Visiting CasaSetaro Winery on Mt. Vesuvio

 

Two years ago when Michele and I were in Rome  I was contacted by Massimo Setaro owner/wine maker of the CasaSetaro winery in Campania. We made an appointment to meet at a restaurant in Rome for lunch to taste his wines. He invited us to visit him at the winery the next time we were in Naples.

This yeart Massimo came and drove us to the winery

Lower vineyard: Tufa and higher vegetation

As Michele and I  stood in the vineyard Massimo said the winery is located on the slopes of Mt. Vesuvius in Trecase. All the vineyards are located inside the Vesuvius National Park.

He spoke about the terroir and said it is volcanic and sandy with a layer of lava on the surface and volcanic stone. There is a mineral character present in the wines. This composition of the soil makes the vines immune to phylloxera so the vines are not grafted on to American root stock. Pointing to a vine he said if phylloxera  attacked this plant it would destroy it but would die in the soil before it reached another plant.

The higher vineyard with the Lapilli

The exposure of the vineyards are south/southeast, at 200 to 450 meters. At the lower part of the vineyards the soil in black and packed very tightly and Massimo called it tufa. He grows tall vegetation between the rows  to help feed the vines. Higher up on the volcano the soil has very small pebbles called lapilli which were deposited when the volcano erupted and the vegetation in much shorter.

If you walk to the highest point, you would be surrounded by the forests of the Vesuvius National Park.

Green organic manure is used and the vines are treated only with copper and sulfur. Selected yeast is used in all the wines and the winery uses only their own grapes.

There are 4,500 plants per hectare.

Massimo Satero

Massimo said he had bought a number of oak barriques but does not use them for wine anymore. Now they are used for planters.

He said he learned a lot from his father growing up in the winery where they live. He said he takes care of all the production steps from vineyard management to the final bottling and his wife, Mariarosaria, works at his side.

I was very impressed with the passion in his voice when he spoke about growing up in the winery, the Vesuvius National Park, his wines and that he and his family live at the winery.

The Winesimg_1504

Caprettone Spumante Method Classico 2014 100% Caprettone Production zone Alto Tirone, Vesuvius National Park. The age of the vineyards is 18 to 25 years. They are at 350 meters and the training system is espalier, guyot trained with a few buds per plant. Vinification: maceration at 4 degrees C in steel tanks, fermentation for 18 to 24 days, the second fermentation takes place after about six months. The wine remains on the lees for 30 months and remains in bottle for about 12 months before release.

Last year when I was a judge at Radici del Sud in Puglia, this wine was picked as #1 in the spumante category by the journalist panel of which I was a member.

Massino said the Caprettone grape is excellent for making spumante method classico because it has very good body and produces a round and elegant wine. I have to agree.img_1503

Falanghina Campania IGT “Campanelle” 100% Falanghina del Vesuvio. Production Area: various micro zones within the Vesuvius National Park. The vineyards are at 250 meters and the vines are 18 years old. The training system is espalier with guyot pruning.  The wine has nice citrus aromas and flavors with a touch of minerality. He said the Falangina produced here is very different from the one produced further inland.

Massimo feels that Falanghina does not have the same rich character as the Caprettone. We both agreed however with spaghetti con vongole verace, spaghetti with clams, we would drink the Falanghina. 

Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio DOC Bianco “Munazei” 100% Caprettone. Production zone Vesuvius National Park. The training system is Vesuvian pergola and guyot. Vinification: Maceration in steel tanks at a controlled temperature and fermentation lasts for about 20 days. The wine remains in steel tanks for about 6 months and then in bottle for two months before release. We tasted the 2016 and the 2007 which was not showing any sign of age.

In the last year the law has changed so Massimo can put the grape variety Caprettone on the label.

Michele and I first had wines made from the Caprettone grape a few years ago on the Amalfi Coast and have been drinking them ever since.

