasure to drink.

Brunello di Montalcino 2018 Fattoria dei Barbi The soil is marl, alberese limestone and the vines are 15 to 20 years old and at 300 to 500 meters. The exposure is South and the training system is Cortina semplice and there are 5,000 vines per hectare. Harvest took place from September 28 to October 7th. Before fermentation the grapes were subjected to a cold fermentation maceration which consists in cooling the grapes at a temperature of 16C in an environment protected by COC. Alcoholic fermentation lasts 16/17 days at a controlled temperature. After racking and malolactic fermentation, the wine is aged in small to medium size oak barrels 2.5 to 15HL for the first months. It then spends two years in larger oak barrels and 4 months in bottle before release. The wine has hints of plum and blueberry with a touch of rhubarb and a note of spice. I have a long history with this wine and drank it for the first time over 40 years ago. The current vintage can be drunk over the next 20 years or more. 

Brunello Di Montalcino 2018 DOCG Banfi 100% Sangiovese grown on hillside vineyards at 220 meters in stony, calcareous and well structured soil. There is a meticulous grape selection (yield not exceeding 6 metric tons/ha) is followed by vinification in temperature–controlled Horizon hybrid stainless steel and wood tanks, with skin contact for 10 to 20 days. The wine ages for two years in various sizes oak barrels, 305 liter barriques, 60 and 120 hl barrels; the wine is then aged in bottle for an additional 8 to 12 months. The wine is released 5 years after the harvest. The wine has hints of  cherry, plum, violets and a note of blueberry.

Brunello di Montalcino 2018 Villa Poggio Salvi the exposure is South-West, the soil is Galestro (marl) and the vines are at 350 to 500 meters. The training system is spurred cordon and there are 5,000 plants per hectare. Harvest is by hand the first week of October. There is a pre-maceration for 8 days at a controlled temperature in steel tanks with caps pushed down with automatic hydraulic system. The wine is aged in Slavonian oak barrels of 30 to 100 liters for 30 months. The wine then remains in bottle for 4 months before release. This is a full-bodied wine with hints of red fruit, lavender and a touch of spice. This wine will age for 20 years or more.

Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018 Pian Delle Vigne Antinori. 3.5 miles south of Montalcino. There are 65 hectares under vines, and the soil is mostly clayey and calcareous with many small stones. After a careful selection both in the vineyard and cellar, the grapes are de-stemmed and delicately pressed; the must then goes into temperature controlled stainless steel tanks where it ferments and remains on its skins for a period of about 3 weeks. The wine has then completed malolactic fermentation. Aging is in 30 to 80hl oak casks for over 2 years. This is a complex wine with hints of ripe red fruit, plums, dates and a touch of violets.

Brunello di Mantalcino 2018 100% Sangiovese Grosso Corte Dei Venti. The name means Court of the Winds because the wind blows across the vineyard 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. The vineyards are located at 100 to 300 meters and the exposure is south east. The soil is rich in ferrous limestone clay with minerals. This is why the soil has a bright red color. The red soil is very rare and only a few producers in the southern part of the appellation have it. The are 5 hectare of vineyards of which 2.80 are Brunello. Harvest takes place by hand when the grapes are fully ripe. Vinification is in steel tanks with soft pumping over and delestage at a controlled temperature with maceration on the skins for about 25 days. Malolactic fermentation takes place in steel and by the natural decanting phase during winter which precedes the transfer into oak. The wine is aged for 36 months in 25HL oak barrels and 8 months in bottle before release. This is a very traditional Brunello with hints of red berries, blackberries, hazelnuts, a note of clove and a touch of tobacco.

Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2018  Franco Pacenti made from 100% Sangiovese Grosso. The vineyards are at 300 meters and the exposure is north-east. The soil is medium clay with a low density of vines per hectare, divided into six plots with an average age of 25 years.  The training system is spurred cordon. There is a strictly traditional long fermentation on the pomace with frequent pumping over the cap and the maximum temperature  rises freely to 30C. The wine ages for more than 30 months  medium to large Slavonian and French oak barrels. The wine remains in the bottle for 4 months before release. The wine has hints of cherries, mushrooms, spice, a hint of violets and a touch of herbs.

Brunello is one of the world’s greatest wines and I look forward to drinking it throughout the year.  I am already looking forward to next year’s tasting!

