Eight Wines to Enjoy from 2023

Looking back on 2023, I have written about many wines and here are eight more, five from Italy and three from California, that I think you might want to know about.

Umbria IGT Bianco Grechetto 2021  Argillae made from 100% Grechetto. The training system is guyot, there are 4,000 vines per hectare and the harvest takes place in September. After a careful selection in the vineyards, cold maceration takes place. There is a brief pressing and the juice is racked and fermented in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature. The wine remains on the lees in stainless steel tanks before it is bottled in February/March. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, a touch of jasmine, good acidity and a typical almond finish. $18

I have visited the winery a few times as it is just outside Orvieto which is a short train ride from Rome.

Giulia di Cosimo, manager/owner of the winery at a Wine Media Guild tasting

This wine was tasted at an event sponsored by the region of Umbria for the NY Wine Media Guild in NYC at Il Gattopardo Restaurant.

Nero D’Avola “Irmána” Sicilia DOC 2022 Corvo made from 100% organic Nero d’Avila from western and southern Sicily from vineyards over 200 meters. Soil is a mixed composition of limestone/siliceous and the training system is espalier with medium to high density of vines per hectare. Harvest is in the last two weeks in September. Traditional fermentation with balanced maceration on the skins followed by careful malolactic fermentation. The wine then remains in steel for two months. After the wine is bottled it spends one month in the cellars before release. This aromatic wine has hints of cherry, raspberry, licorice  a touch of strawberry and a hint of red currents. $NA

Nero D’Avola “10” Sicilia DOC  2020  Baglio Bonsignori made from 100% Nero d’Avola. The winery is located in the Giddio district of the countryside of Naro in the province of Agrigento in Sicily. There are 13 hectares of vineyards which are located at an altitude of between 300 and 400 meters above sea level and 18 kilometers from the sea.  The soil is calcareous/clay. The winery is biodynamic. The wine has hints of red fruit, cherry, plum, spice and a touch of tobacco.  $NA

My grandfather Angelo Scicolone was born in Naro in 1868.  I visited there once many years ago way before this winery was established.

Chianti Classico DOCG 2019  Querciabella made of mostly Sangiovese from top sites in three of Chianti’s best sub-zones: Greve, Radda, and Gaiole. In Greve, the Sangiovese enjoys a natural south-orientation. The soils, typically composed of sandstone rocks and sands obtained from the flaking of galestro, are richer in clay at lower altitudes (350-400 meters) and progressively become looser and more draining as they reach close to 550 meters. Similar characteristics can be found in Radda (450 meters), but the higher presence of galestro slate results in wines of persistent tannins and darker fruit profiles. At 500 meters, the soils in Gaiole are rich in calcium carbonate and deliver a riper expression of the Sangiovese fruit and a marked acidity thanks to the presence of limestone rocks, also known as Albarese. Grapes are carefully selected in the vineyards, and harvested by hand into 9kg crates. They are destemmed, never crushed, then conveyed into temperature-controlled stainless steel vats, where alcoholic fermentation and maceration take place. Maceration lasts about 12 days. After completing full malolactic fermentation, the wine is transferred  to extra fine grained oak barriques (225L) and tonneaux (500L) of which 10% are new. The wine is regularly racked and tasted during the entire 12-month maturation period. At the end of the élevage, the best lots are selected through extensive tasting and assembled to create the final blend. After bottling, the wine rests for at least three months before release. The winery is 100% Biodynamic and organic Vegan. No animal products or byproducts are used in the production of this wine, making it suitable for vegans and vegetarians. There is no use of chemicals, fertilizers or pesticides, creating a welcoming environment for the existence of beneficial insects and birds that assist the natural viticultural practices. Querciabella has been a top producer for many years. $34

Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG 2020 Antonelli San Marco. Made from 100% Sagrantino. Sagrantino is the traditional wine of Montefalco, made from Sagrantino grapes from vines grown for centuries on the slopes of the Umbrian hills characterized by great structure and longevity. Vineyards are located on hills between 300 and 400 meters.The exposure is southern and southwesterly and the training system is spurred cordon and guyot. The wines are about 15 years old. The grapes are hand picked the second week of October and there is a final selection in the cellar. Vinification involves using the force of gravity because there are two levels in the cellar. During fermentation the skin is in contact with the juice for 25/40 days and then malolactic fermentation takes place. The wine clarifies spontaneously and there is no need for filtration. The wine is aged in large oak barrels for 18 months. The wine remains in glass lined cement tanks for a number of months before it is bottled.