Munazei- this is what they called the cold storage rooms built into the mountain where food was kept to prevent spoilage.img_1502

 Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio DOC Rosato “Munazei” 2016 100% Piedirosso. The vineyards are at 300 to 350 meters and the vines are 20 years old. Training system is espalier, guyot and Vesuvian pergola. There is a soft destemming and pressing followed by low temperature skin fermentation in stainless steel tanks at 4 degrees C for about 24 hours. The lees are removed and there is cleaning and controlled temperature fermentation at 10 to 12 degrees C for 18 to 24 days. The wine remains in steel tanks for 3 months and another 2 months in bottle before it is released. It has aromas and flavors of fresh red fruit with hints of cherry, strawberry and raspberry.img_1505

Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Piedirosso DOC 2016 100% Piedirosso. Espalier, guyot training Vesuvian pergola. Vinification: Maturation in stainless steel tanks for 6 months and in bottle for 3 months before release. The wine has hints of dark fruit with touch of blackberries and violets. It is an easy drinking wine that goes very well with food.

Aglicano “Terramalta” IGT 100% Aglianico2016 from the comune di Trecase (NA), Bosco del Merlo and Tirone della Guardia. The vines are 15/25 years old and the training system is guyot and pergola vesuviana. Destemming and soft pressing of the grapes followed by temperature controlled fermentation at 15C and the lees are removed. The wine is aged in stainless steel for 3 months and in small oak barrels for 2 months and in bottle before release. This is a full bodied wine with flavors and aromas of red fruit, balsamic hints, a touch of  licorice and good minerality.

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Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Rosso DOC Riserva “Don Vincenzo”  2013.  Made from 85% Piedirosso and 15% Aglianico. The production area is Tirone della Guardia. The vineyards are at 350 meters and are 30 years old. The training system is espalier, guyot trained. There is a natural selection of the hand picked grapes. Fermentation takes place with skin contact for 12 to 14 days. The wine is then aged for 24 months in French oak tonneau and in bottle for 6 months before release. This is a deeply rich wine with hints of cherries and raspberries with a long finish and pleasing aftertaste. Massimo said this wine is named after his father.

We went with Massimo and his wife to La Notizia, one of the “classic” pizzerias on the Vomero. Massimo is a good friend of the owner Enzo Coccia who planned a menu foe us, but that is another blog.

 

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BELLA NAPOLI February 2018

BELLA  NAPOLI

Parade for MADONNA DELL’ARCO in Spaccanapoli

Man playing a mandoline

Our friend and Guide in Spaccanapoli, Marina Alaimo

This pastry shop claims to make the original style of sfogliatella pastry.

 

The best tomatoes, piennolo from Vesuvius

Giant lemons in the market near Via Toledo

Gambrinus sfogliatella

Pasticceria Scaturchio — Vesuvius in pastry

Musica senza parola nella Galleria

A store in Spaccanapoli that specializes in La Pastiera

The turntable at the nunnery where poor families once left their babies.

A little bit of Egypt on Via Nilo

In the San Martino Museum

Piazza Municipio

Pasta and potatoes at Taverna Santa Chiara

Seafood casserole at Ciro a SantaBrigida

Grilled anchovies at Trattoria San Ferdinando

Paccheri with Seafood

Pizza at Le Notizie

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Domaine Bousquet: Argentinian Wine with a French Twist

There is a Mediterranean restaurant, Lallisse, not far from my apartment that I pass often but for some reason never went into. Recently I was invited to a dinner and tasting of the wines of Domaine Bousquet, a Argentina winery at Lallisse. I knew that Domaine Bousquet is certificated organic and I also knew from friends that Lallisse only serves organic wine and uses organic products; even the Mexican coffee beans are organic. The restaurant has many of  the Domaine Bousquet wines on their list.

Ann Bousquet the owner of the winery, was the speaker and began by telling us something about the winery.

