Monthly Archives: June 2023

The Innovative White Wines of DI MEO

June has been a very busy month for Italian wine events in NYC. One of the events I attended was a masterclass entitled “A Journey through Le Tenute del Leone Alato,” a presentation of different wine estates represented by Leone Alata Wine & Spirits.  The class was preceded by a tasting of the wines they import. One of the wineries was Di Meo in Campania which I visited on a press trip to Campania organized by Campania Stories in 2016.  I have always enjoyed the wines.

The Di Meo Winery

In the early 1980’s Erminia, Generoso and Roberto Di Meo acquired this historical estate from their parents Vittorio and Alessandro. The estate is located in the province of Avellino in the area of Salza Irpinia and covers 25 hectares most of which is vineyards. In 1986 they produced their first wines and the Di Meo winery was born. Their goal was to produce wine from the native grapes of the area such as Fiano, Greco, Coda di Volpe, Aglianico and Falinghina.

img_0025DI maoTasting wine with Roberto at the winery

Today the company is run by Roberto who is the oenologist, wine maker and sales manager.

The White WinesIMG_9609Campania Falanghina IGT made from 100% Falanghina from Guardia Sanframondi (BN) at 500 meters. The vines were planted in 2005. The exposure is south/east and the soil is clayey. There are 4,000 plants per hectare and the training system is espalier with mono lateral guyot pruning.  Manual harvest of select bunches in 15 kg baskets tales place the first week of October.  Cryomaceration followed by a soft pressing of the grapes. Fermentation is at a controlled temperature in stainless steel for about 3 months and 3 months in bottle before release. The wine has hints of apple, litchi, dried fruit and thyme with a flowery note.  $$25.99

IMG_9610Fiano di Avellino DOCG made from 100% Fiano from Salza Irpinia at 520 meters. The vines were planted in 2003. Soil is mainly clay, the exposure is north/east and there are 5,000 plants per hectare. Training system is espalier with mono lateral guyot pruning. Manual harvest of select bunches in 15 kg baskets  the first week of October.  Cryomaceration  is followed by a soft pressing of the grapes.  Fermentation is at a controlled temperature in stainless steel for about 3 months and 3 months in bottle before release. This is a well balanced elegant wine with fruity scents, mainly peach, litchi and citrus with a slight mineral note. $31.99

IMG_9612Fiano di Avellino “Alessandra” 2013 made from 100% Fiano The wine is named after the mother of the Di Meo brothers. Produced from  Fiano vineyards surrounding the Salza Irpinia winery. The Vigna Alessandra was planted in 1995 and is at 550 meters. Soil composition is clay and semi-limestone and the exposure is northeast. There are 4,500 plants per hectare and the training system is espalier with monolateral guyot pruning. Manual harvest takes place the second week of October. There is a soft pressing of the grapes, then maceration with the skins. Fermentation is at a controlled temperature. The wine remains in stainless steel for 8 years and then for 12 months in bottle before release. This is an elegant wine with flowery notes of mimosa, chamomile acacia honey and a touch of smoke.

IMG_9611Greco di Tufo DOCG Made from 100% Greco from Santa Paolina and Tufo (AV) at 480 meters. The vines were planted in 2017.  The composition of the soil varies considerably, but mainly it is clay and limestone. Exposure in north/west and there are 4,000 vines per hectare. The training system is espalier with mono lateral guyot pruning. Manual harvest takes place the second week of October. There is a soft pressing of the grapes, then maceration with the skins. Fermentation is at a controlled temperature. The wine remains in stainless steel for 8 years and then for 12 months in bottle before release.  This is a fruit forward  wine with delicate aromas of orange blossoms, cedar, lime and a hint of exotic fruits. $31.99

IMG_9613Greco di Tuffo “Vittorio”  2008 100% Greco from Montefusco (AV) at 750 meters.  This wine bears the name of Erminia’s father, Generoso and Roberto Di Meo  and the latter’s son.  The vines were planted in 1998 and the soil is clay and limestone with steep slopes on a gradient greater than 20% with a north/east exposure. There are 3,500 plants per hectare and the training system is espalier with guyot pruning. Harvest is the second  week of October. From slightly over ripe grapes. There is maceration on the skins followed by fermentation  at a controlled temperature for 12 years, then 24 months in bottle before release. This is a wine with hints of beeswax, honey, cedar, apple, a touch of flint and slate with good acidity and minerality. The producer refers to the wine as warm and enchanting and I have to agree. $106.99.