The White Wine of Lake Garda: LUGANA

One of me favorite places to visit in Italy is Lake Garda. Not only is the lake a beautiful place to visit, but I also enjoy drinking Lugana wines.  An invitation to Destination Lugana to be held at Scampi Restaurant in NYC seemed like the next best thing to a trip to the Lake, so I was happy to accept.  The invitation was sent by Virginia Cademartori head of PR and Communication for Platinum Media LLC.

When I arrived, Virginia explained that Destination Lugana is a full week of celebration of the area and the wine. 28 producers were offering their latest vintage to 13 restaurants and two private clubs in Manhattan. Each location would create a special menu to go with the wines. The event is made possible by the Consorzio Tutela Lugana DOC which has been promoting Lugana wines since 1990.

Fabio Zenato, President of the Consorzio  Tutela Lugana Doc, said, “After two years of pandemic we are back in the USA with a great event addressed to a wine range of different consumers that covers the whole month of November. For us, this market is one of the most important and crucial for the success of our appellation abroad.”

Lugana wines come from an area that is on the border between the two provinces of Brescia and Verona. The DOC region stretches along an area south of Lake Garda, the largest lake in Italy. The word Lugana may come from the early medieval word “lucus” meaning wood. In the past the area was covered by the Selva Lucana, a dense, marshy forest. Today the area is characterized by a very particular soil. The soil is white clay and limestone and difficult to till. This, however, gives the grapes here an extraordinary elegance and tanginess. Many agree that the best grapes come from the area close to Lake Garda which has the most clay.

Lugana wine can be described as being fresh with body and a good balance between sweetness and acidity. Lugana is made from the Turbiana grape, aka Trebbiano di Lugana, and may be related to Verdicchio.  There are 5 different styles of Lugana from sparkling to late harvest.  The wine sells at a good price around $20 to $25 a bottle. Lugana goes best with white meats or fish. Try it with sushi or turkey.  The biggest market for Lugana wines is Germany and Lake Garda is a favorite destination for them.

The Wines

Le Morette – Azienda Agricola Varicose Valerio Zenato Lugana DOC “Mandolara”  made from 100% Turbiana grapes from the La Mandolara vineyard on a narrow strip of land on the shore of Lake Garda. The training system is guyot, double and short modified and there are 3,500 plants per hectare. The soil is clayish.  Harvest is by hand in the second half of September. After a very soft crushing, vinification takes place in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks and the wine remains in the bottle for at least one month before release. This is a fresh fruity wine with hints of apple, peach  pear and a touch of bitter almonds in the finish. The name of the wine comes from a particular protected species of wild ducks which nest in Lake Frassino.  The ducks are the symbol of the farm. I visited the winery a few years ago and was very impressed with all of the wines. Fabio Zenato President of the Consorzio Tutela Lugana Doc is the owner.

Tenuta Roveglia “Limne”  100% Turbiana grapes from vines 25/35 years old grown near Lake Garda at 100 meters. The land is flat and the soil is a mix of mainly clay with some limestone and rich in mineral salts. Harvest is at the end of September by hand in small crates. Vinification is without the skins and there is a soft pressing of the grapes with extraction of a maximum of 60% free run juice. Maturation is in stainless steel tanks for 4 to 5 months. The wine is sold after 2 to 3 months in bottle. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, with a touch of pear and a note of peach.

Lugana DOC Zamichele made from 100%. Turbiana in the Brescia/Lake Garda area. Manual harvesting into small crates followed by crushing and a soft pressing. Aging is in stainless steel. This wine has hints of tropical fruit, peach and mango with good acidity. 

Ca’ Lojera Lugana DOC made from 100% Turbiana from vineyards in Sirmione. The soil is Lugana white clay and there are 4,000 plants per hectare. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature. The wine has hints of melon, grapefruit, a touch of mint and floral notes.

Le Creete Ottella Lugana DOC. Made from 100% Turbiano from estate vineyards in  San Benedetto di Lugana overlooking Lake  Garda. The soil is white chalk. There is a manual harvest when the grapes are fully mature. After a brief maceration on the skins, fermentation takes place in temperature controlled steel vats and partly in large wooden barrels. The wine has hints of pineapple, grapefruit and tropical fruit.

Tommasi Lugana DOC “La Fornaci  made from 100% Turbiana grown in the unique clay rich soil. The grapes come from two vineyards: Le Fornaci close to Lake Garda just 2 miles from Sirmione and San Martino which is further inland. Lugana Le Fornaci is obtained through a delicate grape harvest. The grape skins are left in contact with the must for one day at low temperature. Racking  takes place for natural sedimentation and there is a slow, temperature-controlled fermentation for about 7 days.  The wine spends approximately 3 months on the lees, followed by a maturation period in stainless steel tanks. The wine matures for 5 months in bottle before release. This is a crisp white wine with hints of tropical fruit,  grapefruit, spice and a note of almond.

