Fattorie Isola: Organic Sardinian Wines

A few weeks ago Michele and I were in Florence for the day and met with Elisa Bosco. We have know Elisa, who is an export communications consultant for wineries for a number of years. Elisa wanted to tell us about a winery she represents in Sardinia and leave us some samples.  It’s always a pleasure to see her, catch up and try some of the wines she represents.

The Winery

Fattorie Isola was founded in 2018 by Luigi Cuccaru with the help of the oenologist Renzo Panetto. It is based in Sardinia in the province of Sassari, municipality of Sorso, locality of Tres Montes, an area well suited for the cultivation of organic grapes. There are 8.5 hectares of vineyards.

All the wines are certified organic and they use as little SO2 as possible to ensure the stability and longevity of the wine. The alcoholic fermentation and all the oenological practices to obtain the wines respect the protocols provided for in EU Regulation 203/2012 for organic wines.

The Wines

Sardegna Semidano Superiore 2023 DOP made from 100% Semidano. There is a short cold maceration of the must before fermentation. This a fragrant fruity white wine with hints of peach, apricot, floral notes and fresh acidity. It is a native white grape from central Sardegna (Campidano). Semidano almost disappeared during the 80’s, but then, especially thanks to the work of Fattorie Isola’s oenologist, it was preserved. However it is a very limited production and today there are just a few hectares in the whole island (less than 14), and only a few producers who make wines from this grape. I have to thank Elisa for introducing me to this wine. $15

Vermentino DI Sardegna 2023 DOP made from 100% Vermentino grapes left on the vine until the end of September so the grapes are very ripe. The soil is sandy, clayey and loamy and the average age of the vines is 25 years. There are 4,000 vines per hectare.  Training system is guyot. Hand harvest with sorting of the grapes in the field into boxes and the grapes are cooled to +5° C for 48 hours before vinification, with a further 12 hours of cold maceration of the skins after pressing. Fermentation is in 100 HL stainless steel tanks with selected yeast. Malolactic fermentation does not take place.  Aging is in steel tanks. $24

Cannonau DI Sardegna. 2022  DOP made from 100% Cannonau grapes harvested well ripeened at the end of summer.  Vineyards are at 150 meters and the soil is granite. The harvest is manual in boxes and the grapes are cooled to +10/12°C before vinification to slow down the start of fermentation. The vinification takes place in thermo-conditioned containers with maceration of the skins for 14/15 days. The wine has hints of cherries, raisins, myrtle and a hint of liquorice.    $15

Cannonau Di Sardegna 2021 DOP Riserva made from 100% Cannonau.  These grapes are grown organically in the LUIGI CUCCARU vineyard in Tres Montes in the municipality of Sorso (SS) IT. One year after vinification, the wine is aged in oak tonneaus for approximately 6/8 months before being bottled. The wine has hints of morello cherries, raisins, myrtle and a touch of vanilla. $20

They also make a Rosato DOP from Cannonau di Sardegna grapes and a Spumante Brut “Kessa” DOP from Vermentino di Sardegna grapes.

For more information on the winery and the wines contact:

ElisaBosco.Wine

Export & Communication Consulting

eb@elisabosco.wine

ITA +39 334 1588164

USA +1 646 593 8886

http://www.elisabosco.wine

Azienda Agricola Provveditore-Wines of the Maremma

Recently I received samples of five wines from the Azienda Agricola Provveditore thanks to Federica Schir. I knew of the winery and now I have the chance to taste their wines.

The winery is located  very close to the town of Scansano  in the green hills of the Maremma in the region of Tuscany.

The winery is owned by the Bargagli Family and their history really began when Alessandro Bargagli began the shift from bulk wine to bottled wine in the 1970’s.  Today Christina Bargagli, fourth generation, is the manager of this family run winery and her father Alessandro is the agronomist .

There are  almost 40 hectares of vineyards which are at 350 meters and 5,000 olive trees. The soil is skeletal-rich tuffaceous limestone.  The vines are 20 to 30 years old. All the grapes are hand harvested.The red grapes are cordon speronate-trained and the white grapes guyot.

