Càduferrà Wines from Liguria

Federica Schir (federica@federicaschir-pr.com) organized a wine tasting and dinner when I was in Rome recently with wines from four wineries. Last week I reported on the wines of Tenuta Rottensteiner with Hannes Rottensteiner. Here is my report on the wines of Càduferrà, represented by Davide Zoppi and his husband, Giuseppe Luciano Aieta.

Davide and Giuseppi

The Càduferrà Winery started more than 30 years ago when Antonio Zoppi, originally from Bonassolo met and married Aida Forgione from Campania.  Aida, named for the opera by Giuseppe Verdi, is a winemaker and the young couple  decided to quit their jobs and move to Bonassolo on the Ligurian Coast and  produce wine. Over the years they bought farmhouses and land in the surrounding area, including the Cinque Terre, and began to plant vines. In 2000, they named their winery Càduferrà, a dialect expression meaning “blacksmith’s house” because the rows of vines now cover an area where horses were shoed in the past.

Davide, their son, and Giuseppe recently joined his parents in operating the property. Their plan is to look toward the future with an eye on the past. Together they turned the property into an agriturismo or holiday farm to attract tourism and modernized the winery.

Davide said their pride is the recovery of rare and ancient vines as a way of returning to the past and respecting the place as it originally was. To rediscover the original viticultural crops, in its Bonassola soils, they aim to bring back varieties such as Ruzzese, Rossese Bianco, Picabon and Albarola Kihlgren, which have been present in the Cinque Terre and the eastern coast of Liguria since ancient times, but have been partially forgotten throughout recent history.

Càduferrà is located between the Golfo deli Poeti and the Gulf del Tigullio, 35 km from La Spezia and 50 km from Genoa.

The Vines and Wines

There are 4.5 seaside hectares divided into 11 tiny vineyard sites and crus. The vine rows are pergola trained and look out on the sea.  Unlike most other wineries, all of the vineyards are multi-varietal with the white Albarolo, Vermentino and Bosco  grown together and the red Sangiovese, Merlot, Ciliegiolo, Syrah and Granaccia as well as the rare Vermentino Nero grown together. The vineyards are certified organic and the oenologist is internationally reknowned Graziana Grassini.

Colline Di Levanto Bianco DOP “Bonazolae” 2002 made from Vermentino, Albarola and Bosco grown on the Bonassola hills on the Ligurian coast. Some of the soil is rich in clay, of medium texture and some soil is lean and rich in sandstone skelton. After a short skin maceration the must obtained from the direct pressing of the grapes is decanted and only the limpid part ferments in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks.  The wine remains on the lees with repeated bâtonnage. The new wine is bottled before the Easter holidays the year after the harvest. The wine has hints of jasmine, citrus, tropical fruit and floral notes.

Colline di Levanto Vermentino 2022 “Luccicante” made from 100% Vermentino. Various and characteristic soils with a clay composition, medium textured, originating from the tectonic uplift of marine terraces. After a short skin maceration the must obtained from the direct pressing of the grapes is decanted  and only the limpid part ferments in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. The wine remains on the lees with repeated bâtonnage The new wine is bottled before the Easter holidays, the year after the harvest. The wine has hits of chamomile, white peaches, apples, white flowers, almonds and citrus notes.

Liguria di Levante DOP Magia di Rosa 2022 made from Sangiovese, Vermentino and Syrah. The soil is various and characteristic, mostly clayey with a medium mixture. After a short maceration, the must obtained from direct pressing of the grapes is decanted, only the limpid part ferments in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. The new wine is bottled before the Easter holidays, the year after the harvest. The wine has hints of strawberry, raspberry, white peach and a hint of jasmine.

Colline Di Levanto Rosso “ ‘Ngilù” 2022 made from Sangiovese, Ciliegiolo, Merlot, Grenache, Vermentino Nero and Syrah.  Soil is various and characteristic, mostly clay with a medium mixture. Alcoholic fermentation in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature. After removing the must from the wine, the fermentation process continues in the same stainless steel vats. The wine is aged in stainless steel vats for a minimum of 6 months. The wine has hints of pomegranate, raspberry. red cherry and a hint of strawberry. This is the first time I have tried a wine with Vermentino Nero!

Davide’s passion for his winery really shows through and I was impressed by all his wines.  I particularly enjoyed tasting some of the lesser-known varieties.

Caduferra also makes Liguria di Levante Passito Bianco l’ Intraprendente  made from Bosco, Vermentino and Albarola and a Liguria di  Levante Passito Bianco Ruzzese.

Rottensteiner: Winemaking on the Red Stone

When Michele and I were in Rome, Federica Schir <federica@federicaschir-pr.com> arranged a tasting and dinner at a very famous restaurant, Alfredo Alla Scrofa.  The restaurant is one of two Roman restaurants that claim to be the originators of fettuccine Alfredo, a rich plate of eggy fresh fettuccine pasta tossed with butter and Parmigiano Reggiano cheese.  In this country, cream is often added to the dish, but its an absolute no-no at Alfredo’s.  To go with our meal, there were  wines from four different producers:  Tenuta Rottensteiner (Bolzano), Càduferrà (Liguria) Rizzini (Franciacorta) and Vallarom(Trentino).  It was quite a feast.

Here is my report on the Tenuta Rottensteiner wines.

Federica introduced Hannes Rottensteiner from Tenuta Hans Rottensteiner. Hannes  is the  winemaker and jointly conducts the affairs of the winery with his father Anton (Toni) with the help of other members of the family. Hannes’ wife Judith takes care of sales and marketing and two of his sisters, Eli and Silvia, supply grapes to the winery.

