Una Pizza Napoletana

Michele and I first heard about the pizza of Anthony Mangieri almost 20 years ago when he opened Una Pizza Napoletana in the East Village in Manhattan.  Knowing of our great interest in pizza we were told  by friends that we must go there. We went a few times and then lost track of Mr. Mangieri when he moved out of NYC. He opened other pizza places outside NYC and always got excellent reviews.

In March of 2022 Mr. Mangieri opened his now only location of Una Pizza Napoletana on the Lower East Side of Manhattan. It opened to rave reviews and quickly became wildly popular.  The restaurant was awarded the #1 spot on the 50 Top Pizza’s 2022 global ratings.

Recently Michele and I went with Louis Coluccio of Brooklyn’s A.L.C. Italian Grocery, who supplies Mr. Mangieri with many of the top quality ingredients he uses for his pizza.

Anthony Mangieri was born in New Jersey and  grew up in a close-knit Italian-American family.  He developed a pizza obsession from a young age, persuading his mother to drive him to every well-known pizzeria in the tri-state area. This developed into a lifelong dedication to creating the perfect pizza—something that he remains steadfastly dedicated to every day. 

We started with some appetizers including a salad of roasted peppers with garlic, capers, herbs and olive oil.

 

Then we had shared a platter of cold cuts, including mortadella, prosciutto and salame as well as a bowl of olives marinated with herbs and EVOO.

Next we had four pizzas.

The first was a Margherita made with San Marzano Tomatoes, Bufala Mozzarella DOP, Fresh Basil, Sicilian Sea Salt, and EVOO.   

Pizza with mozzarella, cherry tomatoes and arugula was next.

Then we had a Pizza Marinara with San Marzano Tomatoes, Amalfi Wild Oregano, Garlic, Basil, Sicilian Sea Salt, EVOO.

We ended with a pizza with Yellow Cherry Tomatoes, Mozzarella and Basil

With the pizza, we drank Costa d’Amalfi DOC “Tramonti” Cantina Giuseppe Apicella, a perfect combination.

Dessert was a unique Cremolata di Mandorle, creamy almond sorbetto topped with whipped cream.

Mr Mangieri also sells a delicious Panettone, made to his specifications in collaboration with Infermentum, which he imports from Italy.

All of the pizzas and appetizers are made with extra virgin olive oil imported from the Campania region of Italy.  

I spoke to Anthony who said that he and his assistants make a limited amount of dough every morning, and “when we’re sold out, we’re sold out.”  But they always reserve dough for walk-ins, so come by even if you don’t have reservations.  They reserve 1 pizza per person for reservations. Reservations open up at 9am each morning for 2 weeks in advance. All bookings are available on Resy and the largest party they can currently accommodate is 4 guests, outside of private events. To inquire about private events go to  unapizza.com.

Una Pizza Napoletana is open Thursday, Friday and Saturday from 5pm until sold out (last seating is at 9:15pm).

175 Orchard Street NY, NY

646-476-4457

Reservations suggested

 

A Classic Italian Combination: Asti Spumante and Panettone.

Bread and butter, wine and cheese:  some things are just meant to go together.  Asti Spumante and Panettone belong on that list of perfect combinations.

Asti Spumante DOCG and Moscato d’Asti DOCG come from the Moscato Bianco (Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains) strain of grapes.  It is one of the oldest known varieties of wine grapes and grows in the Piedmont regions of Langhe-Roero and Monferrato. The zone is located between the Ligurian Coast and the Alps.

Moscato d’Asti is made from the same grape as Asti Spumante and has many of the same flavors and aromas. It is also low in alcohol, around 5% by volume. The difference is that Moscato d’Asti is only slightly sparkling (frizzante) and it is vintage dated, while Asti Spumante is not dated and is considered a Spumante. Moscato d’Asti should be drunk as close to the vintage date as possible. The two wines share the same DOCG.

For Asti Spumante the grapes are refrigerated at zero degrees until they reach a second fermentation, a process that can be accomplished either according to the “Martinotti Method” or  the complex “Classico Method.” Recently, the range of residual sugars has been expanded from traditional sweet to extra dry, from brut to pas dosé. Asti Spumante is known world wide as a sparkling wine to be drunk every time there is a reason to celebrate.