Maremma Toscana DOC 2021 100 %100 “La Territorialità” made from 100% Ansonica (aka Insolia). There is a careful selection of the grapes which then undergo a cooling down process. After a long cold pellicular maceration the grapes are not pressed so only the free run juice is used. Only indigenous yeast, the yeast present on the grapes, is used. Fermentation is in stainless steel for about 3 months at a controlled temperature. The wine remains on the lees with periodic pumping over until the beginning of spring. The wine has a Stelvin twist off cap. This is a crisp fresh white wine with hints of pear, ginestra (broom), rosemary and a nuts.

Maremma Toscana DOC  2020 IL Bargaglino made from 85% Vermentino and 15% Trebbiano Toscano, Chardonnay, Sauvignon and Ansonica.  Cooling down of the grapes takes place in a conditioned environment followed by a long pellicular maceration. Fermentation is in stainless vats at a controlled temperature for about 3 months. The wine remains on the lees with periodic pumping over until the beginning of spring.  The wine is bottled and sealed with a Stelvin screw cap. The wine has hints of oramge blossoms, thyme, a hint of coconut and a touch of almond. $11

Morellino di Scansano

Alessandro Bargagli was one of the first to make and promote Morellino di Scansano and was the first president of the Consortium.

Morellino di Scansano does not need to age in wood and can be released in March after harvest, meaning that it can be found on the shelf at less than 8 months old, thus a fresh and crisp wine.

Morellino di Scansano Riserva can be released on 1 January two years after the harvest, at least one of which it has to age in wood.

It must be made from 85% Sangiovese and 15% from non aromatic approved red grape varieties.

Morellino di Scansano DOC 2022 IRIO DOCG made from 90% Sangiovese and 10% Merlot and Syrah. After a careful selection of grapes vinification is closely linked to the Scansanese method with temperature control. The wine is aged is stainless steel and in bottle before release. The wine has hints of violets, green pepper, cloves, cherry, licorice and tobacco leaves.

Morellino di Scansano DOC 2018 “Provveditore” DOCG made from 100% Sangiovese. There is a selection of the best grapes. Traditional Scansanese vinification with about ten days of maceration at a controlled temperature. The wine is aged in barriques for 4 to 7 months and in bottle for about 6 months before release. It can age for about 12 years. The wine has hints of cherries, dry figs, cocoa cinnamon a hint of red pepper and roasted coffee.

Morellino di Scansano Riserva 2017 DOCG “Primo” made from 85 Sangiovese and 15% Alicante and Cabernet Sauvignon. Traditional Scansanese vinification with long maceration for 21 days. The wine is aged for 18 months in barriques and 8 months in bottle before release. The wine will age for at least 15 years. The wine has hints of toasted tobacco, licorice, vanilla, a touch of black pepper and a hint of roasted coffee. $28

“Live Tasting” with Romano Brands at Ribalta

I have attended a number of wine tasting webinars this past year or so and I understand that under the circumstances this was the only way it could be done.  But I still prefer “live events,” so I was very happy when Michael Romano and Lars Leicht of Romano Brands invited me to taste their wine at Ribalta Restaurant. I have know both Michael and Lars for a number of years and was looking forward to seeing them and tasting the wines.

The Wines

Baci al Sole Rosé Veneto IGT made from 40% Corvina, 40% Merlot and 20% Corvinone. After a gentle pressing, there is brief skin contact with the juice followed by temperature controlled fermentation, then by a brief passage in stainless steel. The wine has hints of honeydew melon, red berries and cherries. It is very light pink in color and it is one of the best Rosé wines I have tasted in a long time. It reminds me of some of the rosé wines I had when I was in Provence.

Vermentino di Sardegna DOC 2019 “Tuvaoes” Cherchi made from 100% Vermentino di Sardegna from 117 hectares of vineyards planted with the Vermentino grapes at 200 meters. The grapes for this wine are a selection from the vineyards of Usini. The winery is in the northwest corner of Sardegna. The soil is limestone-clay. Pruning system is guyot.  Harvest takes place the second week of September. There is a careful selection of grapes in the vineyard. The grapes are destemmed and crushed followed by a soft pressing. The must ferments in steel tanks at a controlled temperature. The wine has hints of citrus, white fruit, grass, and tomato leaf with floral and mineral  notes.