Hannes said there are documents that confirm there were vines planted on Rottensteiner land in 1527. The modern story begins however in 1956 when Hans Rottensteiner, Hannes grandfather founded the winery that bears his name.

They not only use grapes from the family’s 10 hectares but also grapes from 50 regional grape growers and make 16 different varieties of white and red wine.

Hannes told us that his family is one of the oldest wine-growing families in South Tyrol. Their winemaking history began many generations ago in this area where the vines grow on porphyry, the red rock typical of this region. Their surname is also the namesake of the red rock.

Bolzano lies on a giant porphyry slab. This red rock is clearly visible all around the city and significantly influences the mineral character of the wine produced here.

The wines

Südtirol-Alto Adige DOC Weissburgunder Pinot Bianco “Carnol” 2023 made from 100% Pinot Bianco. The training system is guyot and the soils sandy, loamy, wand porphyry. The “Carnol” takes the name of Hannes father, Toni Rottensteiner’s, birthplace. The grapes come from the best Pinot Blanc vineyards around Bolzano grown on very mineral soils. Hannes said this origin and careful work in the vineyard give the wine all the characteristics which make the Pinot Blanc so special. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, apples, peach a touch of spice and a hint of white flowers.

Südtirol-Alto Adige DOC Pinot Grigio 2023 made from 100% Pinot Gris. The soil is gravel. slightly loamy and porphyry. The training system is pergola and guyot. Vinification is in steel tanks. After fermentation the wine ages in steel tanks.  Hannes said, “Our Pinot Grigio grows in Branzollo and Frangarto, two villages in the South of Bolzano, one in the valley, the other one on a slight slope, at an altitude of 250 – 300 meters. Another part comes from S. Giacomo in Sabbia next to Bolzano at 450 meters and from Auna di Sotto at 600 meters. In this way, we have a full-bodied, structured, but also minerally and elegant wine.” The wine has notes of citrus fruit, peach, pear, light spice and a touch of banana.

Hannes said that although the Pinot Grigio is a relative of the Pinot Bianco, the wines quite different – not only because of the copper-colored berries of the Pinot Grigio, but also because of the characteristics of the wines. The Pinot Grigio is more complex, with more intense color and notes of banana, vanilla and spices.

Südtirol-Alto Adige Schiava made from 100% Schiava from the Nussbaumer estate in Mission near Bolzano. Sandy and sedimentary soil and the training system is the pergola. Vinification is in stainless steel. After fermentation the wine matures in stainless steel tanks. This is a light and easy wine to drink and can accompany many different foods. It is wine that should be drunk young. It has hints of strawberry and raspberry, violets, cherry and a hint of almonds.

Südtirol-Alto Adige DOC Santa Maddalena Classico “Vigna Premstallerhof” 2023 made from 93% Schiava and 7% Lagrein. The Premstallerhof estate, located in Santa Maddalena at 400 to 500 meters above sea level and with approximately four hectares, is not only one of the largest, but also one of the best estates in the area. It has been owned by the family Vogel since 1962. They are Swiss wine importers, who turned a dream into reality in buying a vineyard in the St. Magdalena area. Gertrud Vogel directly cultivates the vineyard according to the biodynamical philosophy. The South-East exposure, together with the excellent topographic conditions and the loose porphyry soil, make for one of the best DOC St. Magdalener, the Premstallerhof. Fermentation is in steel tanks and the wine matures in concrete and large wooden barrels. Hannes said St. Magdalener is one of the most famous wines of South Tyrol. Traditionally, the two varieties Schiava and Lagrein are planted together in the same vineyard. The wine has great length with hints of violets, cherries and a slight bitter almond finish.

Select Pinot Noir Riserva 2020 made from 100% Pinot Noir from the Nussbaumerhof estate in Mission (Appiano). The soil is sandy porphyry and the training system is guyot. This Pinot Noir comes from the best Pinot Noir vineyards in Bolzano. Abundant sun during the day, cool nights, good aeration, great attention during yield control and in the management of the microclimate in the vineyard. The wine spends 12 months in barriques the wine has hints of . cherry, raspberry  spice, vanilla a hint of mushroom.

Südtirol-Alto Adige DOC Select Lagrein Gries Riserva  2021 made from 100% Lagrein which grows in three vineyards in the center of Bolzano Gries where there are deep sedimentary soils with more than 30 year-old grapevines.  The training system is guyot.  Vinification is in French barriques. This is a full bodied red wine hints of violets, chocolate, blackberries and a touch of tobacco. Hannes said the tradition and modernity of the Rottensteiner family finds its clearest expression in this wine.

We enjoyed meeting Hannes and tasting all of his wines.  Next week, more about our dinner and the other wines we tasted.

Visiting Tenuta Casenuove

When Federica Schir (federica@federicaschir-pr.com) heard that Michele and I were in Rome a few weeks ago, she invited us to meet her at Tenuta Casenuove in the Chianti Classico Zone. We took the train from Rome to Florence and met Federica at the station. The winery is located in the heart of Tuscany near the town of Panzano, between Florence and Siena.

At the winery we met Alessandro Fonseca, an agronomist who is the General Manager and Wine Director of the estate. He told us that the history of the property goes back to the 1600’s but the modern story begins in 2015 when it was acquired by Philippe Austruy, an entrepreneur, art collector, and wine lover who also owns prestigious wineries in France and Portugal.