From long experience I know that Fiano di Avellino and Greco di Tufo can age for 15 years or more before they reach their peak. The Di Meo Winery’s project to age them at the winery is admirable and should be applauded.  What could be better? These wines have been praised by many different publications and have won a number of awards.

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The Joy of Moscato D’Asti

Recently, I was able to taste five outstanding examples of Moscato D’Asti, a wine I have always enjoyed.

IMG_9667The event was organized by the Consorzio Asti DOCG  and Marina Nedic from I.E.E.M. (International Event & Exhibition Management).  It was held at Il Gattopardo Ristorante.

The moderator was Cha Mc Coy and the panel consisted of Giacomo Pondini, Director of the Consorzio Asti DOCG, as well as representatives from the wineries: Luigi Coppa  of Coppa, Stefano Chiarlo of Michele Chiarlo, Marco Dogliotti of La Caudrina, Gianpiero Scavino of Vignaioli Santo, Stefano Ceretto of Ceretto and Andrea Costa of Marenco.

The Consorzio Asti DOCG was founded in 1932 and works for the protection, enhancement and promotion of the wines. Thanks to the effort of the producers and the Consorzio,  Asti received the DOC in 1967 and the DOCG in 1993.   UNESCO recognized the vineyard landscape of Langhe-Roero and Monferrato as World Heritage Sites, thus protecting 5 distinct wine growing areas. There are 6,800 producers with 9,900 hectares of vineyards.  Production has reached 60 million bottles of Asti Spumante and 42 million of Moscato d’Asti, all under the guidance of the Consorzio. Over 90% of the production is exported. Moscato D’Asti and Asti Spumante share the same DOCG.

IMG_9719Moscato d’Asti DOCG comes from Moscato Bianco (Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains) strain of grapes.  It is one of the oldest known varieties of wine grapes and grows in the Piedmont regions of Langhe-Roero and Monferrato. The zone is between the Ligurian Coast and the Alps.

Moscato d’Asti is only slightly sparkling (frizzante).  It is vintage dated and should be drunk as close to the vintage date as possible. It is low in alcohol around 5% by volume.

moscatoMoscato d’Asti: there is a gentle pressing of the grape bunches by a pneumatic press. The must is clarified in order to eliminate all the solid residue and any other undesired components it may contain. Alcoholic fermentation takes place through the addition of select yeasts at a controlled temperature.  The limpid and cooled must is poured into large tanks and repeatedly filtered to prevent spontaneous fermentation. Moscato d’Asti does not go through a second fermentation in the bottle.  Instead, the second fermentation is performed in a single tank (autoclave) using the Martinotti method, in which bubbles are trapped in the wine via carbonation in the tank. Yeasts are eliminated by filtration or centrifugation. The wine is then kept in cooling tanks at about -3C so that fermentation does not start.  At the time of bottling, the temperature is raised until fermentation begins.  It is stopped at about 5% alcohol. Fermentation can be stopped and then started so that the wine can be bottled several times a year. This aromatic wine should be enjoyed young when it is at its freshest.

Moscato d’Asti is a wine that can be enjoyed on its own and any time of the day or night. It can be drunk before, during or after dinner with or without dessert. It is great with brunch also because of the low alcohol.  It can go with biscotti and other pastries, or poured over fresh fruit. Recently a noted wine and food writer wrote that he liked it with oysters.

IMG_9672Moscato D’Asti “Moncalvina”  2022 Coppo. The vineyards are in CanelliThe wine is made from 100% Moscato Bianco di Canelli. The soil is calcareous marl and the vineyard is at 250 meters. A soft pressing is followed by a slow fermentation in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature until the alcohol content reaches 5%. During this process, part of the of the carbon dioxide produced by the fermentation is captured by the wine giving it a natural light fizziness. The wine has floral notes with hints of peach and pear. Residual sugars 127.51 g/l.