Michael Romano with a glass of Baci di Sole and the pala Pizza Margherita 

Vino Bianco “Acini Perduti” Az. Agricola Tappero Merlo made from 70 % Malvasia Moscata and 30% Erbaluce. The soil is strongly acidic of morenic origin and composed of 80% sand, 15% silt and 5% clay.  The cultivation practices are organic and natural. There are 4,500 plants per hectare and the training system in guyot. The vineyards are at 970 ft.  Manual harvest takes place at the end of September. Fermentation takes place with indigenous yeast in a 500 liter tonneau. The aging is on the lees always in tonneau for about 12 months with weekly battonage. At the end of maturation, it passes to a non invasive clarification and filtration with the utmost respect for the integrity of the wine. The wine remains in the bottle 4/6 months before release. The wine is delicately aromatic with hints of citrus fruit, pears and apples and notes of sage, lemon grass, slightly spiced with good minerality. A very interesting and impressive wine.

They also make 100% Erbaluce which was how I first discovered this producer.

Note: Domenico Tappero, a student of history and terroir, read 17th century accounts of grapes that disappeared from his native Canavese in Piedmont. One of these “lost” grapes was the Malvasia Moscata. It is mentioned in a 1660 essay, “The Excellence and Diversity” of the wines that are made in the Mountains of Turin by G. B. Croce. The Malvasia Moscata grape in the past was blended with Erbaluce to make a popular blend. While Erbaluce remained popular Malvasia Moscata was forgotten over the years until once again blended with Erbaluce by Tappero Merlo.  “Acini Perduti” means Lost Berries

Erbaluce di Caluso DOCG “Cuvée Des Paladins” Brut Sparkling 2013. This sparkling wine is made from 100% Erbaluce with refermentation in the bottle (Classic Method). The wine is aged for 60 months on the lees. Soil is strongly acidic of morainic origin composed of 80% sand, 15% silt and 5% clay. The vineyards are at 970/100ft. Harvest is in early September. Fermentation of the must is partly In steel and partly in very old barrels. The base wine is ready to become a sparkling wine in the spring following the harvest. The pied-de cuve (process using wild yeast from the vineyard to ferment the wines) is prepared which starts the second fermentation in the bottle in a temperature controlled environment. After a slow passage over the pupitres (wooden frames for traditional riddling), the sparkling wine is ready for disgorgment which usually takes place in the spring. The wine rests for a few months and then is ready for release. The wine has hints of brioche, dried fruit, honey, and hazelnuts with citrus notes and complex minerality. This is the first time I tasted a sparkling wine made from Erbaluce di Caluso and I really liked it.

Note:The name of the  wines comes from the 12 loyal knights of Charles the Great, who on Christmas Day in the year 800 was crowned by Pope Leo III “Emperor of the Romans” and the Holy Roman Empire was established. There is a legend that during this time Erbaluce might have come from the Rhone Valley into Canavese or vice versa thanks to the agrarian reforms of Charles the Great.

Chianti Colli Senesi 2017 “San Nicola”  Az Agricola Campochiarenti, San Gimignano, Tuscany, made from 85 % Savgiovese and 15% Canaiolo, Colorino, Foglia Tonda and Mammolo. The exposure is south, south west along a hill at 180/230 meters. The soil is composed of silt and sand with a little clay. Harvest is by hand. Fermentation is in glazed cement basins of 90hl at a controlled temperature with pumping over and delestage. Maceration lasts for 12/15 days in order to obtain the highest extraction of color from the skins. The wine is naturally clarified , without adding any chemical products. Aging is in 20hl oak barrels for at least 9 months. The wine is bottled and stored in the cellar until release. The wine has hints of red berries, spice, tobacco and a touch of jam with a long finish and a very pleasing aftertaste. This wine will age.

This wine reminds me of the old style Chianti, with all the local grapes and traditional fermentation and aging which I loved, but few producers make any more.

 

Pala Pizza Margherita with mozzarella, basil and whole tomatoes.

One of Ribalta’s specialties is the Pizza a Pala, pizza on a paddle, baked in an electric oven, which has aA light and extra crispy crust.  It’s large enough for a family to share.  My favorite at Ribalta is the Margherita, but there are several other varieties as well. 

Wines from the Campo Alle Comete–Field of Dreams

It is always a pleasure to go to Il Gattopardo Restaurant.  Recently, I was invited there for lunch for a winery in Bolgheri in Tuscany, I  was happy to accept.