Zeni Lugana DOC Vigne Alte made from 100% Turbbiano from the southern shore of Lake Garda. Hand selection of grape bunches that have reached optimum ripeness at harvest. Maceration is on the skins followed by a gentle pressing and must fermentation at a controlled temperature. Aging is in stainless steel vats. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, peach and pear.

Zenato San Benedetto Lugana DOC made from 100% Turbbiano from vines between Peschiera and Desenzano at the southern tip of Lake Garda at 60 to 80 meters. The soil is chalky/clay and the training system is guyot. The vines are 20/30 years old. There is a manual harvest the last ten days of September and the first ten days of October.  There is a gentle pressing of the grapes and fermentation is in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature. The wine remains in bottle for 2/3 months before release. The wine has hints of apple, peach, pineapple and a hint of vanilla

Ilaria Petitto & The Wines of Donnachiara at Il Gattopardo

I have known Ilaria Petitto, CEO of the Donnachiara Winery, for some time and have always enjoyed her wines. I also have visited the winery in Campania a few times. Recently, Il Gattopardo Restaurant hosted a tasting and lunch, and I was very pleased to attend and see Ilaria again.

Ilaria spoke about the winery. She said the winery is located in Montefalcione in the Irpinia area near Avellino. The modern winery was completed in 2005 but the vineyards have been in the family for over 150 years. Ilaria’s mother, Chiara Petitto, is a big supporter of her work in the winery, which is named after her  mother’s grandmother whom everyone called “Donna” Chiara as a sign of respect.

 The consulting oenologist for Donnachiara is the legendary Riccardo Cotarella. It is the philosophy of the winery to preserve the traditional grape varieties of the local territory and keep the typical character of the wines from being lost to standardization, like many of the wines on the market today. They also follow “Misura CE n.1257/99 – “Produzione integrata della Regione Campania,” limiting the use of some active ingredients that are harmful to the environment.

Ilaria proudly announced that she is now the Vice President of the Conosrzio di Tutela dei Vini dell’Irpinia.

THE WHITE WINES

Fiano di Avellino DOCG 2021, 100% Fiano. The soil is chalky clay and there are 4,400 plants per hectare.  The vines are guyot trained and the harvest takes place in the second half of October. There is a soft pressing of the grapes that are quickly cooled to 50F for 4 to 6 hours. Fermentation is at 57 to 60F in steel tanks for 15 days. Malolactic fermentation does not take place. This is a delicate and elegant wine with hints of pear, almonds, citrus fruit and floral. This grape variety was brought to Campania by the Ancient Greeks. The Romans called it vitis apiana – the Latin root for bees is apiana. Even today bees are attracted to the Fiano grape and Ilaria said you can see the honey bees in the vineyards in Montefalcione.

Fiano di Avellino  BIO “Empatia” 2021, 100% Fiano di Avellino  Ilaria said only the best grapes from the vineyard in Montefalcione, which is certified organic, are used for this wine.  The grapes are hand harvested the second half of October at the coolest part of the day and there is a very careful selection. The soil is chalky and the training system is guyot. Cryomaceration (crushed grapes are held at low temperature) is at 42-46F to preserve the aroma, prevent oxidation and enhance the characteristics of the grapes. There is a soft pressing of the grapes using a pneumatic press and fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks for about 14 days. Malolactic fermentation does not take place. The wine spends some time in bottle before release. This is an impressively elegant wine with hints of apple, almonds, tropical fruit and floral notes with a long finish and pleasing aftertaste.

Greco di Tufo DOCG 2020 made from 100% Greco. The soil is tuffaceous and the training system is guyot. There are 3,300 plants per hectare and the harvest takes place the second half of October. A soft pressing of selected grapes takes place and after that a cold decanting of the must in steel vats for 15 days. Fermentation is at 57 to 60F. Malolactic fermentation does not take place. This is an elegant wine with good structure with hints of pear, apricot, citrus and a touch of pineapple.