Ann Bousquet

Ann’s father Jean Bousquet is a third generation French wine maker who vacationed in Argentina in 1990. He saw the Gualtallary Valley, a remote arid terrain high in the Tupungato district of the Uno Valley in the Mendoza region. He believed this would be an ideal location for organically grown grapes. Locals dismissed the area as to cool for growing grapes. Bousquet believed it was the perfect place for Old World high acidity and cool climate with New World sunny and fruit forward wines. He purchased land  there in 1997, in 1998 dug a well because it was a very dry area.  He grew grapes, built a modern winery and produced wine. In 2008 Ann joined the company and in 2009 she and her husband moved to Tupungato full time.  They assumed ownership of the 173 acre Domaine Bousquet in 2011.

Ann said the region has an exceptional terroir and ideal weather conditions to produce quality wines from organic grapes. Domaine Bousquet produces wines applying both French and Argentine know how to the wine making process.  The wines are fermented and aged in stainless steel, cement and French oak. They only have used barriques. Since the terroir is so exceptional she wanted to express it in her wines and not have too much oak.  She is committed to organic agriculture and improving the land’s biodiversity. She said that the healthier the vineyards the better the fruit and of course the wine.

Sparkling Rose NV Charmat method made from 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay from their own vineyards in Tupungato, Alto Gualtallary by the foothills of the Andes at 4,000 ft. The soil is gravel and sand. Manual harvest is during the third week of February. Fermentation is with selected yeast at a maximum temperature of 13C/15C for 15 days. Secondary fermentation is in steel tanks. Residual Sugar is 12g/ and the alcohol is 12%. The wine is fruity with delicate bubbles, hints of red fruit and citrus notes.   $13

Ann said because of the high altitude of the vineyards at 4,000 feet,  the nights are fresh and cool which helps to preserve the fresh fruit flavor and acidity in the grapes.

Chardonnay Reserve 2016 made from 100% Chardonnay from their vineyards in the Tupungato (Uco Valley) at 4000 ft. one of the highest points in Mendoza. 30% of the wine has been aged in used French oak barrels for 10 months and 4 months in bottle before release. Alcohol is 13.5%. $18

Gaia Red Blend 2015 made from 50% Malbec, 45% Syrah and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. There is a manual harvest: for the Syrah the 2nd week of April, Malbec the 3rd week of April, and the Cabernet Sauvignon 4th week of April. There is a cold fermentation for 72 hours. Fermentation is with selected yeast at a maximum temperature of 27C for 12 days. Maceration is for 14 days and the wine is aged in used French barrels for 10 months. This is a fruity wine with aromas and flavors of black fruit with a hint if blueberries and a touch of spice Alcohol is 14%.  $20

Pinot Noir Reserve 2016  100% Pinot Noir. Manual harvest the first week of March. There is a cold fermentation at 8C for 72 hours with selected yeast between 20C and 25 C for 15 days and 10 days of additional maceration. Aged in French oak for 10 months. Alcohol is 14.5%. This is an elegant well-balanced red wine with hints of strawberry and cherry. It really tasted like a Pinot Noir. $18

Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 made from 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Malbec. Ann said by law a wine must contain at least 85% of the grape varietal that is on the label. $18There is a manual harvest during third and fourth week of April. Cold maceration is at 10C for 48 hours. Fermentation with selected yeasts at a temperature of 25C to 27 C for 10 days and 10 days of additional maceration. Aged in French oak for 10 months.$18

Gran Reserve Malbec 2015 Made from 85% Malbec, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5 % Merlot and 5% Syrah. There is a manual harvest during the third and fourth week April. Cold maceration lasts for 48 hours. Fermentation is with select yeasts at a temperature of 25C/27C for 10 days and 14 days of additional. The grapes are macerated, and malolactic fermentation takes place. The wine is aged in used French oak for 10 months. The wine had aromas and flavors of red fruit with hints of strawberry and a touch of spice. Alcohol is 14%. $25

 

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Thinking of Bella Napoli

 

Sitting in a hotel near the Charles De Gaulle airpot looking at pictures of Naples. My flight to Naples was cancelled so I am looking at the snow when I should be in Bella Napoli. Hope we can get there tomorrow.  Update now I am at the Air France lounge, still looking at the snow but hope to be in Napoli today.