The Winery is the Campo Alle Comete- -Field of Dreams.  The speaker was Jeanette Servidio, Director and General Manager of the winery.

Jeanette Servidio

Feudi di San Gregorio, a Campagnia winery, acquired Tenuta Campo Alle Comete in February 2016.  The property consists of about 17 hectares and is located at the foot of the commune of Castagneto Carducci in the province of Livorno. There are 14.5 hectares of vineyards.

Jeanette described the soil as mostly loose sand with some clay and limestone. The land is level just a few meters above sea level. The oldest vineyard was planted in 1993 and the newest in 2007. Vine density ranges from 6,500 to 7,000 vines per hectare.

She said the winery practices sustainable farming and in 2016 started the conversion of the vineyards to organic.

The new wine cellar with its circular shape is inspired by an Etruscan tomb. It is partly underground which makes it naturally cool. There are 20 stainless steel tanks of different sizes and about 50 barriques/tonneaux in the cellar.

Nicoletta Ceccoli, an illustrator from San Marino, has designed the logo and also the dreamlike picture exhibited at the winery, from which the fairy images on the labels have been taken.

I was very pleased with how well the wines complemented the food!

The wines

Vermentino IGT Toscana 2016 made from 100% Vermentino. Fermentation is in stainless steel vats at controlled temperature of 17 degrees C then a short time on the lees. The wine has citrus flavors and aromas with hits of herbs and good acidity.

Served with insalatina di farro perlato organico con verdurine grigliate. (Organic pearled farro with grilled vegetables)

Cabernet Sauvignon IGT Toscana 2015 made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Half of the wine is in stainless steel tanks to preserve the fruity notes; the rest matures for about 6 monts in new and used barriques and tonneaux of medium toasted French oak. The wine has aromas and flavors of red fruit with hits of black cherry and mint.

Pappardelle al sugo di lepre (Pappardelle with hare sauce)

Bolgheri Rosso DOC “Stupore” 2015 made from decreasing proportions of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Petit Verdot. Each grape variety is fermented separately, and the wine remains in contact with the skins for about three weeks. The wine is aged for about 10 months in new and used barriques and tonneaux of medium toast oak barrels. The wine has  fragrant red fruit with a touch of balsamic and eucalyptus. .

Tagliata di manzo con patate al forno (Sliced dry-aged rib eye with roasted potatoes)

Dessert – Spiced pumpkin cake

Wines of Sardinia from Vigna Surrau

I have visited the Island of Sardinia off the coast of Westen Italy a number of times. It is has a rugged interior, but a great coastline with beaches that attract many tourists. Though it is one of the regions of Italy, the inhabitants are proud of their Sardinian heritage and if someone is going to the mainland (Italy), they say they are going to the continent. The national dish is mutton. I always enjoy the wines of Sardinia made with such grapes as Vermentino, Cannonau, Carignano and Muristellu.

A few months ago I received samples of wines from Vigna Surrau, a winery in Sardinia. I just finished tasting them last week and here is my review.

The Surrau Vineyards extend to the eastern part of Gallura, in Sardinia. The Vigna Surrau winery overlooks a property of over 50 hectares of land covered by vegetation. It is not far from the famous “Costa Smeralda” (Emerald Coast), on the road from Azachena to Porto Cervo.

The Wines

Vermentino Di Gallura “Branu” 2015 DOCG made from 100% Vermentino. The training system is espalier (guyot) and the soil is granite, medium mixture, tending to be sandy. Crushing and destemming takes place in a cold environment. Alcoholic fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature. The wine is bottled young to preserve its minerality and fruity freshness.

Vermentino Di Gallura Superiore “Sciala” 2015 DOCG Made from 100% Vermentino from a selection of the best grapes in their vineyards in the valley of Surrau. Training system is guyot and the soil is granite, medium consistency, tending to sandy. After destemming and crushing the must is kept cold. After a brief contact of the skins with the must, alcoholic fermentation takes place at a controlled temperature and the wine remains on the fine lees for a few months with batonnage. The wine has aromas and flavors or citrus fruit with hints of tropical fruit and good acidity.