For Moscato d’Asti, there is a gentle pressing of the grape bunches by a pneumatic press. The must is clarified in order to eliminate the solid residue and any other undesired components it may contain. Alcoholic fermentation takes place through the addition of select yeasts at a controlled temperature.  The limpid and cooled must is poured into large tanks and repeatedly filtered to prevent spontaneous fermentation. Moscato d’Asti does not go through a second fermentation in the bottle.  Instead, the second fermentation is performed in a single tank (autoclave) using the Martinotti method, in which bubbles are trapped in the wine via carbonation in the tank. Yeasts are eliminated by filtration or centrifugation. The wine is then kept in cooling tanks at about -3C so that fermentation does not start.  At the time of bottling, the temperature is raised until fermentation begins.  It is stopped at about 5% alcohol. Fermentation can be stopped and then started so that the wine can be bottled several times a year. This aromatic wine should be enjoyed young when it is at its freshest.

Both Moscato d’Asti and Asti Spumante have aromas of apricot, pear, peach, honeysuckle, mandarin orange, jasmine and white flowers.

I was able to taste and enjoy both wines along with traditional Panettone from Brooklyn’s own Settepani Bakery.

Panettone is a sweet Italian traditional Christmas cake. It comes in many different varieties and can contain raisins, nuts, chocolate, candied citrus and other fruits, and more.  Some are iced while others are glazed or topped with sugar crystals,

Chef Bilena Settepani from Settepani supplied the Panettone

We were served slices of three different varieties of panettone and I enjoyed them all.

Here are just a few of the wines I tasted:  

Balbi Soprani Asti Dolce

Caudrina La Salvatica Asti (Label by the late legendary grappa producer Romano Levi)

Ceretto I Vignaioli di San Stefano Moscato d’Asti

Bava Bass Tuba Moscato d’Asti

Braida (Giacomo Bologna) “Vigna Senza Nome” Moscato D’ Asti

Panettone with Asti Spumante or Moscato d’Asti is the perfect way to entertain guests this holiday season.

Entertaining with Cheese, Olive Oil and Wine

Around this time of year, a great and easy way was to entertain guests is with a cheese plate or charcuterie board.  Recently, I tried some cheeses that were new to me.  They were made by Monti Trentini, a family-run business located in the Trentino Region of Northern Italy.  The company was founded in 1925 and there have been four generations of cheese makers.

The company’s exceptionally long tradition in the production of cheese made from the milk of mountain grazing cows from the Dolomites Mountains gives the cheese a unique fragrances of herbs and a distinctive yellow color.  Here are the three cheeses that I tried.

LagoraiThe Lagorai Mountain region of the Dolomites gives this traditional cheese its name.  It’s texture is semi soft and the flavor is mild and pleasant with the subtle aromas of herbs and mountain flowers.  Lagorai is produced with full-fat milk and aged over 40 days. The rind is thin and elastic while the cheese is pale yellow or white with distinctive irregular holes.  Serve it at room temperature with fresh or dried fruit and nuts.

Mountain Herbs Caciotta

This delicious cheese is made from cow’s milk and flavored with aromatic mountain herbs.  It is a semi-sweet cheese and is aged for at least 5 days.  Serve it with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil or honey.

Sharp Provolone PDO

This Italian classic  sharp cheese is aged for 6 months and has a strong and partially spicy taste. This provolone comes from cow’s milk from a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO), ensuring excellent quality.  Serve provolone with salami or other charcuterie.

 

Frescobaldi Laudemio Olive Oil

I have been drinking the excellent wine from Frescobaldi for a number of years now and Michele likes to use their Laudemio Extra Virgin Olive Oil in the kitchen.  Laudemio Extra Virgin Olive Oil has aromas of just mown grass, artichoke hearts and notes of green olives. There is a nice balance between a notable bitterness, spiciness, and a long lasting fruitiness.  Full flavored Laudemio olive oil from Frescobaldi is the perfect oil to use with fresh cheeses, as well as a finishing oil for salads, soups and other dishes.