208987Moscato D’ Asti “Nivole” DOCG 2022 Michele Chiarlo The vineyards are in the historical area most suited for Moscato Bianco. The soil is of sedimentary marine origin, white and sandy. Training system is guyot and the exposure is south-east/southwest. Manual harvest. There is a soft pressing of the entire grape and the must is stored in a tank at 2C followed by a slow fermentation in an autoclave at a controlled temperature until a 5% alcohol level is achieved. During this process, a part of the carbon dioxide developed during fermentation remains entrapped, giving the wine its mild, natural effervescence. Before bottling, the wine undergoes a process of microfiltration to give the wine its clarity, purity, and to stop and further fermentation of the yeasts. It is creamy with hints of subtle tropical fruit, peach and apricot with a very pleasing finish and long aftertaste. Residual sugar 120 g/l.

IMG_9673Moscato D’Asti “La Caudrina” 2022 Azienda Agricola Caudrina The vineyards are located in Castiglione Tinella at 280 meters. The soil is marl-limestone and the exposure is south/southwest. Harvest is by hand. The grapes are  pressed softly followed by clarifying and filtering the must. The grape juice remains in refrigerated tanks at -2C until it is time for the temperature controlled fermentation, which takes place in an autoclave with selected yeasts to obtain a lively wine. The wine has hints of white flowers  and a fruity bouquet with hints of apricot and peach with a touch of orange blossoms and a note of honeysuckle. Residual sugar is 130g/l.

IMG_9674 2Moscato d”Asti “Vignaioli” Di Santo Stefano” 2022 Ceretto The vineyards are in Santo Stefano, Belbo, and Calosso at 300/350 meters. The soil is whitish loose marl composed of clay, sand and silt. Soft pressing of the grapes is followed by a separation of the must. Following decantion it is kept in the cold to stabilize the fragrances. Fermentation is in temperature controlled pressurized stainless steel tanks until the alcohol level reaches 5%. This is when the perlage (fizz) typical of Moscato is produced. Then the wine is filtered and bottle. The wine has hints of orange blossom, jasmine and honeysuckle.  Organic and biodynamic. Residual sugar 130g/l.

IMG_9676Moscato D’Asti  “Scrapona”  2022 Marenco Vini.   The vineyards are in Bagnari Valley and Strevi at 320 meters and the soil is calcareous marl. The grapes are selected and manually harvested at the beginning of September. They are then softly pressed and naturally clarified. Fermentation is in pressurized vats and is interrupted through filtration when a 5% alcohol content and a delicate perlage is reached. The wine has hints of orange blossoms, lime, apricot and tropical fruit. Residual sugar 120 g/l  The wine is Organic.

Moscato D’Asti is very well priced at at $20 or less

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Hello Grappa

I enjoy Grappa all year round. I often drink it after a meal to help me to digest. Sometimes I put a little in my espresso for what the Italians call “caffe corretto.” I like to drizzle Grappa on my lemon granita and other fruit ices, and I pour a little in fruit salad. Michele also cooks with Grappa, especially in desserts made with chocolate.

helloI have visited Grappa distilleries in Italy on my own and on press trips organized by “Hello Grappa”  because I am passionate about Grappa and always want to know more about it.

When I was invited to a Grappa tasting at Eataly on 5th Ave. in NYC I was happy to accept.  The “Hello Grappa” morning workshop was organized by Balzac Communications. It was a walk around tasting of Grappa from various distilleries in different parts of Italy. There was a short presentation.

Grappa was first called acqua vita, water of life. At one time, it was only a beverage imbibed by farm workers in Northern Italy, especially in the cold months.  It was thought to give them energy before they went into the fields to work and it was a morning drink taken between the hours of 8:00 AM and 10:00 AM. Southern Italy does not have a tradition of Grappa because the weather there is too warm. It is only recently, with the popularity and often-high prices that Grappa has achieved, that wineries in Southern Italy have utilized their grape pomace (vinaccia in Italian) to make Grappa.

Up until about 25 years ago all Grappa was what I call traditional, that is, made without being aged in wood. It was clear in color and the flavor reflected the grapes from which it was made.

Grappa made from white grapes has more aromas and is easier to drink than grappa made from red grapes, although grappa made from red grapes has more taste. If you are going to introduce grappa to someone for the first time it is better to choose a Grappa made from white grapes.

Single grape varieties (monovarietal) are produced with pomace from one type of grape. Pomace is the skins left after the first squeezing of the grapes.  The grape variety can be on the label if at least 85% of the pomace comes from the same grape.

