Wines of Podere Il Castellaccio

Verona, Italy was the last stop on my recent wine press trip organized by Frederica Schir.  That night we tasted a number of wines and I was really impressed by the six wines from Azienda Agricola Podere Il Castellaccio

Podere Il Castellaccio is situated in Castagneto Carducci, in the Livorno area of Tuscany. Alessandro Scappini founded the winery in 2009, but the estate has belonged to his family since the 1960s. The estate is situated in the hills along the Costa degli Etruschi at an altitude of 100-160 meters above sea level in Bolgheri. The property faces the sea and enjoys a sea breeze all year, resulting in a Mediterranean microclimate that is ideal for viticulture.

The vineyards occupy 3.5 hectares and have an average age of 40 years. The older vineyards, occupying more than 2 hectares are planted with Tuscan native grape varieties:  Sangiovese, Ciliegiolo, Foglia Tonda and Pugnitello. In 2014 almost a hectare of Cabernet Franc was planted and this vineyard is sited on a steep hillside terrace. The plants are bush-trained and certain activities, like tilling the soil, are carried out using a horse. Another vineyard of a hectare is planned, where native wine varieties will be planted. The winery is organic certified and its next aim is to become biodynamic.

 The Wines of IL Castellaccio

IGT Toscana “Dimostro” Made from 100% organic Sangiovese grapes. The vineyard is at 160 meters with a north south exposure.  The soil is schist and galestro. There are 5,000 plants per hectare and the training system is spur pruning. Average age of vineyards is 50 years. Harvest is from the end of September to the beginning of October. Fermentation (with the addition of 5% grape stalks) takes place by means of indigenous yeasts in Slovonian oak barrels with a maceration on the skins of about two  weeks. After racking the wine is kept in oak barrels. The wine then remains in the bottle for 6 months before release. The wine has hints of red fruit, small berries and spice. $22

GT Toscana” Vaénte” made from Sangiovese, Pugnitello and Fogliatonda. Each grape variety is fermented separately using indigenous yeasts in Slovonian oak barrels with maceration on the skins for two weeks. After racking and blending, the wine ages in oak barrels for 12 months then in bottle until release.  They use Diam cork (supercritical carbon dioxide to remove TCA).  The wine has hints of vanilla, spices, sour cherry, black currants, balsamic notes and a touch of pine. $26

Bolgheri DOC Orio made from Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Syrah. The vineyard is at 140 meters and the average age of the vines is 10 to 20 years. Harvest is in September. Fermentation takes place in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks for 20 days. There is spontaneous malolactic fermentation during the aging. The wine ages in French oak barriques for 12 months and in bottle for 6 months before release. The wine has hints of dark berry fruit, ripe red fruit, vanilla and a note of oriental spices. $25

IGT Toscana Somatico made from 100% Pugnitello The vines are 50 years old and the training system is guyot pruning. Harvest is in the beginning of October.  The average age of the vines is 50 years. Harvest is in the beginning of October. Fermentation is in stainless steel tanks with indigenous yeasts and in cement tanks with a maceration on the skins for about two weeks. Aging is in cement tanks for 12 months and another 12 months in bottle before release.

Bolgheri Superiore DOC Il Castellaccio made from Cabernet Franc and Pugnitello. The vineyard is at 160 meters and the average age of the vines is 7/25 years. Harvest is at the end of September. Fermentation is with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature with maceration on the skins from 45 to 50 days. After racking the wine is kept in French oak barriques for 12 months and in amphorae of ceramic composition for another 12 months. Then the wine remains in bottle for at least 6 months. This is a wine that will age for 20  years or more.  It is full bodied with hints of cherries, cooked plums and a note of cinnamon. $31

IGT Toscana “Ardiglione” 100% Vermentino. The vineyard is at 100 meters and the harvest is in the beginning of October. The average age of the vines is 15/20 years. Harvest is at the end  of September. The bunches are hand picked and destemmed then crushed and pressed. The must is slowly decanted at a low temperature and fermented in steel tanks at a controlled temperature with selected yeasts. A small selection of bunches first  undergoes cryomaceration and then is fermented in French oak barriques where it matures on the lees until it is blended with the wine in  stainless steel.  It is aged on the lees for four months, assembled in barriques, filtered and bottled by the September following the harvest. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, yellow flowers and sweet spices.$23