This is a very complex wine with hints of red and black fruit, wild berries, cherry, a touch of citrus and a note of mint. $45. The winery is certified organic.

I visited the winery a number of years ago and was very impressed with the wines. I was able to taste wines that were 10 years to 15. More recently I was able to taste the wines again in Filippo Antonelli’s home in Rome. I am always impressed by his wines.  I tasted this wine at an event sponsored by the region of Umbria for the NY Wine Media Guild in NYC at Il Gattopardo.

California Wine

Chardonnay 2019 Ettore Biraghi made from 100% pure Chardonnay organic grapes from 100% estate grown grapes in the Sanel Valley Vineyards/Hopland, in the southernmost town in Mendocino County in California. The soil is mostly gravel and loamy and the elevation is 500 to 600 feet.  Age of vine plots from 8 to 22 years. Harvest is by hand and there is traditional white wine fermentation in stainless steel tanks. The wine has hints of tropical fruit, banana, melon and a touch of caramel $28

Chardonnay  2021 Langetwins made from 100% Chardonnay from the Clarksburg Merrill Vineyard (81.09 acres) Certified Lodi Rules for Sustainable Wine growing. Soil is silty and mucky clay loam with derivation mixed rock and decomposed plants. Training system is trellising with T-Trellis with 16” foliage crossarm. Harvest is from August 21 to September 1. Aging in neutral oak for 16 months. Residual sugar 1.5 g/l. The wine has hints of brioche, honeyed melon and tropical pineapple. $25

Lodi Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 Langetwins made from 100% Cabernet from the Thirty Eight Vineyard, Jahant AVA(48.52 acres. Soil is thick surface loam with derivation granite rock. The training system is Trellising-California Sprawl. Harvest was September 12. The wine is aged in French oak for 19 months and was bottled on April 20, 2023. The wine has hints of plum, star anise and mission figs. $38

HAPPY HOLIDAYS

Summer Best of $20 and Under

 

 

No need to spend more than $20 a bottle for good wines like these. Here are the bottles I will be drinking all summer long.

Beneventano Falanghina IGT 2018 DonnaChiara made from 100% Falanghina The vineyard is the Torre Cuso, the best location for Falanghina. The soil is volcanic, chalky clay, the vines are 16 years old, the training system is guyot and there are 2,500 vines per hectare. The grapes are not destemmed or crushed before pressing. Cold fermentation is in stainless steel and there is extended maceration. This is a crisp white wine with citrus fruit aromas and flavors, nice acidity and good minerality. This is one of my favorite white wines and I always have a bottle or two on hand. $16.

Fiano di Avelllino 2017 Sarno 1860 made from 100% Fiano di Avellino. The vineyard is 8 hectares, the exposure is southeast and the training system is guyot. There are 5,500 plants per hectare and the harvest takes place the first two weeks in October by hand. Vinification is in steel at a controlled temperature with indigenous yeasts. The wine is aged for 8 months on the fine lees and four months in bottle before release. This is a wine with hints of citrus fruit, grapefruit, peach and toasted hazelnuts. They only produce Fiano di Avellino. $18

Fiano di Avellino “Radici 2017 ”  DOCG Mastroberardino made from 100% Fiano di Avellino from the 25 acre Santo del Sole vineyard at 1,815 feet with southwest exposure. The soil is sandy-loam. There are 1,600 vines per acre and the training system is guyot. The vineyard was planted in 2001. Harvest takes place the second half of October. Classic white wine vinification in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. The wine remains in the bottle for 3 to 4 months before release. The wine has hints of pear, citrus fruit, a hint of pineapple and a touch of almonds. $18