In the Middle Ages, Laudemio was the name of the best part of the harvest, destined for the landlord’s table. It comes from the Latin word “laude,” meaning praise or excellence.

The symbol on the label is that of an Etruscan athlete signifying health and fitness  though a healthy lifestyle.  The ancient Etruscans lived in an area roughly corresponding to today’s Tuscany.

On the Frecobaldi Estate in Tuscany  there are 300 hectares of olive groves at altitudes between 200 and 500 meters. The olive harvest begins in October and stops before the end of  November. The olives are pressed within a few hours from picking in the Frescobaldi mill in Castello Nipozzano. A rigid selection is made and only the finest extra virgin olive oil is selected to become Laudemio Frescobaldi.

Frescobaldi Wines

Nipozzano Vecchie Viti Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2020 Frescobaldi. Made from Sangiovese and complementary varieties from the oldest vines on the Castello Nipozzano estate which have a very deep root structure. After harvesting, the grapes are transferred to the cellar immediately. They are destemmed and spontaneous fermentation takes place in cement tanks. Maceration is for 20 days with frequent pumping over of the must.  The wine remains in the vats to complete maceration.  The wine is aged for 24 months in oak barrels according to the ancient Tuscan tradition, then bottled for a time until it is ready to be released. This wine has hints of cherry, blackberry, blueberry, balsamic, and a touch of violet.

Entertaining holiday guests is easy with Montini Trentini cheeses, Frescobaldi Extra Virgin Olive Oil and Frescobaldi wines.

Azienda Agricola Provveditore-Wines of the Maremma

Recently I received samples of five wines from the Azienda Agricola Provveditore thanks to Federica Schir. I knew of the winery and now I have the chance to taste their wines.

The winery is located  very close to the town of Scansano  in the green hills of the Maremma in the region of Tuscany.

The winery is owned by the Bargagli Family and their history really began when Alessandro Bargagli began the shift from bulk wine to bottled wine in the 1970’s.  Today Christina Bargagli, fourth generation, is the manager of this family run winery and her father Alessandro is the agronomist .

There are  almost 40 hectares of vineyards which are at 350 meters and 5,000 olive trees. The soil is skeletal-rich tuffaceous limestone.  The vines are 20 to 30 years old. All the grapes are hand harvested.The red grapes are cordon speronate-trained and the white grapes guyot.

Maremma Toscana DOC 2021 100 %100 “La Territorialità” made from 100% Ansonica (aka Insolia). There is a careful selection of the grapes which then undergo a cooling down process. After a long cold pellicular maceration the grapes are not pressed so only the free run juice is used. Only indigenous yeast, the yeast present on the grapes, is used. Fermentation is in stainless steel for about 3 months at a controlled temperature. The wine remains on the lees with periodic pumping over until the beginning of spring. The wine has a Stelvin twist off cap. This is a crisp fresh white wine with hints of pear, ginestra (broom), rosemary and a nuts.

Maremma Toscana DOC  2020 IL Bargaglino made from 85% Vermentino and 15% Trebbiano Toscano, Chardonnay, Sauvignon and Ansonica.  Cooling down of the grapes takes place in a conditioned environment followed by a long pellicular maceration. Fermentation is in stainless vats at a controlled temperature for about 3 months. The wine remains on the lees with periodic pumping over until the beginning of spring.  The wine is bottled and sealed with a Stelvin screw cap. The wine has hints of oramge blossoms, thyme, a hint of coconut and a touch of almond. $11

Morellino di Scansano

Alessandro Bargagli was one of the first to make and promote Morellino di Scansano and was the first president of the Consortium.

Morellino di Scansano does not need to age in wood and can be released in March after harvest, meaning that it can be found on the shelf at less than 8 months old, thus a fresh and crisp wine.

Morellino di Scansano Riserva can be released on 1 January two years after the harvest, at least one of which it has to age in wood.

It must be made from 85% Sangiovese and 15% from non aromatic approved red grape varieties.

