The Wine Media Guild of NYC held its last tasting and lunch of the year at Il Gattopardo restaurant featuring the wines of Italy’s Umbria Region.
It was a tasting of the wines from four different consortiums: Sagrantino, Torgiano, Orvieto and Trasimeno.
Umbria is the only region in Italy that does not border on another country or the sea. It borders on the regions of Tuscany, Lazio and Le Marche. It is often called the Green Heart of Italy and is known for its rolling hills, dense forests and medieval hill towns. It has a rich culinary tradition and is noted for black truffles, roasted meats and of course for its wines.
THE WINES
Montefalco Rosso DOC 2020 Bocale made from 70% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot, 5% Colorino and 15% of other indigenous grapes. The grapes are hand harvested the last ten days in September into early October. Vinification is exclusively with natural enzymes. Stabilization and filtration does not take place and the presence of sediments should be considered a guarantee of authenticity. Aging in barrels and barriques for about 12 months and in bottle for at least 6 months before release. The wine can age for at least 7 to 10 years. It has hints of ripe cherry and violets with a touch of prune and a note of spice.
Montefalco Rosso Riserva 2018 DOC Perticaia made from 70% Sangiovese, !5% Sagrantino and 15% Colorino. The grapes are hanrd picked in mid September for Sangiovese and Colorino and the beginning of October for Sagrantino. There is a cold maceration of the grapes for 48 hours and fermentation takes place with naturally present yeasts. The blended wines are aged in large French oak barrels for at least 24 months, then in steel for 6 months and finally in bottle for 6 months before release. The wine has hints of ripe red fruit, strawberry and blueberry with a touch of vanilla and a hint of spice. It will age for 5 to 10 years.
Antonelli Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG 2018 Antonelli San Marco. Made from 100% Sagrantino. Sagrantino is the traditional wine of Montefalco, made from Sagrantino grapes from vines grown for centuries on the slopes of the Umbrian hills characterized by great structure and longevity. Vineyards are located on hills between 300 and 400 meters. The exposure is southern and southwesterly and the training system is spurred cordon and guyot. The wines are about 15 years old. The grapes are hand picked the second week of October and there is a final selection in the cellar. Vinification involves using the force of gravity because there are two levels in the cellar. During fermentation the skin is in contact with the juice for 25/40 days and then malolactic fermentation takes place. The wine clarifies spontaneously and there is no need for filtration. The wine is aged in large oak barrels for 18 months. The wine remains in glass lined cement tanks for a number of months before it is bottled.
This is a wine that can age. I visited the winery a number years ago and tasted a number of older vintages. It is my favorite. I am always impressed by the wines. Sagrantino is a grape that should be better known I believe it is right up there with Aglianco, Nebbiolo and Sangiovese.
Bianco di Torgiano DOC 2022 “Torre di Giano” Lungarotti made from Vermentino, Trebbiano and Grechetto. Harvest is in early September. The training system is double Guyot pruning and there are 4000 vines/hectare. The wine is produced exclusively with free-run juice. After a brief cryomaceration it is vinified in stainless steel at a cold temperature. The wine is fruity a with long-lasting, intense bouquet that recalls citrus fruit, white blossoms and fresh fruit salad; dry and with good structure, it has a fragrant evolution with delicate acidity and a long finish.
Rosso Di Torgiano DOC 2020 “Rubesco” Lungarotti 70% Sangiovese and 30% Canaiolo. The soil is clay and sand of medium depth with limestone subsoil. There are 4,000 vines per hectare and the harvest takes place in September/October. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks with 15 days maceration on the skins. It is aged for 12 months in oak casks and lightly filtered before bottling. This is a wine with red fruit aromas and flavors, hints of black cherry, violets, a touch of leather and spice with a very pleasant finish and aftertaste.Colli Del Trasimeno “Òscano” 2022 PGI Carini made from Gamay and Sangiovese from a 2 hectare vineyard. Various types of soils with a large percentage of the marly-arenaceous type. Northeast exposure at 360 meters. The training system is mainly runner and the average age of the vines is 6/8 years. Harvest is by hand the end of September and the beginning of October with a meticulous sorting of the gapes. The skins are in contact with the juice for 15 to 18 days. There are many pumping overs and a 20% extraction in the initial stage. Fermentation is in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks with selected yeasts. Malolactic fermentation is carried out in casks. Aging is in barriques for 3 months (French sessile oak casks). The wine is bottled in March/April following the harvest and remains in the bottle for 3 months before release. The wine has hints of red fruit, sweet spices, with a touch of violets.
Trasimeno Grechetto DOC 2022 Montemelino (organic) made from100% Grechetto. The vineyard is at 250 meters with a southwest exposure. Training system is spurred cordon and the soil is clay. Manual harvest takes place in September. There is a direct pressing of the grapes followed by fermentation at a controlled temperature in steel tanks. Th wine has hints of citrus fruit, pear and a note of white flowers with an almond finish and aftertaste.
Umbria Orvieto DOC Superior 2021 Argillae made from 100% Grechetto. The training system is guyot, there are 4,000 vines per hectare and the harvest takes place in September. After a careful selection in the vineyards, cold maceration takes place. There is a brief pressing and the juice is racked and fermented in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature. The wine remains on the lees in stainless steel tanks before it is bottled in February/March. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, a touch of jasmine, good acidity and a typical almond finish.
Castello Della Sala Orvieto Classico Superiore 2022 “San Giovanni” Antinori made from Grechetto, Procanico, Pinot Bianco and Viognier. The vineyards are between 220 and 470 meters. Soil is mainly clay, calcareous, rich in fossil shells. The vineyards are well exposed to the sunshine. It ages in steel tanks and rests on the lees for a long time. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, tropical fruit, white flower blossoms with a touch of peach and a note of apricots. This is not your typical Orvieto Classico
Vin Santo Colli del Trasimeno DOC Pucciarella made from Trebbiano, Malvasia and Grechetto. Vineyard is at 300 meters and there are 3,300 plants per hectare. Soil is rich in turbidite, marine sediments such as sand and loam.The manual harvest takes place in the middle of September. The grapes are dried for over 3 months. Yeast strains from previous fermentations are used-sort of a “Madre.” The wine has hints of jam, honey, figs, quince and almonds. It is sweet but balanced thanks to very good acidity.