 Cannonau Di Sardegna 100% Cannonau.  2014 The soil was formed from granite of medium mix, clayey and sandy, which gives the wine good minerality. Vinification is in stainless steel tanks for 7 to 8 days at a controlled temperature, daily pumping over and punching down are carried out in order to allow for balanced extraction of polyphenolic substances. Malolalactic fermentation takes place right after alcoholic fermentation. The wine remains in concrete and steel tanks for a few months before it is bottled. The wine has an intense aroma of red fruit with hints of strawberries and raspberries.

Cannonau Di Sardegna “Sincaru” 2013 DOC 100% Cannonau The soil is derived from granite weathering, medium mix, tending to sandy. Vinification is in stainless steel tanks for 16 to 18 days at a controlled temperature. Daily pumping over and punching down are carried out. The wine is then aged in Slavonian oak barrels that have not been toasted for 12 months. It remains for a few days in cement tanks and very large barrels before release. This is a wine with intense red fruit aromas and flavors with hints of spice and a touch of leather.

Cannonau di Sardegna “Sincaru Riserva” 2011 DOC made from a long maceration of 100% Cannonau grapes. After a careful manual selection, the grapes are destemmed and crushed and ferment in medium sized Slavonian oak barrels. Alcoholic fermentation lasts about 15 days never exceeding 28C. Maceration is with a floating cap with frequent pumping over. There is prolonged post fermentation for another 15 to 20 days with a submerged cap. After racking, the wine is aged in Slavonian oak barrels of 30HL for a minimum of 18 months. The wine is in small cement tanks before it is bottled and will remain in bottle for 6 months before release. This is an intense wine with red fruit aromas and flavors and hints of cherry and spicy notes.

Isola Dei Nuraghu “Surrau” 2013 IGT Made from Cannonau, Carignano and Muristellu grapes. Skin contact takes place in stainless steel tanks for about a week at controlled temperature. Daily pumping over and pumping down take place. Aging is for a few months in steel tanks and then in bottle. The wine has nice red fruit aromas and flavors with hints of raspberries and strawberries and a touch of violets.

Isola Dei Nuraghi “Barriu” 2013 IGT made from Cannonau, Carignano, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah grapes. Maceration on the skin is continuous for about 3 weeks with daily pumping over and punching down. Malolactic fermentation takes place in cement tanks and then is aged for 18 months in barrel. The wine has ripe red fruit aromas and flavors with hints of red jam and spicy notes.

 

 

 

 

 

Castello di Meleto: The Wines of Tuscany

A few months ago I was contacted by wellcomonline.com, a PR agency based in Alba, Italy. They wanted to know if I wanted to taste wine samples from Castello di Meleto, a winery in Tuscany. Wellcom handles some of Italy’s top wine clients, so I told them I would except the samples and was very pleased that I did.

The Castello di Meleto estate consists of 2,470 acres of which 300 acres are planted with vines. It is located just over a half mile from the town of Gaiole in Chianti. The castle, the heart of the estate, once belonged to the monks of the Coltibuono Abbey. The name Meleto can be traced back to 1256. Today the vineyards are spread in five different plots that surround the castle, leaving the winery in an ideal central location.

The Wines 

Vermentino 2015 IGT Toscana Bianco made from 100% Vermentino. The vineyard was planted in 2010 and is at 360 to 420 meters. There are 5,000 plants per hectare and the training system is guyot. The grapes are handpicked in small containers in order to reduce skin breakage. After being gently destemmed and soft pressed the free run juice is chilled and left on the skins for a few hours. Fermentation is in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature. During fermentation, a small portion of the wine undergoes a brief aging in second or third passage barriques. The wine in aged in stainless steel for 4 months before release. This is a fresh slightly tangy wine with hints of citrus and nice minerality. $12 

Chianti Classico DOCG 2013 made from 100% Sangiovese. The vineyard is at 360 to 450 meters with a south, southeast and south-west exposure and the soil is gravelly, rich in galestro and alberese. There are 3,500/ 5,000 vines per hectare and the vines were planted in 1970-2000. The training system is spurred cordon, guyot and alberello (bush). The grapes are harvested by hand and by machine and then destemmed and lightly pressed. Maceration is on the skins for 15 to 20 days. Spontaneous alcoholic fermentation is in stainless steel tanks, without adding exogenous yeast, for 7-10 days. Malolactic fermentation takes place in cement vat. The wine is aged in 54HL Slavonian oak barrels (botti) for 12 months. The wine is aged in the bottle for 6 months before release. The wine has hints of cherry, blueberry and a hint of pine. It is a very pleasant wine that is very food friendly. $18