Greco di Tufo 2017 DOCG Petilia made from 100% Greco. The vineyard is at 600 meters and the exposure is south/east. The soil is clay, volcanic, rich in minerals with a sulfurous sub soil. There are 4,000 vines per hectare and the training system is espalier with guyot pruning. The grapes are hand picked the second week of October. There is a soft pressing of the whole grapes and fermentation takes place in stainless steel vats at a controlled temperature. The wine remains in the bottle for 3 to 4 months before release. This is a well-structured and complex wine with hints of citrus fruit, lemon/lime, acacia and quince, a touch of minerality, good acidity and a very pleasing finish and long aftertaste. Greco di Tufo is a wine the can last for 20 years or more. Two weeks ago I had the 2009 and it was wonderful. $19

KATÁ IGP Catalanesca Del Mount Somma 100% Catalanesca. Cantine Olivella The grapes are carefully selected and hand harvested in the first half of October.  Fermentation and maturation is with natural yeast and takes place in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. The refining process “sur lie” (lees contact starts in stainless steel and ends in the bottle after a three month period. The wine has very nice citrus aromas and flavors, with hints of apricot, cantaloupe and acidity. There is a mineral aspect to the wine, which may come from the volcanic soil. $18

Catalanesca 2018 IGP Tenuta Augustea made from 100% Catalanesca from the Somma Vesuviana zone. The soil is well-structured deep limestone with medium fertile consistency. The exposure is south/east and the vineyards are at 400/500 meters. The average age of the vines is 9/10 years and the training system is guyot. Harvest takes place in October. Fermentation is in steel tanks for 30 days at 18C. There is tartaric stabilization and filtration. This is an aromatic wine with hints of citrus fruit, apricot, a note of white flowers and good minerality.  $19

Pallagrello Bianco “Caiati” 2017 Michele Alois 100% Pallagrello Bianco from a 2.13-hectare vineyard at 280 meters, soil is volcanic with minerals. The training system is guyot, there are 4,800 plants per hectare and the harvest is in the middle of September. Fermentation takes place on the lees for 30 days. Malolactic fermentation is in stainless steel at a controlled temperature. The wine remains in the bottle for 4 months before release. The wine has hints of almonds, citrus fruit, melon and grapefruit with a long finish and pleasing aftertaste. $18

Umbria IGT Bianco Grechetto 2018  Argillae made from 100% Grechetto. The training system is guyot, there are 4,000 vines per hectare and the harvest takes place in September. After a careful selection in the vineyards, cold maceration takes place. There is a brief pressing and the juice is racked and fermented in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature. The wine remains on the lees in stainless steel tanks before it is bottled in February/March. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, a touch of jasmine, good acidity and a typical almond finish. I tasted this wine with a group of friends at the winery and they all really liked it. $18

La Lupinella Trebbiano Toscana IGT 2018 made from 100% Trebbiano. The vineyard is in Sant’Ansano (Vinci). The grapes are carefully selected by hand and a small part, about 2%, is picked from the bunches, set aside and later added during fermentation which takes place in terracotta jars, to intensify the aromatic character of the wine. The wine remains on the lees for a minimum of 6 months without undergoing malolactic fermentation and is aged at least 3 months in the bottle before release. This is a fresh fruity well-balanced wine with hints of peach, white flowers and a touch of almonds. $16

Soave Doc “Scaligeri” 2017 Sandro de Bruno made from 100% Garganega from small plots of land located on the slopes of Monte Calvarina. The vineyard is at 4,000 meters and the average age of the vineyards is 20 years. The training system is Pergoletta Veronese and the exposure is south. The soil is volcanic. There is manual harvesting using crates, grape sorting, de-stemming, grape selection, then a slow crushing of the grapes and pressing with nitrogen saturation. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel. This is a wine with hints of pear, figs, and almonds with good minerality. $17

Irpinia Rosato DOC 2018 “Vela Vento Vulcano” made from 100% Aglanico Tenuta Cavalier Pepe. The estate vineyards are in the hills of Luogosano and Sant’Angelo all’Esca at 350 meters. The soil is claylike and chalky. The grapes are hand picked, destemmed and undergo an initial cold maceration. After a few hours of skin contact, the grapes are pressed and the must ferments at a low temperature. The wine matures in bottle until release. This is an easy drinking fruity wine with hints of cherries, strawberries and a touch of raspberries. I visited the winery in February and was very impressed with all of the wines.$18

 

 

 

Italian Wines $20 and Less for Drinking Any Time

Here are 12 Italian wines I have tried lately priced under $20 that I have enjoyed and you might too.