Naples is the most exciting city in Italy. Everywhere you look there is something to see!

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Mt. Vesuvius

 

by Lello Esposito

Pulcinella by Lello Esposito

Group of students asked us to take their picture

Group of students asked us to take their picture.  They shouted “We love America”.

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Castel dell’Ovo

The Carlo Opera House

The San Carlo Opera House.  We went for a tour and saw a mini concert.

 

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Castello di San Martino from the hotel rooftop.

The Pia

The Royal Palace

Naples underground

Naples underground.  A fascinating tour.

at da Donato restaurant

Neapolitan songs at da Donato restaurant

The seal of approval

The seal of approval

 

 

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Pizza anyone?

On the Via Caracciolo.  A little girl dressed as a nurse with a patient for Carnevale.

head-naples

At the Archeological Museum

store-naples

The store for soccer fans

 

naples-bikes

On the street

The wash

Laundry day

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A Taste of Venice with Brindiamo!

Osteria da Fiore is one of the most highly acclaimed restaurants in Venice. Recently Mara Martin, the chef and owner along with her husband Maurizio, visited New York City to offer cooking classes at The Michelangelo Hotel.

Mara and Ornella

Charles and I were delighted to attend a demonstration class and lunch tasting of Mara’s Venetian specialties hosted by Ornella Fado, the charming and dynamic host of the public tv program, Brindiamo! (We watch it every Sunday, and you should too if you are a fan of Italian food and wine.)

Mara’s son Damiano, who manages Mara’s Venetian cooking school and has a Venetian restaurant of his own, accompanied her and translated. The first dish that Mara prepared was a Black Squid Ink Risotto.

Mara explained the ingredients she was using, especially the enormous seppia, which is a member of the squid family.

Jeff Corwin and Mara

Jeff Corwin, a biologist who hosts the ABC-TV show, Ocean Treks, and an old friend of the Martin family, was on hand to describe the differences between seppia and squid which are part of the same family, while Mara made the risotto. Mara stressed the importance of using only the freshest seafood and told us that likes to buy the squid or seppia uncleaned so that she can harvest the ink and use the liver, which are typically discarded in this country by the fishmonger. Both add a lot of flavor and the characteristic color to the risotto.

Once the risotto was done, Mara explained how she makes fish in saor, an iconic Venetian dish, which is typically made with sardines topped with an onion and wine vinegar sauce. The sauce is poured over the fish and left to marinate for several days so that the flavors blend and mellow.

Finally, Mara demonstrated how she makes tiramisu, which is not like any we had ever tried before. Italians usually make tiramisu with raw eggs, but because Mara finds their flavor too heavy and many guests have allergies, she substitutes pureed pumpkin which gives a beautiful color and smooth texture to the creamy filling. And in another break with tradition, Mara uses amaretti cookies soaked in sweet Marsala to layer with the cream rather than lady fingers and coffee.

By this time we were very hungry, and we enjoyed the crostini di baccala mantecato that Mara had made for us with glasses of Prosecco. Baccala is dried or salted cod that is reconstituted by first soaking and then cooking in water. The cooked fish is whipped in an electric mixer with olive oil until it becomes light, fluffy and spreadable on toast.

While Mara cooked, Ornella and the Brindiamo! staffers fielded questions from the observers and filmed Mara’s and Jeff’s responses.

Finally, Ornella invited us to the elegantly set table in a private dining room.

We were served an assortment of dishes that Mara prepares at Osteria da Fiore including the black squid ink risotto, fish in saor,

fried soft shell crabs (called moeche) in a tempura like batter, fresh tuna meatballs with a delicate tomato sauce,

grilled shrimp,

and mozzarella in carozza, deep fried sandwiches stuffed with mozzarella. Finally, there was Mara’s unique tiramisu,

followed by pinza, a cornmeal and raisin cake and cookies.