It was a fitting ending to an enjoyable and interesting wine trip. $24

Perfect Panettone

by Michele Scicolone

The secrets of making perfect Panettone, Italy’s traditional Christmas cake, were revealed at a masterclass Charles and I attended, organized by Molino Dallagiovanna, a family-owned and operated flour company in Piacenza, Italy.

Sally Fischer of Sally Fischer Public Relations had invited us to the event which took place at the Institute of Culinary Education (ICE) in lower Manhattan.  Fabio Del Sorbo, Molino Dallagiovanna’s technician, was our instructor along with Biagio Settepani, the renowned pastry chef, who translated and added commentary of his own.  The two stressed the importance of using the right type of flour, preferably Molino Dallagiovanna’s Panettone Flour, which is high in protein and finely milled to produce the optimum panettone.

Fabio showed us how he prepares and maintains the lievito madre, a stiff type of sourdough starter crafted to contain low acidity, create the right texture, and add flavor to his panettone.  He stressed the importance of wrapping the prepared starter first in plastic, then in burlap, and tying it securely with string into a neat bundle.  This is very important to prevent  the starter from exploding as it ferments.  All of the participants received a portion of the Fabio’s lievito madre to experiment with in their own kitchens.  I put ours in a safe place far from anything fragile.

In addition to the right flour and the right starter, other elements to consider when making panettone are the type and amount of sweeteners, flavorings, and additions, such as dried fruits and nuts.  Temperature and humidity also play a role in making good panettone.  As Maestro Giuseppe Piffaretti, who is the leader of the Panettone World Cup, pointed out, “there is no one recipe” for making panettone.  Every chef creates his own.

The class ended with a tasting of Fabio’s panettone.  It was a work of art — tender, moist and full of fresh flavor.  Just the thing to enjoy with a cup of cappuccino or a glass of sparkling Moscato.

The masterclass was part of a two day program of events culminating in the selection of the finalists who will represent the United States and Canada at the Panettone World Cup to be held on November 8 and 9, 2024 in Milan, Italy, where they will compete for the top chef title in the Traditional Panettone and Chocolate categories.

For more information about Molino Dallagiovanna, contact sfpr@sallyfischerpr.com.

For info about the Coppa del Mondo, contact stampa@coppadelmondodelpanettone.ch.

Wines from Historic Families of Tuscany

The Frescobaldi family has eleven estates in Italy, ten of which are in Tuscany.  The family traces its roots back 700 years in Florence through 30 generations. They began in banking and played an important role in the political, economic, cultural and social life of Florence.

The Castello Nipozzano is situated in the heart of the Chianti Rufina zone east of Florence overlooking the Arno River Valley.

Nipozzano Vecchie Viti Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2020 Frescobaldi. Made from Sangiovese and complementary varieties from the oldest vines on the Castello Nipozzano estate which have a very deep root structure. The grapes are transferred to the cellar immediately after harvesting. They are destemmed and spontaneous fermentation takes place in cement tanks. Maceration is for 20 days with frequent pumping over of the must.  The wine remains in the vats to complete maceration.  The wine is aged for 24 months in oak barrels according to the ancient Tuscan tradition, then bottled for a time until it is ready to be released. This wine has hints of cherry, blackberry, blueberry, balsamic, and a touch of violet. $32

I have enjoyed the wines of Marchesi Frescobaldi for many years now and they always  produce excellent wine at a fair price.  This is my type of Chianti and I have always been impressed by it.

Tenuta Frescobaldi (Castiglione) is just slightly southwest of Florence in Val di Pesa. This is the first Frescobaldi estate, dating back to 1300.