Chianti Classico Riserva “Vigna Casi” DOCG 2012 made from 100% Sangiovese. The vineyard is located in Gaiole in Chianti. The exposure is west, south and southwest at 400 meters. There are 5,000 plants per hectare and the training system is spurred cordon and alberello. The vines were planted in 1990-1995. Harvest and selection is by hand. Maceration and spontaneous fermentation is at a minimum temperature of 78-82F in wooden vats with delestage and pump-over. The wine is kept in contact with the skins for 20 to 25 days before it goes into cement vats for malolactic fermentation. One half of the wine is aged in 52 Slavonian oak barrels, the rest in second or third passage 225-liter barriques for 18 months depending on the vintage. The wine remains in the bottle for 6 months before release. This is an elegant wine with hints of cherries, violets and spice and a long and intense finish. $30

 Chianti Classico “Gran Selezione” DOCG 2011 made from 85 % Sangiovese and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. The vineyard is south facing and is at 400 meters and were planted in 2000 and 2003. There are 5,000 vines per hectare; the training system is spurred cordon and the soil is gravelly, rich in galestro and alberese. Great care is taken in thinning shoots, foliage canopy management, and pruning. Harvest is by hand with 10-kilogram bins. In the cellar the grapes are refrigerated to a temperature of 8/10C for at least 24 hours. After the fermentation, which is in oak barrels, there is a long maceration. The Cabernet Sauvignon is aged in second passage French barriques, while the Sangiovese is aged in second and third passage barriques. The wine is aged between 14 to 18 months depending on the vintage. The wine remains in bottle for one year before release. This is an intense complex wine with hints of spice and berries. It will need a few more years to bring out all of its aromas and flavors.  $50

Gran Selezione is a new classification at the top of the Chianti Classico pyramid. The grapes for these wines must be estate grown and come from a single vineyard, or selected from the estates best-suited vineyards. Gran Selezione wines can be released on the market 30 months from the grape harvest, including at least 3 months of bottle age. The alcohol must be at least 13%

Vin Santo del Chianti Classico DOC 2008 90% Trebbiano, 5% Sangiovese and 5% Malvasia. The vineyard has western exposure and is at 400 meters. The soil is limestone mixed with sandstone. Training system is guyot, there are 3,000 vines per hectare. The vines were planted in 1972 -1974. Manual harvest and the grapes are naturally dried in well-ventilated rooms followed by fermentation and aging is barrels of different woods and sizes, which are sealed and kept in rooms with shifting temperatures. Aging is for 4 to 5 years in mixed wooden casks called caratelli of 60, 100 and 120 liters. The caratelli are filled up to 70%. This is a full dessert wine has hints of dried fruit, honey and apricot with a touch of vanilla. $45 – 375 bottle

ITALIAN SUMMER WHITE WINES FOR UNDER $ 20

My motto has always been that you don’t have to spend a lot of money on wine to drink well. Over the last year I have tasted  many excellant Italian white wines that are under $20.  Here is a list of some of my favorites.

Frascati Superiore Secco 2009 DOC Lazio Fontana Candida Made from 60% Malvasia Bianca di Candia, 30% Trebbiano and 10% Malvasia del Lazio. The grapes come from hillside vineyards in the DOC zone located in the province of Lazio, in the communes of Frascati, Monteporzio Cantone, Grottaferrata, Montecompatri and Rome. The grapes are harvested between September and October and immediately transported to the cellar where they are gently pressed. Vinification takes place in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. The wine is fermented and aged in stainless steel and then bottled under nitrogen to protect its freshness and fruit. The wine has aromas and flavors of white peaches and apples. It has good acidity and minerality with a long finish and a nice aftertaste. $10.