The wines

We started with La Marca Prosecco

Then the importer/distributor, Tony Margiotta, of Gladiator Wine Distribution, described the wines he had provided. He said that the winery, Castellucci Miano, practices sustainable agriculture. No pesticides or dangerous chemicals are used and the grapes are hand picked. He called it a “natural wine.” He told us that Perricone is Sicily’s oldest existing wine grape going back 2,500 years.

Castellucci Miano, “Miano” DOC,  2016 100% Catarrato, Sicily  The vineyards are located on the slopes of the Madonie Mountains at 700 to 900 meters. The training system is alberello and sapling and the average age of the wines is 20 years. Sandy and clay soil with an alkaline reaction due to active limestone. Harvest takes place in October. Fermentation takes place at a controlled temperature of 16C. The wine remains in stainless steel tanks for 3 months and in bottle for 2 months before release. This is a wine with hints of ripe citrus fruit and red apple with good minerality and acidity.

Tony Margiotta of Gladiatore Wines

Tony said that catarrato means cataract, or waterfall in English because when you swirl the wine in your glass, the wine slowly falls back down to the bottom of the glass like a waterfall with naturally occurring bubbles. These bubbles are not carbonation but a natural characteristic of the Catarratto grape.

Castelluccio Miano “ Perric One”  DOC, 2015 Sicily, 100% Perricone The average age of the vines is 20 to 30 years and the training method is guyot and spur-pruning. Before fermentation, the grapes are dried, then the wine is made using the “ripasso technique”. Traditional red wine fermentation with pump over during the initial spontaneous fermentation stage. Complete malolactic fermentation. The wine is aged for 3 months in steel tanks, then 10 months in small oak barrels and another 6 months in bottle before release. This is a full-bodied red wine with aromas and flavors of dry fruit with a nice aftertaste and long finish

 

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Pizza and Wine at Sorbillo with Alessia Antinori

 

When we had the Fiorano dinner with Alessia Antinori ( https://charlesscicolone.wordpress.com/2018/01/15/drinking-fiorano…alessia-antinori/) at my apartment, I mentioned that I had gone to Sorbillo on the Bowery. Alessia said she would like to go sometime and since I had already made plans with a friend to return, I asked her  to join us.  I also asked her to bring her Alberico Bianco, a very special white wine.

Gegggè was again making the Pizza and we started as we always do with a Margarita. https://charlesscicolone.wordpress.com/2018/01/19/return-to-sorbil…ry-nyc-for-pizza/

Geggè Cozzolino

Antica Margherita / Campania

San Marzano tomatoes, Terre Francescane organic EVOO, fresh mozzarella, basil.

Vecchia Roma /Lazio

Guanciale, pecorino gran cru, fresh mozzarella, San Marzano tomatoes, Terre Francescane organic EVOO.

Scarole / Campania

Calzone pizza with escarole, olives, smoked mozzarella, organic EVOO

Margherita con Salame Piccante/ Campania

Buffalo mozzarella, spicy salami Sam Marzano tomatoes, organic EVOO.

For the last pizza Gegge made a  Marinara

San Marzano tomatoes, garlic, oregano, organic EVOO and he added basil and black olives.

All of the pizza is made with Caputo organic flour

We brought our own wine and there is a reasonable corkage fee.

Alberico Bianco 2013 100% Sémillon

Alessia Antinori with her Alberico Bianco

After a careful manual selection, the best grapes were destemmed and soft pressed. Fermentation in casks and the wine completed its six months of aging in puncheons. The wine was aged in bottle for a minimum of 24 months.  This is an exceptional balanced wine with complex aromas of subtle tropical fruit, hints of citrus fruit and a slight touch of vanilla with a very pleasing finish and a long aftertaste.

Barolo Riserva 1958 Giacomo Borgogno and Figli 100% Nebbiolo. The grapes come from three different cru vineyards: Cannubi, Liste and Fossati. The winery is located in the center of the town of Barolo. The wine is aged at least five years in large oak barrels. This is a wine produced with traditional and natural winemaking methods. Long fermentation and pumping over by hand takes place. Today the Farinetti family that also owns Eataly owns the winery. I have always had very good luck with older vintages of Borgogno. This is a classic traditional Barolo.