 

Garganega- Soave DOC 2018 made from 100% Garganega. Sandro De Bruno The production zone is Soave, Roncà-Calvarina. The vineyard is 15 acres at 262 to 452 ft., the exposure is south and the soil is volcanic. There is a manual harvest in small crates during the 3^rd week of September. A manual selection takes place followed by a soft press in a nitrogen saturation with a low temperature of 10°C. Before the fermentation, the must is decanted getting rid of the first gross lees. Noble lees are preserved and worked with continuous batonnages for 3 months. Maturation is in stainless steel tanks. The wine has aromas and flavors of citrus fruit, with a hint of white flowers, nice minerality and a touch of peach $14

Gewürztraminer “Classic” Südtirol- Alto Adige DOC 2015 made from 100% Gewürztraminer, Tiefenbrunner. The vineyards are in Kurtatsch and Entiklar on south/southeast facing hills at 260 to 470 meters. The training system is pergola and guyot and there are 3,500 t0 7,000 vines per hectare. The vines are up to 35 years old. The soil is chalk moraine in the hills of Entiklar and alluvial in Kurtatsch. Fermented at a constant temperature at 20C in stainless steel tanks. Maturation is on the fine lees for 4 months in stainless steel tanks and concrete. The wine has hints of ripe grapes, candied fruits, a hint of honey and a touch of spice and sage. $18

Pallagrello Bianco “Caiati” 2015 Michele Alois 100% Pallagrello Bianco from a 2.13-hectare vineyard at 280 meters, soil is volcanic with minerals. The training system is guyot, there are 4,800 plants per hectare and the harvest is in the middle of September. Fermentation takes place on the lees for 30 days. Malolactic fermentation is in stainless steel at a controlled temperature. The wine remains in the bottle for 4 months before release. The wine has hints of almonds, citrus fruit, melon and grapefruit with a long finish and pleasing aftertaste. $18

Falanghina Beneventano 2018 DOC 100% Falanghina. Campania, Italy Donnachiara  The soil is volcanic, chalky clay, the vines are 16 years old, the training system is guyot and there are 2,500 vines per hectare. The grapes are not destemmed or crushed before pressing. Cold fermentation is in stainless steel and there is extended maceration. This is a crisp white wine with citrus fruit aromas and flavors, nice acidity and good minerality. This is one of my favorite white wines and I always have a bottle or two on hand.  I first had this wine at the winery. $17

KATÁ IGP Catalanesca Del Mount Somma 100% Catalanesca. Cantine Olivella The grapes are carefully selected and hand harvested in the first half of October.  Fermentation and maturation is with natural yeast and takes place in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. The refining process “sur lie” (lees contact starts in stainless steel and ends in the bottle after a three month period. The wine has very nice citrus aromas and flavors, with hints of apricot, cantaloupe and acidity. There is a mineral aspect to the wine, which may come from the volcanic soil. $18

Ippolito 1845, “Pecorello” Calabria Bianco IGT 2018 Ippolito made from 100% Pecorello Bianco.  Pecorello means little sheep. It is an ancient grape variety of Calabria and was almost extinct until Ippolito began producing it again. Manual harvest takes place in early September, then cold settling and fermentation in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature. The wine is aged in stainless steel tanks until the end of January. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, with notes of peach and pear and nice minerality $19

Umbria IGT Bianco Grechetto 2018  Argillae made from 100% Grechetto The training system is guyot, there are 4,000 vines per hectare and the harvest takes place in September. After a careful selection in the vineyards, cold maceration takes place. There is a brief pressing and the juice is racked and fermented in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature. The wine remains on the lees in stainless steel tanks before the wine is bottled in February/March. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, a touch of jasmine, good acidity and a typical almond finish. I tasted this wine with a group of friends at the winery and they all really liked it. $18

 

Irpinia Rosato DOC 2018 “Vela Vento Vulcano” made from 100% Aglanico Tenuta Cavalier Pepe. The estate vineyards are in the hills of Luogosano and Sant’Angelo all’Esca at 350 meters. The soil is claylike and chalky. The grapes are hand picked, destemmed and undergo an initial cold maceration. After a few hours of skin contact, the grapes are pressed and the must ferments at a low temperature. The wine matures in bottle until release. This is an easy drinking fruity wine with hints of cherries, strawberries and a touch of raspberries. I visited the winery in February and was very impressed with all of the wines.$18