The vineyards

He undertook a complete renovation of the estate which comprises 120 hectares of rolling hills.  Vines, woodlands and olive groves coexist in this part of Tuscany celebrated for its biodiversity.  There are 30 hectares of vineyards at about 450 meters which are dedicated to the production of red wine.

Cosimo Casini in the Cellar

Alessandro hired enologist Cosimo Casini to direct all of the vineyards, and cellar master Maria Sole Zoli. Together they are a very talented team.  Cosimo took us on a tour of the vineyards and spoke about the terroir and explained why certain grape varieties were planted in specific soil.  In the cellar he said they produce a very traditional Chianti Classico Classico but use the latest innovative techniques to make the wine.

He pointed to a tank the size of a barrique made of steel, not wood. He said it imparts all of the elements of barriques without adding any wood flavor.

The wines of Tenuta Casenuove

ZIIK Spumante Rosé Charmat Metodo Extra Brut Bio made from 100% Sangiovese. Limestone clay soil of marine origin. The exposure is south/southwest. Harvest takes place the last week of August and the first week of September.  The grapes are harvested manually, according to a rigorous selection from the areas most suited to sparkling wine. Once in the cellar the grapes are crushed by soft pressing and constantly monitored with several tastings to understand the exact moment of the end of the pressing. This is to guarantee only the best, most delicate, fresh and aromatic part of the pressing, free from vegetable astringencies and excessive hardness. This is followed by a cold static decantation of the grape must obtained without the use of any additives.  After that, alcoholic fermentation takes place in a controlled temperature steel tank, respecting all the organic production protocols. The wine is bottled in March the year following the harvest after 4 months on the lees.

Chianti Classico DOCG 2020 made from 90% Sangiovese, 6% Cannaiolo and 4% Merlot. The soil is a mix of limestone and clay dating back to the Cretaceous Oligocene era with the presence of galestro and sandstone coming from the disintegration of the “Macigno del Chianti” rock. Harvest is the second week of September to the first ten days in October. In the cellar, the bunches are sorted and then the grapes. Vinification is in raw concrete tanks filled by gravity. The grapes are gently placed in the tanks without using mechanical pumps that could damage the grapes.

Cosimo said this step is essential to manage the “whole grape” winemaking and it affects the entire architectural design of the winery and the purchase of sorting machines. Once fermentation has started, pumping over and delestage are carried out during the entire period, up to 25 days. A vertical press is used for racking and pressing.

The wine is aged 6 to 8 months in a concrete tank and in 45 HL Slavonian oak barrels and 18 months in bottled before it is released. The wine has floral notes with hints of black and red fruit, violets and maraschino cherry.

Cosimo said 2020 was a fairly regular vintage. It was complicated, however, by the lockdown and the restrictions imposed to protect against the Covid-19 epidemic which greatly complicated normal wine management.

Chianti Classico DOC 2019 Riserva made from 100% Sangiovese. The soil is a mix of limestone clays of marine origin with the presence of galestro. Vinification is the same as above.  The wine is aged in 25HL Slavonian casks and 500 liter tonneaux of first and second passage for 12 months and in bottle for 24/30 months before release. It has flavors and aromas raspberry and blackberry with balsamic notes, floral hints and pleasant acidity.

Chianti Classico DOCG 2019 Gran Selezione made from 100% Sangiovese. The soil is a mix of limestone and clay dating back to the Cretaceous Oligocene era with the presence galestro of particular selections from the Sopratorre-Pozzo vineyard. Harvest takes place the first week of October. Once fermentation has started, pumping over and delestage are carried out during the time in the tank up to 30 days. A vertical press is used for racking and pressing. The wine is aged for 20 months in large Slavonian oak barrels and in bottle for 36 months before release. This is an elegant complex wine with hints of violets, wild berries, cherries, tobacco leaf with a very long finish and pleasing aftertaste. The wine can age for 10 years or more. Cosimo said “this wine is the maximum expression of the Sangiovese from Panzano, a true expression of the terroir of our estate.”

Cosimo said 2019 was a very balanced vintage. There were rains that allowed an excellent water reserve in the soils but did not create problems for fungus diseases.

IGT Toscana 2020 Tenuta Casenuove made from 60% Sangiovese, 35% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc.  Cosimo said the plot selection was chosen because it is characterized by evident outcrops of galestro, less fertile and suited to quality viticulture.  Harvest is from the middle of September to the first 10 days of October.  Vinification is in vitrified cement tanks at a controlled temperature. Once fermentation has has started pumping over and delestage are carried out for up to 30 days. A vertical press is used for racking and pressing. The wine is aged for 12 months in cement tanks, large Slavonian oak barrels and barriques for 12 months, then in bottle for 30 months before release. This is a big rich, complex wine, dense and concentrated with ripe black and red fruit, spice snd a touch of mocha. It is a wine with great aging potential and could age for 20 years.

After our tour, we enjoyed a tasting of the wines, followed by dinner with Federica, Alessandro and Cosimo in the dining room of the beautifully decorated main house. Conversation ranged from activities in the Chianti Classico Zone, olive oil production, the delicious food and future plans for Tenuta Casenuove.  We also learned that Alessandro is produces an excellent dessert wine on his own property.

Tenuta Casenuove also produces an excellent extra virgin olive oil which tasted during dinner.

Dinner

   Our dinner began with fettuccine with a sausage ragu made by the chef of Tenuta Casenuove.