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Pomace waiting to be made into Grappa

Many Grappas are produced using pomace from several varieties of grape. If each variety exceeds 15% they must be listed on the label in ascending order.

At a distillery there are 100 days of work, 24/7 from September to December. The freshest selected pomace is distilled each day. The distillation takes place in alembics using the traditional discontinuous bain marie system (steam distillation). The first part of the production called the “head” tastes bad because it contains too much methane (it is said to resemble nail polish) and is therefore discarded. The last part is called the “tail” and contains too many impurities and is also discarded. The discontinuous method produces small amounts of high quality Grappa.

AMBThe alembics are handmade out of copper and are excellent conductors of heat. The particular fragrances and aromas of the pomace (a solid raw material made from grape skins) are enhanced to their maximum in order to keep everything uniform. Today almost all distilleries are computerized.

The continuous process of Grappa production in giant stills produces large amounts of Grappa. This type of production produces commercial grappa that is not of a very good quality.

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Grappa Anfora aged in Terracotta.

Amphorae made from a blend of different types of clay from the Tuscan towns of Montelupo and Impruneta are also used for aging some of the grappa. This type of aging achieves the micro-oxygenation which is twice what you would find using barrels.

After distillation the traditional (clear) Grappa is left alone in steel or glass containers. The Grappa that is to be aged is placed in barrels of different sizes ranging from 225 liter barriques to 1,500 liter barrels, and even larger. If aged for 12 months, the Grappa is called “aged,” and if aged for 18 months, it is called “reserve.” These aged Grappas take on different shades of colors from straw yellow to amber. They are smoother than traditional Grappa but are much more expensive. Grappa can be aged in wooden barrels of oak, cherry and acacia, or stainless steel and amphorae. Some of the oak barrels used once held port.

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Marolo Grappa & Camomile This is a wonderful combination for sipping on its own and for a cold or sore throat in tea.

Grappa can be infused (steeped) with herbal plants such as ruta (rue), which includes a twig in the bottle, grappa camomilla (chamomile), and fruits, such as grappa di mele (apple), grappa di lamponi (raspberry) to name just a few.

Grappa aging is subject to strict control by Italian customs authorities. Inspectors regularly visit the distillery and put seals on the Grappa that has not been bottled to prevent anything being added to the Grappa.IMG_9666

There are 45 distilleries that produce grappa in Italy. According to Italian law, an Italian wine producer cannot make Grappa, but must send it to a licensed distillery. For example, a producer like Banfi will send their pomace to the Bonollo distillery in Siena and tell them what type of Grappa they want, traditional (clear), or aged (in barrels) and the alcohol content they want for their Grappa.

The GrappaIMG_9636

CiVidina  Grappa di Vitigni Artigiana Bepi Tosolini (Fruli-Venezia Giulia) Non-aged, non-vintage, crystal clear. The Grappa is steam distilled in traditional copper stills from the pomace of a mixture of different Friulian grape varieties. It is a clear and fruity full-bodied balanced grappa with hints of citrus, pepper, spice, almonds and floral notes. Perfect for sipping after a meal. $38

IMG_9657Lisa Tosolini, the granddaughter of the owner, was at the tasting

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Lisa at the winery speaking about Grappa

I  first met Lisa when I visited the winery a  a few years ago and tasted their “Grappa Smoked.”  This Grappa is distilled by the traditional method with a bain marie pot still.  It is made from Friulian red grape skins and then aged in French oak barriques. The oak casks have gone through a toasting process with Kentucky tobacco leaves. This is a dry and intense  smoked Grappa which tasted like an aged single malt whiskey. This was a first for me and another new twist to what is being done with Grappa.

IMG_9639Poli Distillerie (Veneto) Grappa Cleopatra Moscato Oro Made from Moscato Fior d’Arancio and Moscato Bianco grapes from the Colli Euganei. Distilled with the innovative bain-marie (double boiler vacuum still). Aged for a brief period in oak barrels in the underground cellars of the distillery. It has hints of fresh fruit, honey, citrus and floral notes. According to the producer, the Poli Crysopea is an innovative bain-marie vacuum still equipped with a column without distillation plates. Poli was established in 1898.

IMG_9637La Corte Distilleria Franciacorta (Lombardy) Traditional steam distillation of fresh Franciacorta Marc. This is a clear unaged Grappa with floral notes and a touch of citrus and red fruit.