Tenuta Frescobaldi Castoglioni IGT 2020 made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Sangiovese. The soil is calcareous clay with many stones.  The freshly harvested grapes are destemmed and fermented.  Light pump overs were carried out on a regular basis in temperature controlled steel tanks. After alcoholic fermentation, malolactic fermentation takes place. Aging is for 12 months in barriques and 2 months in the bottle before release. This wine has hints of cherry, blackberry and blueberry with a note of  cinnamon and a touch of black pepper and toast. It has a long finish and lasting aftertaste. $30

Chianti Classico Riserva 2016 Tenuta Perano, Frescobadi is located in Gaiole in Chianti. Made from Sangiovese and Merlot.  The vineyard is at 500 meters. Grapes are carefully selected and harvested by hand. Fermentation is in stainless steel at a controlled temperature. The cap formed on the surface is broken frequently to ensure perfect polyphonic extraction.  The wine is aged in oak barrels for 24 months and for a time in the bottle before release. The wine has hints of violets, red berries, and leather with floral notes and a touch of pepper. $32

Tenuta Lilliano

The property was acquired in 1920 by Baron Beringieri.  In 1958 the first Lilliano wines were bottled for sale at the hands of Princess Eleonora Ruspoli Berlingieri. She was the first to appreciate the potential of Lilliano as a winemaking estate. She was helped by Giulio Gambelli, who has been called the “Sangiovese guru.” T

Alessandro Ruspoli

Today the property is owned by brothers Giulio and Pietro Ruspoli and has been managed by Giulio since 1989. Their nephew Alessandro represents Lilliano internationally. The enologist now is the famous Lorenzo Landi. Alessandro said the Chianti Classico labels bear the Ruspoli and Berlingieri family coat of arms. The current owners of Lilliano reside in the historic Ruspoli Palace in the center of Rome.

Chianti Classico 2021 DOCG made from 90% Sangiovese, 5% Colorino and 5% Merlot. After the quality-selected clusters are destemmed and pressed, the must is fermented and macerated in stainless steel for 18-20 days at a controlled temperature with programmed punch downs and daily pumpovers. Maceration fermentation takes place in concrete and small stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature for 18-20 days depending on the vintage. The wine ages for about 12 to 14 months partly in large casks of French oak and partly in concrete. After maturation, the final blend is assembled, bottled and aged in glass for a minimum of 3 months. This is a wine with hints of red fruit, cherry, violets and a touch of cassis. $21

Chianti Classico Riserva 2019 made from 95% Sangiovese and 5% Merlot from the first selection. After a careful selection the grapes undergo soft pressing and destalking. During fermentation the must is pumped over with plunging of the cap on a daily basis. Maceration lasts for 21 to 25 days depending on the vintage. Malolactic fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks. The wine ages in large casks of French oak 28 to 34HL. The final blend is assembled and the wine ages in glass a minimum of 6 months. The wine has hints of cherry, cassis, violets, and a touch of spice. $30

Le Corti

Duccio Corsini

Duccio Corsini is the owner of Principe Corsini wines and the Villa Le Corti estate which goes back to 1363. He is a counselor for the Chianti Classico Consortium. The Corsini Family is one of the oldest in Italy, going back to the 13th century. One of Duccio’s ancestors, the Cardinal Lorenzo Corsini, became Pope Clemente XII. If you visit the Villa Corsini in Rome you can see a painting of the Pope. In fact it contains one of the most important collections of paintings done after the year 1000 A.D including a painting of Saint John the Baptist by Caravaggio.

Cortevcchia Chianti Classico DOCG 2019 San Casciano in Val di Pesa, Florence. Made from 95% Sangiovese and 5% Colorino. The vineyards are at 270 to 350 meters and the exposure is south. Soil: pliocenic hills rich in river stones and there are 5,800 plants per hectare. The training system is low spurred cordon and the average age of the vines is 25 years old. Harvest was from September 18 to September 29th. Fermentation is for 20 days at 28°C in open-air tanks with temperature control. The grapes are inoculated with select indigenous yeasts. Wine ages in  cement vats for 12 months. The wine has hints of violets, iris, currents, cherries and a touch of pepper.  The winery practices organic viticulture. $35