Next we had a typical beef stew of the region served with mashed potatoes.  Our meal was matched perfectly with the wines we had previously sampled.

With our dessert, Michele had a glass of port from one of Tenuta Casenuove’s owner’s estates in Portugal, Quinta da Côrte Porto LBV 2016, and I had a very traditional grappa made from Sangiovese.

Dessert was a classic crostata di marmellata filled with homemade jam made with an assortment of berries.

We stayed overnight in one of the lovely appointed rooms in the main building.

We left early the next day and on the way back to Florence I had a chance to reflect on how much I had enjoyed the wines of Tenuta Casenuove and how pleased I was to see them making Chianti Classico wines in the traditional way.

 

 

Fattorie Isola: Organic Sardinian Wines

A few weeks ago Michele and I were in Florence for the day and met with Elisa Bosco. We have know Elisa, who is an export communications consultant for wineries for a number of years. Elisa wanted to tell us about a winery she represents in Sardinia and leave us some samples.  It’s always a pleasure to see her, catch up and try some of the wines she represents.

The Winery

Fattorie Isola was founded in 2018 by Luigi Cuccaru with the help of the oenologist Renzo Panetto. It is based in Sardinia in the province of Sassari, municipality of Sorso, locality of Tres Montes, an area well suited for the cultivation of organic grapes. There are 8.5 hectares of vineyards.

All the wines are certified organic and they use as little SO2 as possible to ensure the stability and longevity of the wine. The alcoholic fermentation and all the oenological practices to obtain the wines respect the protocols provided for in EU Regulation 203/2012 for organic wines.

The Wines

Sardegna Semidano Superiore 2023 DOP made from 100% Semidano. There is a short cold maceration of the must before fermentation. This a fragrant fruity white wine with hints of peach, apricot, floral notes and fresh acidity. It is a native white grape from central Sardegna (Campidano). Semidano almost disappeared during the 80’s, but then, especially thanks to the work of Fattorie Isola’s oenologist, it was preserved. However it is a very limited production and today there are just a few hectares in the whole island (less than 14), and only a few producers who make wines from this grape. I have to thank Elisa for introducing me to this wine. $15

Vermentino DI Sardegna 2023 DOP made from 100% Vermentino grapes left on the vine until the end of September so the grapes are very ripe. The soil is sandy, clayey and loamy and the average age of the vines is 25 years. There are 4,000 vines per hectare.  Training system is guyot. Hand harvest with sorting of the grapes in the field into boxes and the grapes are cooled to +5° C for 48 hours before vinification, with a further 12 hours of cold maceration of the skins after pressing. Fermentation is in 100 HL stainless steel tanks with selected yeast. Malolactic fermentation does not take place.  Aging is in steel tanks. $24

Cannonau DI Sardegna. 2022  DOP made from 100% Cannonau grapes harvested well ripeened at the end of summer.  Vineyards are at 150 meters and the soil is granite. The harvest is manual in boxes and the grapes are cooled to +10/12°C before vinification to slow down the start of fermentation. The vinification takes place in thermo-conditioned containers with maceration of the skins for 14/15 days. The wine has hints of cherries, raisins, myrtle and a hint of liquorice.    $15

Cannonau Di Sardegna 2021 DOP Riserva made from 100% Cannonau.  These grapes are grown organically in the LUIGI CUCCARU vineyard in Tres Montes in the municipality of Sorso (SS) IT. One year after vinification, the wine is aged in oak tonneaus for approximately 6/8 months before being bottled. The wine has hints of morello cherries, raisins, myrtle and a touch of vanilla. $20

They also make a Rosato DOP from Cannonau di Sardegna grapes and a Spumante Brut “Kessa” DOP from Vermentino di Sardegna grapes.

For more information on the winery and the wines contact:

ElisaBosco.Wine

Export & Communication Consulting

eb@elisabosco.wine

ITA +39 334 1588164

USA +1 646 593 8886

http://www.elisabosco.wine

Supper with Daniele Cernilli “Doctor Wine”

One of the highlights of my visits to Rome is the opportunity to see old friends like Daniele Cernilli (Doctor Wine) and Marina Thompson, his wife.  This year, they invited Michele and I to their home for a light supper with some special wines.

Daniele is one of the world’s foremost experts on Italian wine and is the author of The Essential Guide to Italian Wine which is updated annually.  Pictured above is the 10th edition, published for 2024. The book is my go-to reference book for Italian wines since, as Daniele said, “All the wines worth drinking are in the pages of this guide.”  Both Italian and English versions of the book are available.

GT Ravenna Bianco 2011 “Tergeno” Fattoria Zerbina made from 6% Albano late harvest, 34% Albano secco, and 50% Chardonnay from different vineyards with different training systems and different quantities of vines per hectare. Part of the Albano is fermented in barriques while the remainder ferments in stainless steel. The wine was aged for 12 months in stainless steel and barriques and then 6 months in bottle before release.

The wine was not showing any signs of age. It was rich and opulent with hints of citrus and tropical fruits.  Daniele picked this vintage to go with our foie gras appetizer, a perfect match.

The style of this wine has been changed over the years.  Since 2014, it is a completely different wine and even the label is different from the bottle we tasted.

Tergeno was introduced in 1991 as a blend of three wines: Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Gewürztraminer. After five years as a dry wine they found the results achieved with the Albano grape affected by noble rot was very good.  So they decided to  produce a version in the late harvest style, using a selection of Albano harvested late with  botrytis combined with a part of Chardonnay and vinified as a dry white.