IMG_9638Grappa Italiana Caffo Unaged grappa produced at Caffo Distilleria in Udine. Made from 95% Magliocco and Gaglioppo grapes and 5% Pinot Grigio. Distilled twice in a bain-marie style alembic pot-the skins are steam distilled. It has floral notes, underripe tropical fruit, pear a hint of toasted rice and a touch of fresh cream.

IMG_9640Grappa di Barolo Riserva  Mazzetti D’Altavilla made from 100% Nebbiolo. After distillation the Grappa is stored in oak barrels for 2 to 5 years in order to change its original sensory profile. It has hints of dry and is pleasantly tannic with hints of spicy licorice, tobacco, vanilla and leather toasted notes.

IMG_9641 Grappino Bertagnolli Trentino-Alto Adige. The pomace is a blend of 80% Teroldego and 20% Chardonnay. When the pomace reaches the distillery it is already fermented and immediately distilled. The distillery utilizes six steam-fired stills to implement the continuous “waterbath” method which allows Bertagnolli to distill just once while still achieving a smooth and velvety grappa. It is a clear Grappa, aromatic with hints of red fruit. $30

IMG_9646Distilleria Marzadro Diciotto Luna Marzadro (Trentino-Alto Adige) made from Marzemino, Teroldego, Merlot, Moscato and Chardonnay.  Traditional distillation in pot stills and aged in small wooden barrels of cherry, ash, oak and Robinia. The aging time follows the rhythms of nature, from moon to moon over 18 months. It is amber in color with hints of cherry, raisins, tobacco and a touch of vanilla. $38

IMG_9641 2Delta Distilleria Grappa di Chianti (Tuscany) Clear grappa made from Sangiovese, Cabernet, Merlot and Canaiolo. Traditional distillation. Clear, balanced Grappa with floral notes and red fruit $40

IMG_9642 2Distillerie Bonollo (Tuscany) Consenso Grappa Chianti Classico Riserva aged in rovere (oak), acacia, frassino (ash) and ciliegio (cherry).  The grappa is light in color for one aged in wood. It was balanced with hints of red fruit.  Bonollo, like other distilleries, have plants in different parts pf Italy

IMG_9645Grappa Gra’it Bonolo This is a clear grappa aged in large Slavonian oak casks with just a hint of the wood. It was especially made for mixed drinks and is a “lighter style” Grappa. It is made from the skins of seven different grapes: Prosecco (Glera), Moscato d’Asti, Nebbiolo (Barolo), Nero d’Avola,

fullsizeoutput_28cecastaCastagner Grappa Casta. Friuli-Venezia Giulia This grappa is made from 85% Glera grapes, which are white grapes used to make Prosecco. It is 40 proof. The Grappa is distilled 5 times to insure purity and is specially formulated for cocktails.

There are over 4,000 Grappa labels on the market today.

Sometimes the Grappa we buy in the US does not taste the same as the ones we drink in Italy even if the labels are the same. Many Grappas imported to the US are “made for the American market” and are much lighter and smoother in style than the ones available in Italy.

I finished the tasting with the following Grappa cocktail.

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Varvaglione Del 1921-Good Wines, Good Price

The first time I tasted the wines of Varvaglione Dal 1921 was at a Radici Del Sud tasting in Puglia a number of years ago and liked the wines. Over the years I received samples from the winery and I included them in blogs I wrote on wines under $20. The last samples I received were in 2019 and the wines I tasted then were priced at $15 a bottle — a real bargain.

IMG_9556When I received an invitation from Noemi Mengo of Colangelo & Partners to attend a tasting of their wines at Back Barn Restaurant in NYC I was happy to accept.  I looked forward to trying the current vintages.

What made it even more interesting was the speaker, Marzia Varvaglione, the daughter of the owners and the marketing director.

IMG_9558Marzia is a charming, interesting speaker and was happy to share her information about the winery.

The winery is located in Leporano on the Gulf of Taranto in the Salento region of Puglia. They have 150 hectares of vineyards and contracts with grape growers who have been with them for over 30 years. Marzia said that the soil is mostly clay which makes it ideal for growing grapes.  Cosimo and Maria Teresa Varvaglione, her parents, are the owners of the winery and Cosimo is also the winemaker.  Marzia is the fourth generation of her family in the wine business and Varvaglione is the largest family-run winery in Puglia. She said their philosophy is combining new technology with old traditions.