Primitivo Salento “Mezzapezza” 2016 Trullo di Pezza made from 100% Primitivo from vines 20 to 30 years old at 5 meters. The soil is sandy clay, south exposure and the training system is Espalier. Harvest is manual. Fermentation is in temperature controlled stainless steel vats with maceration for 8 to 10 days. The wine is aged in stainless steel for 5 months and 1 month in bottle before release. This is a fresh intense fruity wine with hints of cherry, plum, and a touch of spice.$17

Montefalco Rosso 2016 Bocale made from 70% Sangiovese, 15% Sagrantino, 10% Merlot and 5% Colorino. Harvest takes place by hand from the last ten days of September to early October. Vinification is exclusively with natural enzymes. The wine does not undergo any kind of stabilization or filtration. The presence of sediment should be considered a guarantee of authenticity. The wine is aged in barrels and barriques for about 12 months and aged in bottle for at least 6 months before release. This is a balanced wine with hints of cherry, violets and floral scents and a touch of spice. $19

Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba DOCG “Garabei” 2017  Giovanni Abrigo made from 100% Dolcetto planted in 1968. The estate is situated on a hill in Diano d’Alba at a high altitude. They own 11 hectares of vineyards. The soil is sandy with a lot of gravel. The juice is fermented naturally on the skins for 8 days in stainless steel tanks. After racking the wine is aged for 12 months in stainless steel and spends 4 more months in bottle before release. The wines are not filtered or fined. Sustainable farming methods are used. The wine has hints of red fruit, cherries. $16

Irpinia Aglianico DOC 2015 Tenuta Del Mariggio made from 100% Aglianico from estate vineyards located in Montemiletto at 500 meters and in Taurasi at 300 meters. The vineyards were planted between 2003 and 2012. There are 4,000 plants per hectare and the training system is guyot. Harvest takes place at the end of October and the beginning of September. This is a wine with red and blackberry flavors and a hint of spice and should be drunk within the next 5 years.$16

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Visiting the Argillae Winery near Orvieto

When we are in Rome we often spend a day in Orvieto, a beautiful town in Umbria, just a short ride away by train.  This year we were traveling with a friend who had never been there and we decided to go, have lunch, and visit the Argillae winery.

I contacted Giulia di Cosimo, manager of the winery, who Michele and I met on a Hello Grappa press trip. Giulia’s mother is a member of the Bonollo family, which owns distilleries in different parts of Italy.

We had lunch at Osteria dell’Orso in Orvieto and Giulia met us after lunch and drove us to the winery.

Giulia

Giulia told us about the Argillae estate. Argillae was founded by Cavaliere del Lavoro Giuseppe Bonollo, Giulia’s grandfather, founder of Bonollo, Spa., the biggest Italian distillery.  She said the estate covers an area of about 220 hectares between the hills of Allerone and Ficulle, northwest of the town of Orvieto. The soil is mostly clay, limestone and rocks but what makes it unique she said is that the area was once covered with water and it contains a lot of fossils such as seashells from the Pilocene period. These fossils enrich the soil with mineral components which pass into the wine.

The terroir is mostly clay-calcareous and Giulia said this type of soil stays cooler than other soils and works well in hot regions like Umbria. The clayey part retains the water and this helps the grapes during the dry season, while the calcareous part drains well, avoiding diseases caused by stagnation and humidity. Argillae in Latin means clay.

They do everything they can to protect the environment; to her it is not a philosophy but a way of life.

The Wines

Orvieto Classico Superiore DOC “Panata”  2018 made from 50% Grechetto, 20% Procanico and 30% Chardonnay. There are 4,000 wines per hectare for the Grechetto and Procanico, and for the Chardonnay 3,333 vines per hectare and the training system is guyot. Harvest is by hand and takes place in September. The grape undergoes a brief cold maceration process to obtain the ideal extraction of the aromas and is then pressed very lightly. The musts ferment separately in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. A small portion of the Grechetto must is fermented and refined in oak barriques and everything is then blended together. The wine remains on the lees until it is bottled in March/April. This is a well-structured, elegant wine with hints of yellow flowers, grapefruit, nice minerality and good acidity.