Bianco Veronese “Ferdi” 2009 IGT Sartori di Verona (Veneto) made from 100% Gaganega.  There is a careful selection of handpicked grapes from different vineyards that are partially dried in small boxes for 30- 40 days (appassimento) in order to reduce water and concentrate sugar content and color.  3 grams of sugar per liter in the wine is balanced by the acidity. There is a light cold soaking. The pressing of the grapes is followed by short skin maceration at a low temperature.
Part of the must is fermented in 500-liter oak tonneaux but the oak is not new. The remainder is aged in stainless steel. The wine is then left to mature on its lees for 6/7 months. This adds mouth feel and intensity. The wine is aged in bottle for at least 3 months before release. The wine has subtle floral notes with hints of pears and apricots and good acidity.  $14

Gavi del Comune di Gavi DOCG 2010 Beni di Batasiolo 100% Cortese (Piedmont) the vineyards are at 100/200 meters and there are 3,500 vines per hectare. They use the Guyot system modified into small arches. There is soft pressing with static decanting, and the alcoholic fermentation is under strict temperature control. The wine is bottled after malolactic fermentation. The wine has aromas of white flowers with hints of white peaches, citrus and good acidity. $18.99

Cuppa Ramato 2009Venezia Giulia Pinot Grigio IGT 2009 Attems.
The harvest took place near the end of September and the grapes were harvested by hand. Vinification takes place in stainless steel vats at a controlled temperature. Fermentation lasted for seven days. For this wine the skins remained in contact with the juice for 12 hours and the wine did not undergo malolactic fermentation. The wine is aged for four months in barriques and two months in stainless steel and one month in bottle before release. It has the color of a blush wine. The aroma is very aromatic with hints of strawberry and cherry. It is quite firm on the pallet with a nice fruit in the finish and aftertaste. It is a most interesting wine! $19

 The history of the Orange Wine
This wine goes back to the way Pinot Grigio was made during the time of the Republic of Venice. Ramato, meaning copper, was the term used to describe the color of the wine. Some clones of Pinot Grigio can also be copper in color. The traditional vinification process led to the use of this name. The must remains in contact with the skins for 36 hours and this gives the wine a very distinctive coppery hue. The term “orange wine” is used to describe white wine where the juice has had skin contact.

Grechetto Dell’Umbria IGT 2010, made from 100% Grechetto. Scacciadiavoli The harvest takes place the first ten days of September. Vinification takes place in steel tanks on the lees and malolactic fermentation does not take place. The wine is aged in bottle for 3 months before release. Grechetto is a native Umbrian varietal and this a wine to be enjoyed when it is young. It is fresh and fruity with floral hints and good acidity. $18
Vermentino Maremma Toscana IGT 2011 Cecchi 85% Vermentino and 15% other approved grapes. The vines are at 150 meters and the training system is guyot. There are 5,500 grapes per hectare. Harvesting takes place the beginning of September. After the grapes are picked they are left for 12 hours at a temperature of 8°C in contact with the skins in order to keep the primary aromas.
Fermentation takes place in small stainless steel tanks for 18 days and the wine remains in bottle for two months before release. $16
Pecorino 2009 Offida DOC 100% Pecorino Saladini Pilastri.  The vineyard is 4 hectares at 150 meters with gravelly soil and east/northeast exposure. Training system is vertical shoot-positioned trellis, and there are 4,200 plants/ha. The harvest takes place in the middle of September and the grapes are organically farmed. Temperature controlled fermentation for 20 days. This is a wine with floral and herbal undertones and nice citrus aromas and flavors.  $14.99

Scavigna Bianco DOC 2010 Azienda Agricola Odoardi (Calabria) made from Greco Bianco, Chardonnay, Malvasia, Trebbiano, Pinot Bianco and Riesling. The winery is at 600 meters. The soil is calcareous clay and the training system is Guyot. The harvest takes place in late August and fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks. The wine has flavors and aromas of white peach and herbs. They are one of the few producers that make this wine.  Owners are Giorgio and Giovanbattista Odoardi. $17

Falanghina Beneventana IGT 100% Falanghina  Donna Chiara.(Campania)  The soil is chalky clay, there are 2,500 vines per hectare, the training system is Guyot and the harvest takes place the first week of October. Fermentation in stainless steel at controlled temperature for 40 days. The wine does not undergo malolactic fermentation and does not see any wood.
The wine was fresh with hints of citrus and floral aromas and flavors, good acidity and is a very pleasant wine to drink. $18

The Wines of Davide Sada and Dinner by a Tuscan Chef

Davide Sada is a wine lover and always dreamed of owning his own winery.

Davide however was involved in the family business; his great-great grandfather had patented the technique of vacuum-canning foods and was the creator of what was to become Simmenthal, Italy’s best-known brand of tinned beef.