Morellino di Scansano DOC 2022 IRIO DOCG made from 90% Sangiovese and 10% Merlot and Syrah. After a careful selection of grapes vinification is closely linked to the Scansanese method with temperature control. The wine is aged is stainless steel and in bottle before release. The wine has hints of violets, green pepper, cloves, cherry, licorice and tobacco leaves.

Morellino di Scansano DOC 2018 “Provveditore” DOCG made from 100% Sangiovese. There is a selection of the best grapes. Traditional Scansanese vinification with about ten days of maceration at a controlled temperature. The wine is aged in barriques for 4 to 7 months and in bottle for about 6 months before release. It can age for about 12 years. The wine has hints of cherries, dry figs, cocoa cinnamon a hint of red pepper and roasted coffee.

Morellino di Scansano Riserva 2017 DOCG “Primo” made from 85 Sangiovese and 15% Alicante and Cabernet Sauvignon. Traditional Scansanese vinification with long maceration for 21 days. The wine is aged for 18 months in barriques and 8 months in bottle before release. The wine will age for at least 15 years. The wine has hints of toasted tobacco, licorice, vanilla, a touch of black pepper and a hint of roasted coffee. $28

Tasting Aglianico & Taurasi from Donnachiara Winery

I have known the dynamic Ilaria Petitto, CEO of Donnachiara Winery, for a number of years and have visited her winery on a few occasions.  Recently Ilaria was in New York and invited me to a luncheon and tasting of her wines with the intriguing title of “Long Live Aglianico-Based Wines, Taurasi the King of Southern Italy.”  The event was held at Gramercy Tavern in New York’s Flatiron District.

Illaria is a leading supporter of the wines of Campania and the wines of Irpinia in particular and is the Vice President of the Consorzio di Tutela dei Vini dell’Irpinia. She is also involved with Women in Wine.

Ilaria spoke about the Donnachiara Winery and their wines.

The winery is located in Montefalcione in the Irpinia area near Avellino. There are woods of chestnut, oak and juniper that alternate with olive trees, vines and fruit trees.

The modern winery was completed in 2005 but the vineyards have been in the family for over 150 years. Ilaria’s mother, Chiara Petitto, is a big supporter of her work in the winery, which is named after her mother’s grandmother, whom everyone called “Donna” Chiara as a sign of respect. Modern production began in 2005 . Donnachiara is a family business

The consulting oenologist at this time is the legendary Riccardo Cotarella.

It is the philosophy of the winery to preserve the traditional grape varieties of the local territory and to keep the character of the wines from  being lost to the standardization of the wines on the market today. They also follow “Misura CE n.1257/99 – “Produzione integrata della Regione Campania,” limiting the use of some active ingredients that are harmful to the environment.

Agilianco

There are 3 biotypes of Aglianico: Taurasi, Vulture and Taburno.  Aglianico has an uncle-nephew relationship to Syrah.

Aglianico is an ancient grape variety.  In Italy, Aglianico was first planted near modern day Pozzuoli and from there it spread to other parts of Campania. Pliny the Elder (d.79AD) wrote about it in his Natural History. Wine made from Aglianico was called Falernian and was highly regarded by the Romans. The Aglianico grape was known as Elenico (Italian for Greek) until the 15 Century when it began to be called Aglianico. The name might also come from vita hellenica, Latin for Greek wine. The debate still goes on.

The Aglianico grape prefers volcanic soil and grows at altitudes of 300 to 500 meters. It is a black late-ripening grape.  Aglianico is also used as a blending grape in Campania. It is at its best in Irpinia.  Irpinia Aglianico was granted DOC in 2005. It must contain 85% Aglianico and 15% other red grapes.

Greco di Tufo (yellow), Finao di Avelliano(green) and Taurasi (red). DOCG Irpinia

Taurasi

There are many who believe that the three great grape varieties in Italy are Nebbiolo, Sangiovese and Aglianico. Wines made from the Aglianico grape are full-bodied with good fruit, tannins, and hints of blackberries, leather and smoke.

Aglianico reaches its highest expression in the form of Taurasi, one of Italy’s great red wines, which can age for many years.