Giulia said the wine is named for a medieval pitcher used for pouring wine and water traditionally characterized by a prominent beak and decorated with animal, floral or mythological motifs.

Bianco Umbria 2017 IGT “Primo d’Anfora” made from Grechetto di Orvietto Drupeggio (aka Canaiolo Bianco) and Malvasia (3% of the Malvasia is late harvest). The 3 varieties are in 3 separate amphora with skin contact.

After two weeks the wines go into stainless steel tanks where they are blended. Then the blended wine goes back into the amphora for another 8 months before it is bottled. Giulia said this is her project because she wanted to produce wine close to the way the ancient Etruscans did. This is a full-bodied wine with citrus aromas and flavors, nice minerality, good acidity, with a pleasing aftertaste and a long finish.

Umbria IGT Bianco Grechetto 2018 made from 100% Grechetto The training system is guyot, there are 4,000 vines per hectare and the harvest takes place in September. After a careful selection in the vineyards, cold maceration takes place. There is a brief pressing and the juice is racked and fermented in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature. The wine remains on the lees in stainless steel tanks before the wine is bottled in February/March. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, a touch of jasmine, good acidity and what Giulia referred to as the typical almond finish. This was the white wine that my two friends really enjoyed.

Orvieto Superiore DOC 2018 made from Grechetto, Procanico, Malvasia,Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. The training system is guyot. There are 4,000 vines per hectare for the Grechetto and Procanico and 3,333 for the others. Harvest takes place in September. Each variety is vinified separately. The grapes are delicately pressed and the resulting juice is racked and fermented in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature. The wine remains on the lees until it is bottled in February/March. Giulia said she wished to pay homage to the regional tradition of Umbria by creating a fresh dry white wine with intense aromas of flowers, citrus and tropical fruit. The wine has nice mineral notes, good acidity and a refreshing finish.

Umbria Rosso IGT “Sinuoso” 2017 means smooth or round. Made from 35% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Montepulicano. The soil is clay-calcareous and the training system is guyot. There are 3,333 plants per hectare and the harvest takes place in October. After destemming and crushing there are 15 days maceration with regular must pump-over on the skins. Both the alcoholic fermentation and the malolactic fermentation are in stainless steel. The wine is subsequently fined for several months and is periodically racked with the addition of oxygen. The wine remains in bottle for 3/4 months before release. This is a fruity red wine with hints of cherry, black currant and plum with a long finish.

Unbria Rosso IGT “Vasellarus 2017” made from 85% Montepulciano, and 15 Cabernet Sauvignon. The training method is guyot and there are 3,333 vines per hectare. Harvest is by hand in October. The grapes are crushed and destemmed and there is a 25/30-day maceration period with frequent pumpovers on the skins, accompanied by several rack and return procedures. Alcoholic fermentation is in steel tanks at a controlled temperature and malolactic fermentation takes place in barriques. The wine is aged in French barriques with racking on a regular basis, depending on the need. The wine remains in the bottle for another 8/12 months before release. The wine has hints of ripe red fruit, spice, black pepper and vanilla notes.

Giulia said the Vascellari were medieval pottery and ceramic producers in Orvieto. The pieces mainly featured floral, animal and mythological motifs. As a tribute to the craftsman, the label of the bottle takes inspiration from one of the works and displays the shape of a dragon. In the lower section there is depicted an ancient contract related to a selling of a group of ceramics.

 

 

Corte Dei Papi & Argillae: Father and Daughter Wineries

On the Hello, Grappa press tour in May, Michele and I visited the Bonollo Distillery in Torrita di Sienai inTuscany. Bonollo is a very large operation and the Bonollo family own distilleries in other parts of Italy.  In Italy it is against the law to produce distilled spirits and wine on the same property. So Bonollo not only makes grappa under its own label but also for some of the best producers in Tuscany such as Castello Banfi.

At the distillery we were greeted by Maria Carla Bonollo and her daughter Giulia di Cosimo.

Giulia

After a tour of the distillery we had lunch with Giulia Di Cosimo, and her mother At lunch Giulia offered us wines from Argillae Winery, also owned by her family.