Thanks to botrytis, the wine acquires a very distinct and unique personality. Starting from the 2014 harvest this wine is 100% Albano, with 30% late harvested.  Today the fermentation is in stainless steel and the wine is aged in stainless steel and 6 months in bottle before release.

.Castellucci Miano DOC Valledolmo-Contea di Sclafani-Sicily “Shiara” Bianco 2012  made of 100% Catarratto from 30/40  years old vines located on the slopes of the Madonie Montains at 700/900 meters.   Training system is alberello and sapling, the pruning is guyot and spur.  Soil is half sand and clay with an alkaline reaction due to active limestone. Harvest takes place in October. White wine vinification with fermentation at a controlled temperature. Malolactic fermentation does not take place. The wine remains in stainless steel for 6 months and then in bottle for 4 months before release. The wine has hints a citrus fruit, apple, and pear with a touch of cantaloupe and crisp acidity $35.  Catarratto is a grape indigenous to Sicily. I tasted the 2019 last year with the US importer, Tony Margiotta of Gladiator wines. As Daniele said, this is a white wine that can age.

Smoked salmon served with toast points and French butter

Foie Gras Bloc

Roasted Marinated Yellow  Peppers

Barbaresco DOCG 2016 ‘Manzola”   Nada Fiorenzo made from Nebbiolo (Lampia and Michet) from Manzola in the commune of Treiso in Piedmont. The vines were planted in 1998 and the soil is calcareous-clayey with sandy outcrops. Exposure is  southwest at 230 meters. Manual harvest followed  by a soft pressing of the grapes and separate vinification for each single parcel. There are no herbicides and other invasive vine protection products used and a return to old practices such as hand-hoeing.  Aging is in oak for 24 months and in bottle for 6 months before release.  The wine has hints of cherry, licorice, leather, tea and a hint of spice. It is a wine that can age.

Baked eggplant with tomato and mozzarella was our main course.

Vinsanto del Chianti Classico 2013 Fontodi in half bottle made from Malvasia and Sangiovese from various vineyards within the property.  There are 3,500 to 6,000 vines per hectare and the training system is guyot. The grapes are naturally dried for 5 months after harvest. After the pressing, the must is racked into chestnut and oak barrels of 50 and 110 liters where aging takes place for at least 6 years. There are only 3,000 bottles produced. Fontodi is located in Panzano in Chianti. This is an excellent dessert wine with hints of hazelnut, dried apricot, honey and a touch of caramel.

Tiramisu — A classic version that Daniele highly recommended

I always enjoy seeing Daniele and Marina and I always learn something new.

Lunch Overlooking the Colosseum

A few years ago, Iris Carulli, a mutual friend introduced Michele and I to Maureen Fant. Until that time, we knew of Maureen only by her writings as an Italian food expert and author of several books about Italian food and history.  A native New Yorker, Maureen has lived in Rome for many years and describes herself as a “lapsed classicist.”  Currently, she is the coprincipal of Elifant Archaeo-Culinary Tours.

Recently, Maureen and her husband Franco Filippi invited Michele and I and a group of friends for lunch in her apartment overlooking the Colosseum in Rome.

Maureen did all the cooking with a little help from her friends and the wines were supplied by Maureen’s husband Franco.

Maureen (second left), Franco (far right), and some of the guests sipping welcome glasses of Ca’del Bosco spumante before the antipasto which included fresh cheeses, marinated carrots, dried tomatoes, olives, marinated anchovies, and many other savory bites.

Franciacorta  DOCG  Extra Brut 2018 Vintage Collection Ca’ del Bosco (Lombardia) made from 65%  Chardonnay, 5% Pinot Bianco and 30% Pinot Nero from 27 certified organic vineyards. Grapes are hand harvested and each individual bunch is washed and dried. Fermentation takes place for 5 months in oak barrels. The wine remains on the yeasts for an average of 48 months. This is an elegant wine with hints of citrus fruit, apple and pear lemon and a touch of pineapple. One of my favorites.

Vino Spumante Brut Metodo Classico Stefanini (Lazio) made from 100% Rossetto. White wine vinification with selected yeasts in steel tanks at a controlled temperature. Malolactic fermentation does not take place. The wine spends 24 months on the lees. This was a first for me. I did not know the wine or the producer. It is a full bodied spumante with hints of citrus fruit, floral notes, a touch of almonds and nice minerality.

Garganelli con sugo di cipolle — pasta with onion sauce

Barolo Bussia Giacomo Fenocchio 2018 100% Nebbiolo varieties Michet and Lampia. Monforte d’Alba-Sottozone Bussia (Piemonte).  From a 5 hectare vineyard facing south/southwest at 300 meters. The soil is Helvetian with clayey and calcareous sediments, rich in iron. The vines are 30 years old. Traditional natural fermentation without added yeasts for 40 days in stainless steel tanks. The wine ages for 6 months in stainless steel tanks and 30 months in large Slavonian casks 35 to 50 hl. It remains in the bottle a time before release. This is a classic Barolo with hints of spice, licorice, roses, tar and tea. I visited the winery a few years ago and have always enjoyed their wines.