The Taurasi DOCG was formed in 1993 and was southern Italy’s first DOCG.  Taurasi  is a medieval city located within the larger Iripinia DOC and within the province of Avellino, Taurasi’s name comes from taurus, the mythical bull that was the symbol for the ancient Samnite (pre-Roman) occupants.

Taurasi DOCG and Taurasi Riserva DOCG by law must be 85% Aglianico but most producers make it with 100% Aglianico. Taurasi must age for 3 years before release and have a minimum of 12% alcohol. At least one of the 3 years must be in oak barrels. The Riserva must be aged for at least 4 years of which 18 months must be in oak barrels. 12.5% is the minimum alcohol.

There are 17 communes where Taurasi is produced and they cover different soils, vineyard altitudes and microclimates.

Campania Aglianico IGT 2022 made from 100% Aglianico. The soil is clay, the training system is guyot and the harvest takes place in the first half of November. Malolatic fermentation takes place in barriques for 3 months. Ilaria said this is a fresh and pleasant wine due to a small number of  “follature” (pumping overs) and to a short period of maceration on the skins.  Malolactic fermentation is in barriques for 3 months. It is a wine that is elegant, warm and perfect with many different foods. The wine is fruity with hints of blackberries, strawberries and a touch of toast.  This is a wine that should be drunk young.

Irpinia Aglianico DOC 2021. The soil is clay, the training system is guyot and the harvest takes place the first two weeks in November. Fermentation takes place at 68 to 71F in stainless steel tanks for 15 days. Maturation is on the skins for 10 days. Malolactic fermentation is in barriques. The wine is full and complex with hints of prune, berries, spice and fig. Drink after 5 years or more.

Taurasi DOCG 2020 Made from 100% Aglianico. The soil is clay and volcanic. Training system is guyot. There are 4,000 plants per hectare and harvest takes place the first week of September. The wine is aged for 12 months in 225-liter French barriques and remains in the bottle for another 24 months before release. The use of barrique is subtle and does not mask the character of the wine. This is a big complex wine with berry aromas and flavors, hints of cherry, plum, and a touch of cacao and coffee.  In general this vintage had a slightly lower crop than normal, but grapes were of good quality with nice acidity.

Taurasi DOCG 2019 Made from 100% Aglianico. The soil is clay and volcanic. Training system is guyot. There are 4,000 plants per hectare and harvest takes place the first half of of November. The wine is aged for 12 months in 225-liter French barriques and remains in the bottle for another 24 months before release. The use of barrique is subtle and does not mask the character of the wine. This is a big complex wine with berry aromas and flavors, hints of blueberries, plum,  bitter chocolate a touch of leather and a hint of smoke.

Taurasi Riserva DOCG 2019 made from 100% Aglianico. The soil is clay, training system is guyot and the harvest takes place the first half of November. This wine is produced only in the best vintages. There is manual grape picking, a careful cluster selection followed by a soft pressing of the grapes. Maturation is on the skins for 20 days. Malolactic fermentation takes place in barriques. This is a full intense wine with hints of blackberry,  blueberry  a hint of smoke  and coffee notes. It is on its way to becoming a great wine with a little more bottle age.  The wine will last for at least 15 to 20 years.

2019 was an outstanding vintage with wonderful climatic conditions. There was a large crop and the wines have very good acidity.The wine has won many awards.

 Taurasi Riserva DOCG 2018 made from 100% Aglianico. The soil is clay, training system is guyot and the harvest takes place the first half of November. This one is produced only in the best vintages. There is manual grape picking, a careful cluster selection followed by a soft pressing of the grapes. Maturation is on the skins for 20 days. Malolactic fermentation takes place in barriques. This is a  wine with hints of blackberry, plum, cherry and coffee notes.

The wines 2018 in general are unbalanced, with low acidity and the harvest was very small in size. However I did not find this with the 2018 Donnachiara Taurasi. While it may not last as long as the 2019, I would not drink it for at least 10 to 12 years.

Donnachiara also produces excellent white wines: Greco di Tufo, Fiano  di Avellino and Falanghina, all of which I have tasted and enjoyed on many occasions.