IGT Chianti Classic Gran Selezione “ZAC” 100% Sangiovese from the Gugliaie vineyard (2.5 ha} with a southern exposure. The exposure is south and the training system is spurred cordon. There are 5,400 vines per hectare. Fermentation is in steel tanks at a controlled temperature for 16 days. It is aged for 18 months mainly in used barriques and 12 months in bottle before release. This is a complex wine with hints of wild berries, violets, cherries, plums, a note of spice and a touch of leather. The wine is dedicated to Anna Corsini, the sister of Prince Tommaso.  Anna Corsini was affectionately called Zac by her grandchildren and great grandchildren. $110

I was happy to see both Duccio and Alessandro again at the James Suckling Great Wines of Italy Event in NYC where I tasted their wines once again.

Gavi the Great White Wine of Piedmont

Gavi Got a New Groove: “The Queen of Piedmont is Growing for the Better.”   This event sponsored by the Consorzio Tutela del Gavi was held at The Midtown Loft & Terrace in NYC.

Lars Leicht, SOMM Journal VP for Education was the speaker.  As usual, Lars gave a very informative presentation and used slides to clarify points for the audience.  I was invited by Irene Ferri of wellcomonline.com

The Consorzio was founded in 1993 and is commissioned by the Ministry of Agriculture to prompt, enhance, and protect the Gavi DOCG denomination in Italy and around the world. The Consorzio has 190 members.

Gavi is one of Piedmont’s most historical and respected white wine producing zones. The Gavi DOCG denomination is located in  south-east Piedmont, along the border with Liguria in the province of Alexandria. Gavi is the main town of the area.  The white wine Gavi is  also known as Gavi di Gavi and Cortese di Gavi. The only difference is that Gavi Di Gavi (Commune DI Gavi ) is grown around the town of Gavi.

Gavi is made from the Cortese grape and only the Cortese grape.  Cortese for Gavi is grown in 11 communes all in the province of Alessandria.

Gavi is made in different styles: Tranquillo (still) which accounts for 99% of the production. Spumante (sparkling) vinified according to the Method Classico with secondary fermentation on the lees in the bottle. Frizzante (slightly sparkling) this traditional Gavi is only made by a handful of producers. Riserva (aged) is meant for aging and is released to the market after one year of which at least 6 months are spent in the bottle.

Gavi production zone

Lars used slides to better explain the soils in the area.

Northern Belt

The red clay soils are found in the northern part of the denomination which has gentle hills.  The red soils here are rich in iron and originated from alluvial deposits accumulated  by the slow erosion of rivers. This is the warmest zone. Lars said the Gavi here has excellent body and structure.

Central Strip

The white clays are from the line that connects Serravalle, Gavi and San Cristoforo. There are alternating layers of marl and sandstone. A mix of clay, sand and pebbles in fluvial terraces, marine formations and rocks from the oceanic crust. Lars said Gavi here has great balance and structure.

Southern Belt

Here the altitude exceeds 400 meter and can go as high as 1,000 meters. Near the Apennines, soils are mostly of metamorphic origin.  Lars said it is a sparsely planted area because of the altitude and steep slopes. We did not taste any wines from this zone.

After the presentation, there was a sit down tasting of 44 Gavi wines all from the 2022 vintage. The 2022 was a very good vintage in Gavi.

Lars suggested we taste the wines from the white soils first, then those from  mixed soils and finally those from the red soils.

We sat at tables and were given pads that had our table and seat numbers. All the bottles were numbered and we wrote down the numbers of the bottles we wanted.  They were brought 6 bottles at a time by the waiter. All Gavi is DOCG and all the wines were from the 2022 vintage. Below are 9 wines: 3 from white soil, 3 from mixed soil, and 3 from red soil. Lars was correct about the order.