Greco di Tufo “Aletheia” 2020, DOCG 100% Greco di Tufo  Only the best grapes from the Santa Paolina vineyard in the Tufa zone are used. The harvest is by hand during the coolest parts of the day, the second half of October. The soil is tuffaceous and the training system is guyot. Cryomaceration is at 42-46F to preserve the aroma, prevent oxidation and enhance the characteristics of the grapes. There is a soft pressing of the grapes using a pneumatic press and fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks for about 15 days. The fermented must is left to age on the lees for about a year with weekly batonnage. Malolactic fermentation does not take place. The wine remains in the bottle for a period of time before release. This is an intense wine with hints of citrus fruit, pear, apricot and a hint of hazelnuts and pineapple.

It was interesting to taste the Fiano and the Fiano Empatia side by side. You can tell the two apart because the Empatia has more body and a greater depth of aromas and flavors. Both are wines that will age very well and I have had Fiano and that has been 20 years old and still drinking very well. I can say the same thing for the Greco and the Greco Aletheia.

With the white wines we had Cavatelli di Grano Antico “Senatore Cappelli” con fagioli Spollichini e Cozze, cavatelli pasta made with high protein flour, fresh beans and mussels. All four the wines were a great combination with this dish.

Even though we did not have the Falanghina at this event, I must mention that Donnachiara’s is one of the best that it has been my pleasure to drink!

THE RED WINES

Irpinia Aglianico DOC 2020, 100% Aglianico. The soil is clay, the training system is guyot and the harvest takes place the first  week in November. Fermentation takes place at 68 to 71 F in stainless steel tanks for 15 days. Maturation is on the skins for 10 days. Malolactic fermentation is in barriques. The wine is full and complex with hints of prune, blueberries and a note of spice.

Taurasi DOCG 2018.   The soil is clay and the training system is guyot. There are 4,000 plants per hectare and harvest takes place the first week of November. The wine is aged for 12 months in 225-liter French barriques and remains in the bottle for another 24 months before release. The wine has hints of blackberry, plum, cherry and a touch of cacao. The use of barrique is subtle and did not mask the character of the wine. Taurasi is a wine that can age for many years and I have had Taurasi the has been over 40 years old that was a pleasure to drink.

With the red wine we had Tacchino del “Ringraziamento” ripeno di Castagne e Salsiccia con friatielli saltati in padella, Thanksgiving turkey stuffed with chestnuts and sausage with sauteed broccoli rabe.

Both the Aglianico and the Taurasi paired well with the turkey and the stuffing. Both had enough fruit and body to go along with  a traditional turkey dinner with all the trimmings.

The wines range in price from $20 to $36 and are a fantastic bargain.

The event was organized by Susannah Gold of Vigneto Communication.  Susannah is a true professional.

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, a Great Italian Red Wine

The “Simply Italian Great Wines US Tour” came to NYC and I attended.

There were 4 very interesting seminars, one after another, so you could attend all of them. In order to accommodate all the people that responded, we were divided into two groups, A&B. It was a difficult choice but I went with group B. After the seminars there was a Grand Tasting. The event was organized by Marina Nedic, Executive Director of I.E.E.M. (International Event and Exhibition Management). I have been to a number of events organized by them and they always do a wonderful job.

One of the seminars I attended was  Montepulciano D’Abruzzo, a Great Italian Red Wine. I have visited Abruzzo a number of times, and in June I was there on a press trip, so I was looking forward to the seminar.

Davide Acerra

The speakers were Davide Acerra, present of the Concordia Tutela d’Abruzzo and Joe Campanale, restaurateur and author of “Vino: The Essential Guide to Real Italian wine”

I first met Davide on a press trip a few years ago and again on the press trip in June as well as in NYC.  I have known Joe for a number of years through the wine trade. 

The Abruzzo Region of Italy, located to the east of Rome has everything going for it. There are beautiful national parks, a long coastline on the Adriatic, the rugged snowcapped Apennine Mountains, and little medieval towns perched precariously on hill tops. Abruzzo is situated between the Adriatic Sea and the Gran Sasso and Majella massif. It is one of the most unspoiled regions of Italy with three national parks and more than ten national and regional natural reserves. Geographically, Abruzzo is more central than southern Italy, but due to its connection with the old Kingdom of the Two Sicilies, it is considered part of the South.

Most vineyards are in hilly areas of which 75% are in the province of Chieti.

The traditional vine training method is the Tendone system also known as Pergola Abruzzese.  The Montepulciano grape produces Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Montepulciano is the most planted grape in Abruzzo and is grown on about 17,000 hectares. It represents 80% of the total DOC wine produced in Abruzzo. The Montepulciano grape has been in Abruzzo since the mid 17th Century.