Produttoti del Barbaresco 1990 Nebbiolo 1990 this is an elegant Barbaresco with hits of cherry, leather, tea and spice. It is drinking very nicely now but will last.

Victory 2002 1oo% Alicante Mt. Etna, Sicily. The winery does not make wine anymore. I believe the wine is named after Admiral Lord Nelson’s ship, the Victory. The Admiral was given a large estate near Etna and the title the Duke of Bronte. He may have brought the Alicante grape to Sicily.

 

 

 

 

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Michele Chiarlo: Sixty Years of Winemaking in Piedmont

 

Michele Chiarlo’s first vintage was in 1958 and he has been with Kobrand, his importer and distributor for 40 years. In honor of their association Michele brought a 1978 Barolo to a special truffle  dinner and tasting event at New York’s Restaurant Casa L’Apicii.

The speakers were Michele and his son Stefano, the wine maker.

Michele spoke about his years as a producer and the changes that took place in Italian wine.  At first it was difficult it was to sell his wine, especially Barbera, in foreign markets. Buyers all wanted to know tif he made Lambrusco!

Michele Chiarlo

He said he went to Burgundy to learn because they  were more advanced  in their wine making techniques.  He met with other Barolo producers to discuss how they could improve their wines. But it was not until the 1980’s with temperature controlled fermentation and the hype that was generated about Italian wines during that time that Italian wine started to receive the recognition it deserved.

He said his is a family owned and run winery and there are no blends or international varietals produced. Their smallest oak cask in 700 liters.  They now have 110 hectares of vineyards between the Langhe, Monferrato and Gavi.

Michele said Tenuta La Court was acquired in 1995. It is a single parcel of over 20 hectares located on two hills, a size which makes La Court one of the most important in Monferrato. The vineyards which can have the ‘Nizza’ designation are limited to 18 municipalities in Monferrato. The vineyards, which have positions with great exposure (from southeast to southwest), have low yields of 70 quintals per hectare and lie on soils designated astiane sands, consisting of calcareous clay marl of sedimentary marine origin, with a good presence of lime and sand, rich in microelements, in particular magnesium.

Stefano Chiarlo

Stefano,  spoke about the wines.

Barbera “Cipressi” Nizza DOCG 2015 100% Barbara from the Tenuta La Court vineyard. The vineyard is 6 ha at 230 to 280 meters and the vines are of different ages. The training method is guyot and there are about 5,000 vines per hectare and harvest is manual. Vinification is in steel tanks, 10/12 days of maceration with the skins and a soft shower system of wetting the cap with initial temperature of 30 degrees C then to 27 degrees C. Malolactic fermentation is in steel. The wine ages for a minimum of 18 months: 12 months in large oak casks and 6 months in bottle before release. The wine has aromas and flavors of red fruit, with hints of cherry and raspberry and a note of tobacco.

Stefano said 2015 was a dry warm vintage with a lot of sun, perfect conditions for growing Barbera.

Barbera d’Asti Superiore “La Court” Nizza DOCG 2013 100% Barbera from a 3-hectare vineyard. The exposure is south/south east at 240 meters. Very low yield.  Thinning of excess bunches at the end of the summer, leaving an average of 5/6 bunches per vine. Fermentation is for 15 days in 55 hl oak vats with the skins. Malolactic vat fermentation takes place. The wine is aged for a minimum of 30 months depending on the vintage. 50% in casks and 50% in large barrels for one year, the wine remains in bottle until release.

This is an intense and elegant wine with hints of black cherry with a touch of coffee and cocoa and a pleasing finish and long aftertaste.

He also said the La Court Cru is part of the V.I.V.A. Sustainable Wine project.

Barbera Nizza must be aged at least 18 months and at least 30 months for the Nizza DOCG Riserva

Barbera d’Asti Superiore DOCG” La Court” Nizza 2011 The wine has hints of black cherry and spice. Stefano said like 2015 the weather was hot, dry and sunny making it a great Barbera vintage.