Gavi DOCG Commune DI Gavi “Traci “  Tacchino Romina White Soil (White Marl). The vineyard is at 310/350 meters and the exposure is southeast. Pruning system is guyot and there are 4,500 plants per hectare. Fermentation is in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks at 12/14 C. Aging is in stainless steel tanks for at least 3 months and then bottled for the time needed. It has hints of apple, peach, citrus and fresh almonds. $20

Gavi DOCG Del Commune Di Gavi “Vigne Rade” La Toledana White soil (Marn-Calcareus). The vines  are 20 years old and the training system is guyot.  Exposure is southern and the 64 acre vineyard is at 656 ft. Harvest takes place in September. After the harvest, the grapes are destemmed, gently pressed, and the juice is fermented without skins in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature. It is then matured in stainless steel tanks and bottled just a few months after the harvest in order to preserve its freshness. The wine has hints of fresh fruit, white flowers, citrus and bitter almonds.$30

Gavi DOCG Del Comune Di Gavi La Rocchin. White Soil. The vineyards are at 210 meters with a southwest exposure and the vines are 20 to 30 years old. Harvest usually takes place at the end of September. Classical white wine vinification with soft pressing of the grapes and fermentation in steel tanks with selected yeasts. The wine ages in stainless steel for 6 months on the lees and is bottled at the end of February. The wine has hints of citrus, orange blossoms and almonds. $15

Gavi DOCG Commune DI Gavi  “Mainin” La Ghibellina. Mixed Soil.  The training system is guyot with high intensity planting and the exposure is south/east, There are 6 ha of vines at 300 meters and the soil is sedimentary. Fermentation takes place in steel vats at a controlled temperature. Aging is for 4 months in stainless steel vats with stirring of the lees. The wine remains in the bottle for 2 months before release. The wine has hints of white flowers, fresh fruit, chamomile, citrus, wet stone and a hint of lemon zest. $21

Gavi DOCG Ottosoldi Mixed Soil (marlstone and limestone). The vineyard is 5.1 hectares at 250 to 300 meters and the exposure is southwest. There are 5,000 vines per hectare  and the vines are 20 years old. The training system is guyot. Manual harvest is in mid- September. Fermentation in stainless steel. Aging mainly in stainless steel and tonneaux barrels. Malolactic fermentation does not take place. Full bodied with ripe citrus fruit, hints of dried lemon, grapefruit, green apple and white blossoms. $19

Gavi DOCG Del Comune Di Gavi La Smilla Mixed Soil (clay and limestone). The age of the vines is 10 to 20 years old and the training system is guyot. Vinification is in stainless steel. The wine is aged in large barrels for 5 to 10 months and then a minimum of 2 months in bottle before release, This is a crisp full bodied wine wine has hints of citrus, honeysuckle and tropical fruit. $18

Gavi DOCG Del Comune Di Gavi Rovereto Michele Chiarlo Red Soil (Dark red clay marl) with the presence of stones. The 5 hectare vineyard is 25 years old and is at 400/500 meters with a southeast exposure. Manual harvest. The wine has hints of white flowers, golden apple, mineral notes and a touch of candied orange skins. $28

Gavi DOCG Comune Del Tassarolo “Terrarossa” La Zerba Red Soil (Clay). The vineyards are at 280-300 meters and the exposure is south, southwest. The training system is guyot and the method of pruning is Simonit & Sirch. Average age of the vines is 30 years. Harvest is in mid-September and it is exclusively by hand. Fermentation is for one week in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. Fermentation is with skin maceration. Then matured in steel tanks for about 5 months after racking with repeated bâtonnage of the lees. The wine remains in the bottle for 3 months before release. The wine has hints of citrus, peach, pear and white flowers. $22

Gavi DOCG “IL Forte” Produttori Del Gavi. Red soil (red clay based alluvial).  The vineyards are at 200 to 300 meters and the exposure is southeast. There are 4,500 plants per hectare and the training system is guyot. The vines are 30 years old. Harvest tales place in the middle of September. Fermentation is in temperature controlled steel tanks for 20 days. Aging is in temperature controlled steel tanks of ay least 3 months on the lees. The wine remains in bottle for one month before release. The wine has hints of pear, peach apricot and yellow plum with a mild almond finish. $14