The Wines

IMG_955212 e Mezzo Chardonnay Biologico Puglia IGP 2022 made from Chardonnay and Malvasia Bianca. The grapes are hand harvest when they are fully ripe. There is a careful selection of the grapes in the winery followed by a soft pressing of the grapes. Fermentation is in stainless steel at a controlled temperature. The wine remains in stainless steel for a time before being bottled. This is a light to medium bodied white wine with hint of citrus fruit, lemon, apricot a note of lavender and good acidity. $20  Marzia said the name means “12 and a half,” for the wines’ 12.5 percent alcohol by volume and the grapes are from young vines.

IMG_954812 e Mezzo Primitivo Biologico Puglia IGP 2021 made from 100% Primitivo from young vines. Fermentation and maceration take place in stainless steel at a controlled temperature for 15/20 days.  After malolactic fermentation the wine spends a brief time in stainless steel before being bottled. This is a balanced, easy drinking wine with hints of currants, violets, blackberries, nutmeg and a touch of blackberries.   $18

Marzia said Primitivo ripens early and the grapes are the first to be picked.

IMG_9549Susumaniello Puglia IGP 2023 made fron 100% Susumaniello. There is a short maceration prior to  fermentation of de-stemmed grapes at a controlled temperature to extract characteristic aromas. Fermentation is for 15 days at a controlled temperature. The wine is then separated from the skins to start malolactic fermentation. Aging is for six months in large barrels. The wine has soft tannins with hints of red cherry, plum, blueberry, a touch of spice and a balsamic note.

Marzia said Susumaniello means “little donkey” in Puglian dialect because the vines at harvest time appear to almost struggle under the weight of so many grape clusters. Marzia said the traditional high yields can be a problem if left unchecked. However, when abundant yields began to decrease, the grapes reveal outstanding qualities, making wines with great structure, elegance and aromas.  A really delightful wine that I drank with lunch. $16. They also make a rose.

IMG_9550Papale Linea Oro Primitivo di Manduria DOP made from 100% Primitivo di Manduria.  Vinification and maceration takes place at a controlled temperature. After malolactic fermentation the wine is aged in French barrels and American barriques for at least 10 months. This is a round and smooth wine with hints of black plum, fruit jam, spice and red fruits of the woods. It would pair well with red meat and game. This is a wine that will age. $30.

Marzia said that because of the heat, the vines are Alberello-trained (small bushes) so that they develop deep roots to reach the water.

All of the Varvaglione wines that I tasted were very good wines that are available at a great price.

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The World Wine Guys on White Wine

IMG_9536Mike De Simone and Jeff Jenssen, known as The Wine Guys, have written a new book entitled White Wine: The Comprehensive Guide to the 50 Essential Varieties & Styles.  The award-winning duo introduced their book at an event hosted by Pinot Grigio Della Venezia.  Regine T Rousseau, the brand ambassador for Pinot Grigio Della Venezia and a very close friend of Mike and Jeff, was the moderator.

IMG_9497 2The event was made possible by the Consorzio Tutela della Venezia DOC Pinot Grigio. Venezia Pinot Grigio is the second largest DOC in Italy. The Director of the Consorzio, Flavio Innocenzi,  spoke about the wines of Pinot Grigio DOC Venezia and how the Consorzio was very happy to support Mike and Jeff’s new book. He announced that after the talk there would be a tasting of 127 wines from Pinot Grigio Venezia.

IMG_9560 2The tasting included some examples of the new Rosè Pinot Grigio, a wine I had not tasted before.

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Jeff Jenssen and Mike De Simone

I have known Mike and Jeff for a number of years and on occasion I have enjoyed drinking a bottle of wine or two with them. Their books have won a number of awards and I was very interested in hearing their talk.

They told us that after writing their award-winning book on red wine, they felt the next step was to write a book on white wine. However they were in for a surprise when they went to their publisher. He did not want a book on white wine. He felt that the more serious wine drinkers do not drink white wine and he  did not think the book would sell.