Roasted Pork Loin with Pancetta and Herbs

Negroamaro Salento IGP Rosso  2013 “Patriglione” Cosimo Taurino made from 100% Negramaro from 40 to 50 year old vines. The vineyard is 15 hectares with a east/west exposure, flat elevation and the soil is calcareous. There are 6,000 plants per hectare and the training system is spurred Apulian small trees. The grapes are picked late the second week of October. The fermentation tanks are vitrified concrete and there is an automatic cooling system. Fermentation is for 10/15 days with 8/12 days skin contact.This is a wine that will age for many years. It has hints of dry black fruit, blackberries blueberries, prune and raisins. I have been drinking the wines from Cosimo Taurino for many years.

On the plate.  Roast pork loin, mashed potatoes, braised artichokes and pearl onions agrodolce.

Our dessert was made by another guest, Susan Westmoreland.

It was a rich and spicy ginger cake served with braised apples and whipped cream.

Thank you Maureen and Franco for a delicious Roman meal with great friends!

 

 

Sunday Lunch in Rome

A number of years ago a friend Iris Carulli recommended we try Ristorante La Tavernaccia Da Bruno in Testaccio for traditional Roman cuisine.  We had a great meal  and have returned many times. Last Sunday we went again and it was as good as ever.

We were greeted by Patrizia Persiani, one of the owners.

I stopped to admire the pastry display.  It is a very cozy and welcoming restaurant.

A Family Affair

La Tavernaccia Da Bruno was founded in Rome by Bruno Persiani and his wife Giovanna Giuliacci in 1968. Since 2005 the restaurant, has specialized in traditional recipes and run with professionalism and passion by Bruno and Giovanna’s daughters, Paola and Patrizia, and the latter’s husband, Giuseppe Ruzzettu (the chef) . A few years ago, Giuseppe and Patrizia’s son, Gabriele Ruzzettu, joined the staff.

Michele and I ordered the same dishes. Each time the waitress asked, “uno per due?” and Michele answered “No, uno per uno.” It was very nice that she asked if we wanted half portions but we were very happy we ordered full portions..

We started with liver crostini, a dish I associate more with Tuscany than Rome.  But it was a perfect starter, tangy with capers and vinegar.

. For our pasta course, we ordered the pasta alla gricia, one of the four favorite pastas of traditional Roman cooking.  It’s made with guanciale (pork cheek), pecorino cheese and lots of black pepper and served here with thick, homemade spaghetti.

For our main course, we had roast suckling pig.  The skin was crispy and the tender meat was scented with herbs.  With it we had rosemary roasted potatoes and an order of cicoria ripassata.  Chicory is a member of the endive family that is popular at this time of the year.  It was sauteed with garlic and chile.

 

Chianti Classico DOCG “San Donatino” Poggio Ai Mori made from 100% Sangiovese. The  vineyard is at 400 meters  and the soil is mainly galestro. Training system is spurred cordon and guyot. There is mechanical weeding and the use of green manure in alternate years. Only copper, sulfur and products compatible with the Certification Bio are used. Harvest is by hand. Traditional vinification with daily pumping over. Spontaneous fermentation is by natural yeasts. The fermentation is not temperature controlled. The wine remains on the skins for three weeks and it remains on the lees for 6 months. The wine is aged in steel for 2 years and in bottle for 6 months before release. It has hints of cherry, red current, raspberry, a touch of plum and a hint of violets. The wine was perfect match with the food.

Ristorante La Tavernaccia Da Bruno

Via Giovanni da Castel Bolognese, 63  Rome.          Closed Wednesday

+39 06 5812792

latavernaccia.roma@gmail.com

Dining with Martusciello Wines in Naples

Michele and I are spending February and March in Rome.  We like to be here at this time of the year because the weather is pleasant and the crowds are smaller. 

One day, we decided to take the high speed train to Naples to visit Gilda Guida and her husband, Salvatore Martusciello, who own Salvatore Martusciello, Wines of Persistence. I first met the couple a few years ago on a press trip sponsored by Campania Stories and organized by Diana Cataldo. The wine they presented at the event was a Gragnano, and it was wonderful.

Gilda and Salvatore met us at the train station and took us on a little tour of Naples.  At lunchtime, we went to one of our favorite restaurants, La Taverna a Santa Chiara.  Michele and I have gone there many times, and it turns out that it is a favorite of the Martusciello’s, too.

At the restaurant we were greeted by Nives Monda, the owner.  She sat with us and told us about the restaurant and her passion for the locally produced products of the region.  She suggested we try a tasting of several of their regional dishes.

While we ate, Salvatore told us that he had  had 26 years of experience in his family winery before going out on his own. His family’s was the first winery to produce sparkling wine in Campania over 30 years ago.  Now Salvatore and Gilda are building a new winery of their own which should be completed next year.  It is located in Quarto, just north of Naples.

 Salvatore said he does not own any vineyards but has arrangements with a number of small vineyard owners in the area. All of the arrangements are based on a handshake. He spoke very enthusiastically about the terroir, the native grapes and this part of Campania in particular.

Trentapioli Spumante Brut Asprinio d’Aversa  (Metodo Martinotti Brut) Made from 100% Asprinio d’Aversa from the tree-lined historic vineyard in the town of Casapesenna, in the Agro Aversano.

Trentapioli, the name of this wine, comes from the thirty pegs of the ladder used to climb up to harvest the grapes. The vines are typical Alberata Aversana. In the Alberata training system, which dates back to the Etruscans, the vines grow up to 18 meters tall and are tied to tall poplar trees. The harvest is manual because ladders up to 20 meters high are needed in order to reach the grapes.  The grapes are placed in 18 kg boxes. The soil is alluvial, volcanic and of medium texture.