Stefano said the Cerequio vineyard is between La Mora and Barolo. It is one of the most prestige vineyards in the zone for Nebbiolo. They have nine hectares of vineyards , about 6 of which ere acquired in 1988 from an estate which had been cultivating Nebbiolo grapes for over two centuries without interruption. The oldest parcel is from 1972 and the smallest 0.9 ha, they make Barolo Cerequio Riserva. Stefano said the soils here are among the most ancient in the Langhe, formed during the Tortanian period (9 million years ago). It is composed calcareous clay marl of sedimentary marine origin characterized by a basic pH, poor in organic matter, but rich in microelements such as magnesium and manganese.

Barolo “Cerequio” 2013.  Stefano called this the “use to be” vintage because they picked late like they did in the past. It is a wine that will last for many years. The vineyard is 3 ha and the exposure is south/southwest at 329 meters. The training system is guyot and there are 4,500 plants per hectare. Fermentation is in 55hl oak vats for 20 days. The wine is aged for a minimum of 3 years, 2 years in average-sized oak casks and one year in bottle before release. This is a young complex wine with hints of mature fruit, mint and spice with a touch of tea.

2001 One could see the relationship between the 2013 and the 2001. It has developed very nicely but it still needs at least another 5 years.

 1997 The wine is still showing a lot fruit but now has hits of violets, tobacco, balsamic and a touch of tar. This is the wine to drink now and I enjoyed ever drop of it!!

 The dinner: Chef Vincenzo La Corte, Palàs Cerequio, Piedmont and Chef Andrew Bosi Casa Apicii, NYC.

Barbera d’ Asti “Le Orme” 16 Months DOCG 2015 a selection from several vineyards in the South Aegean, with especially from the vineyards of Montemareto in Castelnuovo Calcea, La Serra in Montaldo Scarampi and Cosra della Momache ad Agliano. The soil is light colored, rich in lime and microelements. Training system is guyot, low set cordon spur. Harvest is manual. Minimum of 16 months refinement before it is released. This is an elegant wine with fresh mature fruit with hints of cherry, currants and a touch of violet and good acidity. I tasted the wine and was very impressed. it reminded of Barbera that I had when I first came to Piedmont in 1982. It is a wine to drink now and very food friendly.

Traditional steak tartare-Alba White Truffle (Tuber Magnatum Pico).

Barolo Tortoniano DOCG 2013 The exposure is south-east/south-west and the training system is guyot. The manual harvest is preceded by summer thinning of excess bunches of grapes. Fermentation is in steel tanks with the skins, and a soft shower system of wetting the cap at a temperature between 32C/27. Malolactic fermentation is in steel tanks. The wine is aged for a minimum of 3 years, 24 months in average sized oak barrels and then in bottle. This is an elegant Barolo with hints of roses, juniper berries, spice and a hint of tobacco.

Risotto with roasted quail & sweet potato with shaved Alba White Truffle

Barolo DOCG 1978 This is a great old Barolo made from grapes from different vineyards and a tribute to Michele Chiarlo.

Braised veal cheek with Barolo sauce and apple puree.

Moscato d’ Asti “Nivole” DOCG 2017 100% White Moscato vineyards are in the historical area most suited for Moscato Bianco. The soil is of sedimentary marine orogon, white and sandy. Training system is guyot and the exposure is south-east/southwest. Manual harvest. There is a soft pressing of the entire grape and the must is stored in a tank at 2C followed by a slow fermentation in an autoclave at a controlled temperature until a 5% alcohol level is achieved. During this process, a part of the carbon dioxide developed during fermentation remains entrapped, giving the wine its mild, natural effervescence. Before bottling, the wine undergoes a process of microfiltration to give the wine its clarity, purity and to stop and further fermentation of the yeasts. This is a wine with hints of subtle tropical fruit and apricot with a very pleasing finish and long aftertaste.

Hazelnut parfait with an almond cream and cocoa

 

 

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