Mike and Jeff disagreed. They felt that white wine has grown in popularity in recent years. Many people are eating lighter and white wine tends to match lighter food better. Younger drinkers are gravitating toward lower-alcohol wines as well, a category into which many white wines easily fall. There are also many high quality white wines like White Burgundy, German Riesling, Tokaji Azsù, Condrieu and Champagne. They wanted to write a book for anyone, amateur or professional, who is interested in wine.  Fortunately, they were able to find a new publisher who agreed with them and so the book was published.

Unlike many wine books that start with geography, the authors tell the story of white wine through the grapes and styles themselves.  Every book has space constraints, so they chose the 50 white grapes (in alphabetical order) which they believed to be the most popular and available at a local wine store.

moscatoThe second portion of the book covers “Styles and Blends,” such as Bordeaux, Marsala and Prosecco.

The same white grapes varieties are grown in many countries but they listed the grapes by country of origin. There was one exception — Pinot Gris — whose country of origin is France. They listed it as Pinot Grigio because they feel that the Italian name is much more popular.

In answer to a question from the audience, the authors said they tasted the wines blind.  All of the wines were in the same price range. The book features a price guide:  Bargain up to $20, Value $21 to $40, Special Occasion $41 to $90 and Splurge up to $100.

Mike and Jeff’s new book is a valuable tool and reference source for anyone interested in white wine.  It’s the perfect companion to red wine book, Red Wine:  The Comprehensive Guide to the 50 Essential Varieties and Styles, co-authored with Kevin Zraly.

I am looking forward to the next book from the Wine Guys.

IMG_9499A last salute as we felt to try and taste the 127 wines with Mike, Jeff, Flavio Innocenzi , Marina Nedic of IMME who organized the event and Regina T Rousseau.

Someone asked how do they choose the producers they listed in the book. Their first choice was the producers who’s wines they liked the best.

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Destination Lugana NYC 2023

Destination Lugana is back in NYC this June from Monday the 12th until Thursday the 22nd.

Lugana — the captivating native white wine from Lake Garda

img_8526luganaThis year there will be a two week celebration of the area, during which 19 wine producers will offer their latest vintages at 6 restaurants and private clubs in Manhattan. These will be reservation-only dinners with special menus to go with Lugana wines. All of this is made possible by the Consorzio Tutela Lugana DOC which has been monitoring, defending, and promoting Lugana DOC wines since 1990. This year, like last year, I was invited by Virginia Cademartori head of PR and Communication for Platinum Media LLC.

Here is the list of the 6 restaurants taking part in the dinners for Destination Lugana:

IL FIORISTA (Monday, June 12, 2023)

VICEVERSA (Tuesday, June 13, 2023)

GNOCCO (Monday, June 19, 2023)

HEARTH (Monday, June 19, 2023)

MISIRIZZI (Wednesday, June 21, 2023)

OSTERIA CARLINA TRIBECA (Thursday, June 22, 2023)

All information on this event series, the participating wineries,
restaurants, and clubs can be found here: Destination Lugana.

Lugana wines come from an area that is on the border between the two provinces of Brescia and Verona. The DOC region stretches along an area south of Lake Garda, the largest lake in Italy.  Lugana is made from the Turbiana grape, aka Trebbiano di Lugana, and may be related to Verdicchio.

Virginia sent me two samples to taste because she knows how much I enjoy Lugana wines.

IMG_9517Lugana DOC “Torre del Falasco” 2021 Cantina Valpantena made from 100% Trebbiano di Lugana. The grapes are  destemmed and crushed followed by a short cold maceration on the skins. Then a soft pressing of the grapes and fermentation at a controlled temperature. It has hints of citrus fruit  peach, floral notes a touch of lime, mineral notes and bright acidity. The winery suggested serving it with hors d’oeuvres, fish and white meats.

IMG_9518Lugana DOC “Conchiglia” Citari made from 100% Trebbiano di Lugana from vines 25 to 30 years old on the banks of Lake Garda. The soil is clay and limestone, rich in mineral salts and fossil shells (hence the name) Harvest is by hand in October.  Fermentation is in stainless steel. The wine ages in stainless steel for 7 months, 6 of which are on the lees. This is a full bodied, balanced wine with hints of apple, white peach, grapefruit, citrus notes and a hint of almonds. The wine pairs well with white meats and fish. My favorite lake in Italy is Lake Garda and Lugana wine is a perfect combination with the fish from the lake.

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