After crushing the grapes, the must is immediately separated from the skins and placed in an autoclave for a second fermentation. This wine is matured on its lees in an autoclave for about 90 days and was bottled on December 3. The wine has nice citrus fruit aromas and flavors with a hint of lime, herbs and good acidity. It can age for 5 to 6 years.

With it, we enjoyed an assortment of locally produced salumi and cheeses including caciocavallo Nobile®, pecorino affinato in vino, caciotta di bufala, ricotta di fuscella di latte Nobile® e bocconcino di bufala di Aversa, pancetta di Agerola di Acampora, prosciutto crudo di Mottolino, Valtellina, provolone cheese and ricotta cheese from Nobile® milk.

Gilda said the Trentapioli  was  the perfect combination with the mozzarella and we had to agree.

Otto Uve, Gragnano della Penisola Sorrentina DOC Made from 60% Piedirosso, Aglianico, and Sciascinoso, and 40% Suppezza, Castagnara, Serbegna, Olivella and Sauca. The eight grape varieties in the blend give this wine its name. Salvatore said it was a tribute to the lesser known grapes of the area. The training system is espalier. The vineyard is at 300 meters. For 2015 the harvest began on September 24th and ended on October 8th. The grapes were hand harvested into boxes of 20 kg. After destemming and crushing, maceration with the skins lasts for 5 days, soft pressing of the grapes in a pneumatic press and fermentation in temperature controlled tanks at about 20C. The wine was bottled in the beginning of  December. It should be served chilled and be drunk within two years after it was bottled.

This is the perfect pizza wine but it also goes with many other southern Italian dishes. It is only 11.5% alcohol. This is a wine with light foam when poured, hints of strawberry, red currants and a touch of spice.  It is a slightly frizzante red wine which Salvatore likes to describe as vivace (lively).

With it we had Ziti alla Genovese, which, despite its name is a classic Neapolitan dish.  Meats, usually beef and pork, are slowly cooked with a lot of onions to form a mellow sauce that is served over pasta.

Settevulcani Piedirosso dei Campo Flegrei DOC made from 100% Piedirosso from historical  vineyards in the Cuma archeological zone.  Settevulcani means seven volcanoes.

Piedirosso is one of the oldest grape varieties in Campania mentioned by Pliny the Elder (D.79 AD) in his Naturalis Historia. The vines are pre-phylloxera and they are not grafted onto American root stock. The vineyards are at sea level. Soil is very loose, trachytic and pumiceous sandy. Cultivation system is a traditional local system called “Puteplano” a kind of espalier with a chestnut stake supporting the vines. Harvest takes place the first week in October. The grapes are destemmed followed by a soft pressing. Fermentation is the temperature controlled tanks within skin contact. The wine is bottled in the late spring following the harvest.  The name Piedirosso derives from the color and shape of the stem which during the harvest becomes reddish in color and recalls the ‘feet’ of a pigeon. Piedirosso dei Campi Flegrei is characterized by its aromas of small red  and black fruits including blackberry, blueberries red currents, cherry. and a touch of spice.

With the Settivlcani, we had another Neapolitan classic, pasta with potatoes and provola di Agerola di latte Nobile®,  a cheese from Agerola on the Amalfi Coast.

Salvatore also produces Settevulcani Falanghina dei Campi Flegrei DOC, and Ottonove Lettere della Penisola Sorrentina DOC.

These are all traditional wines and all go very well with food.

We had a wonderful visit and look forward to visiting again when their new winery will be finished.

Roman Restaurants: The First Two

Michele and I are in Rome and in our first two days had dinner and lunch in two of our favorite restaurants: Ristorante Due Ladroni and Trattoria IL Matriciano.

Ristorante Due Ladroni  This is one of the best appointed restaurants in Rome and we usually go there when we first arrive.   It is a family restaurant now run by the younger generation who maintain their parents’ tradition of food and the service at its best.

The Food

We shared a plate of Moscardini Fritti, tiny crisp fried octopus to start. They were impossibly crunchy, nutty and juicy at the same time.

Michele had Alice alla Diavola, grilled spicy anchovies with with lemon.

I had grilled octopus and mushrooms on a bed of chick pea puree.

Michele’s pasta was Tonnarelli Cacio e Pepe con Chip

s di Carciofi

I had Ricci di Mare with Bucatini, sea urchin with thick spaghetti.

We shared the wonderful Crostata alle Visciole con Gelato di Crema for dessert.  Visciole are sour cherries that baked in a buttery crust.  The custardy ice cream was a perfect complement.

The first time we went to Il Matriciano (39-06-32500364) Via dei Gracchi, 55, was in 1983. The Colasanti Family has owned and operated the restaurant since 1912. Alberto Clasanti greets the guests and oversees the operations.  There is a nice outdoor space but  we like to sit inside, which seems to be favored by the Romans.

I always order stuffed zucchini flowers (I cannot get enough of them) and artichokes alla giudia to start. Both were also perfectly deep fried and the flowers contained a small amount of mozzarella and more than a hint of anchovy stuffing.

We both had Puntarella Salad.  Puntarella is Catalonian chicory which is very popular this time of year topped with anchovy dressing.

Michele had a tender braised artichoke alla Romana, which she prefers to the crunchy fried artichokes.

We both had pasta all’amatrtciana, bucatini with guanciale, tomato and pecorino cheese.

For desert Michele had tiny, fragrant fragoline del bosco, wild strawberries with crema gelato. I had the berries plain with a squeeze of lemon.