The wines

Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC “Parcella” 2021 Cantina Colonnella. The exposure is south/southeast. The training system is cordone speronato and Pergola Abruzzese with the same yields. There are 3,000 vines per hectare The soil is mainly clayey and well drained. Manual harvest from the end of September to the middle of October. Fermentation is in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. The wine spends 10 months in large oak barrels (botti) of 50HL and four months in bottle before release. This is a full bodied red wine with rich ripe fruit and hints of plums, black cherry, notes of rosemary and a touch of pepper.

Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC 2021 Gennaro Pigliacampo. The grapes are harvested by hand in the middle of October, immediately destemmed, pressed and left to ferment in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature for about four months where spontaneous malolactic fermentation takes place.  Aging: 4 months in steel, 12 months in second passage barriques or tonneaux and 3 months in bottle before release. This is a very fruity wine with hints of blackberry jam, blueberries, rasperries and a note of licorice.

Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC “Vere Novo”2020 Cantina Mazzarosa. The vineyard is located in Roseto degli Abruzzo is at 100 meters and the exposure is south/southwest. The grapes are hand picked from the best selection in the vineyard. Fermentation and maceration takes place in stainless steel tanks with the inclusion of about 30% whole bunches with gentle pumping over and delestage. Retention on the lees and maturation in stainless steel for about 12 months. The wine remains in the bottle for 6 months before release. The wine had hints of cherry and cherry jam and herbaceous notes.

Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC “Riserva 2019 Fosso Corno Harvest takes place from the end of September to the middle of October and for the Reserve only the best grapes are chosen. After a 14 day fermentation in steel vats, the wine is transferred to oak barrels of 15 HL for 12 months and then back to steel vats for another 12 months. The wine is in bottle for 2 to 4 months before release. This is a full Riserva with hints of black cherry, black plums, spice and balsamic notes. 

Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC “Constantini” Poderi Antonio Constantini. The soil is mostly limestone clays. Manual harvest. Grapes are crushed and destemmed  and fermentation takes place on the skins for about 7 days. The wine ages in large Slavonian oak barrels and a small percentage is in French oak tonneaux. The wine remains in bottle for 6 months before release. This wine has hints of black cherry, blackberry, licorice, a hint of tobacco and a note of vanilla. 

Montepuliciano D’AbruzzoDOC “Capo Le Vigne” 2017 Famiglia Di Carlo-Vigna Madre. Vineyard exposure is south/southeast at 250 meters. The training system is Pergola Abruzzese (1,800 vines per hectare) condone speronato (4,000 vines per hectare). Harvest is in August/September. There is long maceration on the skins is stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature. Aging: 12 months in steel, 12 months in French barriques and 12 months in battle before release. The wine has hints of red fruit, black cherry, leather with with a hint of leather and a note of cinnamon.

Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Riserva Enisio 2017 Tocco. The vineyard is at 350 meters and the exposure is south/southeast. The grapes are hand picked from October 25th to November 5th. After a careful selection, the grapes are picked from their stems and squeezed. The skins are left in contact with the wine must which contains its own wild yeast for about 18 days at a constant temperature. Aging is in barriques for 12 months and 12 months in bottle before release. The wine has hints of red fruit, cherry and licorice. 

Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC “Pepe Rosso” 2008 Stefania Pepe Agricola Bio Vitivinicola. The vineyards are in Torano Nuovo with a southwest exposure and the soil is clay-calcareous. They are at 250 meters, 15 km from the Adriatic Sea and 60 km from the Grand Sasso, the highest mountain in the Apennine Mountains. During the period of the full moon the grapes are harvested and destemmed by hand. Fermentation is in small concrete vats, keeping the temperature low, with 6-13 days of skin maceration. No additives are added, not even sulfites. The wine remains in concrete vats and is bottled by hand from a gravitational flow. Filtration does not take place and the wine is aged in bottle until it is ready to be released. This is a complex  wine with hints of red ripe fruit, blackberry, prunes, cherry with a touch of nuts and a note of black pepper. This was the oldest wine and the only one that was almost ready to drink. I have known Stefania for a long time and always enjoy her company and her wines.

Davide and Joe made the point that many winemakers in Abruzzo are going back to more traditional methods both in the vineyard and in the cellar. In the vineyard they are going back to the Tendone system also known as Pergola Abruzzese, where the leaves cover the grapes, especially now with global warming. In the cellar they are using more tradition aging methods such as concrete.