 Sig. Sada at first wanted to start a winery in Friuli, but he changed his mind and his career when he met the well known Italian enologist, Maurizio Castelli, who convinced him to look in the northern part of the Maremma.  After a detailed analysis of the land lying between Casale Marittimo, Bibbona and Bolgheri by a geologist friend of Castelli, Davide purchased land that they felt was best suited for growing quality grapes.  The new winery was named Azienda Agricola Sada – Fattoria “Carpoli”. 

Chef Vallini and Davide Sada

 Recently, at the Hotel Michaelangelo in NYC Sig. Sada presented his wines at a very special dinner of simply prepared traditional Tuscan food.  The dinner was prepared by Emanuele Vallini, chef/owner of La Carabaccia in Bibbona, not far from the winery.  Sig. Sada is so proud of the food of this area that he flew Chef Vallini to the US to prepare the food for the dinner.

 Vermentino Toscana IGT 2010, 100% Vermentino. The production zone is the Casale Marittimo. The vineyards are at 350 meters. The training system is spurred cordon and the harvest takes place toward the end of September. Vinification is in stainless steel and the wine does not undergo malolatic fermentation. It is aged 5 to 6 months in steel and 2 to 3 months in bottle before release. The wine was fresh and fruity with flavors and aromas of green apple, grapefruit and a touch of honey. It was a perfect combination with the Coccoli della Carabaccia (fried bread dumplings, zucchini flowers vegetables and sage leaves that were passed around as finger food. It also went very well with the first course pappa al pomodoro (bread and ripe tomatoes porridge, flavored with garlic, onions, basil and drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil.) $26

 Integolo Toscana IGT 2009 Made from 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30-40% Montepulciano.  Sig Sada said that if the vintage is lacking and more color is needed in the wine, they will add a small percentage of Alicante, so grape percentages may vary according to the harvest. The production area is Bibbona. The vineyards are at 120 meters, the training system is guyot and the harvest is toward the middle of September. The wine is vinified in stainless steel, aged in steel for 3 months and aged 3 more months in bottle before release. Sig. Sada said that he was trying to make a wine characteristic of the area that was low in price and low in alcohol,  what he called “a wine for every day drinking”.  It is only 12.5 degrees of alcohol because the leaves of the plants are shaded from the sun. The wine had flavors and aromas of fresh red fruit, with hints of blueberry and good acidity. I think he has succeded.  It is an easy drinking wine and went very well with the farro della Garfagnana con pancetta e porro su crema di pepperoni (a timbale of spelt from Garfagnana with bacon and leeks, over a bell pepper cream) $19

 Baldoro Toscana IGT 2008 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Montepulciano and 5% Alicante. Vine training, altitude, harvest and vinification as above. The wine is aged is stainless steel for one year and in bottle for 6 months before release. This wine had fruity red berry flavors and aromas with hints of blackberries and blueberries. This wine had more body than the Integolo and had a longer finish and more lasting aftertaste.

Sig. said that the Baldoro started out as being his “every day” wine but it soon developed into a complex wine with more body and fuller aromas and flavors than the Integolo.  He felt that Baldoro would be an excellent wine with steak. We had it with La Carabaccia di Caterina de’Medici (onion soup with fresh egg soup) $26

Carpoli Toscana IGT 2006 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot.  Sig. Sada said that these were the classic grapes of Bolgheri in the Maremma. The altitude, training system, harvest, and vinification are the same as above. The wine is aged in French oak barriques. Less than 1/3 are new and the rest in second and third passage barriques. It spends 8 to 10 months in bottle before release. Sig. Sada said that this was his “Super Tuscan” and a wine to age. It was a little too modern for me but not over the top and was better with the filetto di maiale in crosta di erbette e noci (polk filet in a crust of herbs and walnuts.) $44

 Vermentino Toscana IGT 2008 100% Vermentino- Vendemmia Tardiva (late harvest)

This wine is not for sale at this time and is only made for family and friends. It was dark brown in color, very dense, thick and sweet. However with the dessert crema di mascarpone con sbrisolona di cantucci (cream of mascarpone with crumbles of cantucci) it was a perfect combination.

 At dinner I was sitting next to Sig. Sada and he said that the winery was organic but he does not put it on the label.