Falanghina Campi Flegrei DOC 2020 La  Sibilla made from 100% Falanghina from vines 65 years old. The wine remains on the lees in steel for 6 months and then one year in bottle before release. The wine was golden in color and a different style of Falaghina, richer with more dry fruit flavors.  We enjoyed this wine at Due Ladroni.

Looking forward to many more great meals

 

The Organic Wines of Corte Carezzabella

Corte Carezzabella

No matter how may times I go to Italy, I always discover something new.   For example, last summer Federica  Schir (federica@federicaschir-pr.com) introduced me to a winery that was much more than a winery in an area of the Veneto which I was not familiar with and a grape variety I had never tasted before. This is Corte Carezzabella.

Corte Carezzabella is a farm located at the edge of the Adige River, in the village of San Martino di Venezze near Rovigo, in the Veneto region. It is close to Venice, Padua and Ferrara.  The farm was established early in the last century and at that time the main production was from the fruit orchards.

Over the years the old and charming buildings on the property have been restored. Today the property is about 60 hectares split between vineyards, orchards of apples, pears, peaches and blueberries, and wheat fields in constant rotation.  All of the produce is certified organic.

When Federica and I arrived, we were greeted by Chiara Reato, who manages the agriturismo and hospitality part and is responsible for keeping all of their different activities connected.  She spoke about the farm and the people involved.

Francesco Favaretto, Francesco Mazzetto and Chiara

Francesco Favaretto, Chiara’s husband, runs the farming part, taking particular care of the wine project and its development from the fields to the cellar and the promotion of the wine.

Tommaso, Chiara’s brother, together with his wife Marianna, run the outdoor educational project that includes a kindergarten for children from 3 up to 6 years old.

Francesco Mazzetto is the winemaker (enologo). He is an independent freelancer with whom they have been collaborating since the 2020 vintage.

The farm shop where all the products from the farm are sold

In addition, there is a teaching farm for teenagers and adults, and a cooking lab that produces jam, preserves, juice, and many other products which can be purchased in the farm shop.

As an Agriturisimo, Corte Carezzabella is not only a working farm, but also has rooms and apartments for guests, a restaurant, and meeting facilities. Chiara said the goal is to transform the farm into a healthier ecosystem as well as a pleasant place to visit. The restaurant and shop offer typical local food with traditional dishes prepared with the products from the farm.

After a tour, we enjoyed a delicious lunch prepared by Chiara using the products from the farm.

 The Wines

I was very impressed with all the wines I tasted at Corte Carezzabella.  There is very little interference in the wine making process. Theirs are the type of wines that taste like the grapes they are made from and therefore make excellent food wines. I did not just taste the wines but drank them with lunch much to my enjoyment.

Pinot Grigio Delle Venezia  IGT 2020 made from 100% Pinot Grigio. The production zone is San Martino di Venezze (RO). Soil composition is 85% sand, 10% silt and 5% clay. Stratification characteristics are caused by the proximity of the vineyards to the river, that when it floods, deposits light and easy draining soils on top of a less permeable clay layer.  Vineyard  training method is “doppio  capovolto” (double-arched cane). Manual harvest takes place the 3rd week of August. There is a destemming of the grapes followed by a direct pressing followed by cold static sedimentation. Fermentation is in stainless steel tanks and late maturation on the yeast in steel and in bottle before release. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, pears, golden apples and a touch of acacia flowers.

 

“Brillo” Bianco Veneto IGT Sparkling wine made from Trebbiano and Pinot Grigio. There is a destemming of the grapes followed by a direct pressing and cold static sedimentation for the first fermentation in stainless steel tanks.  Then there is a 40 day fermentation at a controlled temperature with must in order to obtain 2.5 bars pf pressure and the prise de mousse. The wine is aged in the bottle on its own refermented yeasts. It has hints of yellow flowers, citrus fruit and green apple.

With the first two wines we had crostini with a fresh vegetable topping.

Rosato Veneto IGT Rosato Biologico “Rosa” made from 100% Merlot. Soil is 85% sand, 10% lime and 5% clay. The training system is cordon speronato.  Harvest is manual during the first weeks of September. Only 60% of the grapes are used. The wine has hints of  pomegranate, raspberry, strawberry and a touch of pink grapefruit.

Our second course was Pasta with a fresh tomato sauce and cheese.

Turchetta Veneto IGT 2020 made from 100% Turchetta. The training system is Sylvoz. Manual harvest takes place the 3rd week of October. Destemming and pressing of the grapes, then fermentation/maceration at a controlled temperature and the wine is in contact with the skins for 21 days. Aging is in concrete and in bottle until it is released. The wine has hints of cherry, blackberries, violets and a touch of spice. Turchetta is a local red grape found around the Rogivo area. There are very few hectares under cultivation.

Our third course was vitello tonnato, a classic summer dish of cold sliced veal with tuna mayonnaise sauce.

Merlot Veneto IGT 2021 made from 100% Merlot. The training system is Sylvoz. Harvest is the 3rd week of October. Destemming and pressing of the grapes is followed by fermentation/ maceration at a controlled temperature with skin contact for about 21 days. The wine ages in concrete and in the bottle before release. The wine has hints of mulberry and blackberry with herbaceous notes.

All of the wines are certified organic.

For more information see:

Agriturismo Corte Carezzabella 

Azienda Agricola Il Frutteto di San Martino

Via G.Marconi, 752-754 San Martino di Venezze, 45030 Rovigo

Tel: +39.0425.176157 – Mobile: +351.1934437

www.cortecarezzabella.com