Giulia told us about the Argillae estate.  Argillae was founded by Cavaliere del Lavoro Giuseppe Bonollo, founder of the biggest Italian Distillery, Bonollo, Spa. Today his granddaughter Giulia manages the Argillae estate.

I liked the wines and Michele and I visited the Argillae wine, which is in Umbria in May.

Giulia said she would be in NYC in September because her importer Vias was doing a tasting event. She said that the wines of Corte Dei Papi owned by the Di Cosimo family and managed by her father Antonio would be there. We told her we would see her in NYC for the tasting.

At the Vias event we met Giulia and she introduced us to her father

Antonio

Antonio spoke about the Corte Dei Papi (Court of the Popes) Winery.

The Winery is located between the towns of Paliano and Angani, in the heart of the

Cesanese del Piglio DOCG zone. in Lazio. The state covers almost 190 hectares with 25 hectares planted with vines: Cesanese d’ Affile(localCesanese), Passerina, Malvasia Puntinata, Mavlvasia di Candia , Trebbiano and Sauvignon Blanc.

All of the grapes are harvested by hand and vinified immediately.

He said they were inspired by the symbolism and the accuracy of the floor of the Cathedral of Anagani constructed by the Cosmati a Roman family of artists who became famous for the beauty of the mosaics in the 12^th century.

The Wines of Corte Dei Papi

Passerina Del Frusinate IGP 20017 made from 85% Passerina. and 15% Viognier. The vines were planted in 2008. There are 3,500 vines per hectare, at 300 meters and the training system is spurred cordon. The soil is red clay from mountain erosion and volcanic layers. Soft pressing takes place at controlled temperatures. Fermentation lasts from 18to 25 days at 17degreesC with constant remourage. The wine is then stored in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature of 1Degree C. for 6 months and I month in bottle before release. This is a fresh dry white wine with fruity aromas and flavors and hints of citrus, apple and good acidity..

Colle Tricchio DOCG 2016 made from Cesanese Affile and Cesanese Comune with vineyards located in the municipality of Anagni at 300 meters. The vines were planted in 2005, there are 4,000 vines per hectare and the training system is spurred cordon. Vinification is in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature., maceration on the skins for 10 to 15 days. The wine remains in stainless steel for 3months and in bottle for 1 month before release. This is an easy drinking red wine with hints of red fruit and a touch of cherry, plum and violet. The name comes from the Italian word for sparrow; legend has it that a sparrow would only eat the grapes from the Passerina vines.

San Magno DOCG 2015 made from 100% Cesanese del Piglio from selected vineyards in the municipality of Anagni. The wine is vinified at 25 to 26 degrees C and there is frequent pumping over to obtain optimal extraction of color and aromas. With the wine still in contact with the skins, a post fermentation hot maceration is carried out. After malolactic fermentation the wine ages for 16 to 18 months in barriques before being bottled. This is a well structured wine with nice red fruit aromas, hints o f cherry, spice and floral notes. It is a wine that will age.

We told Giulia we would be in Rome in February and she invited us to come to Anagni, visited the Cathedral and the winery.

Visiting Argillae Winery and Lunch in Orvieto

On the Hello, Grappa press tour in May, Michele and I visited the Bonollo Distillery in Tuscany. We had lunch with Giulia Di Cosimo, the daughter of the owner of the distillery. At lunch Giulia offered us wines from Argillae Winery, also owned by her family.

Giulia was getting married in two months and someone at the table suggested that Michele make a “Grappa Cake” for the wedding. Michele agreed and when we returned to NYC Michele contacted Giulia to discuss the cake.

When Guilia found out that we would be returning to Rome a few weeks later, she said we must visit the winery, which is just outside Orvieto. We decided to make spend an afternoon there.

As we stood on a hill with a view of Orvieto and the vineyards, Giulia told us about the Argillae estate. Argillae was established by Cavaliere del Lavoro Giuseppe Bonollo, her grandfather and founder of the biggest Italian Distillery, Bonollo, Spa. Today Giulia manages the Argillae estate.

Giulia

She said the estate covers an area of about 220 hectares between the hills of Allerone and Ficulle, northwest of the town of Orvieto. There are 38 hectares of vineyards. The soil is mostly clay (40%), limestone and rocks but what makes it unique she said is that the area was once covered with water and it contains a lot of fossils such as seashells from the Pilocene period. These fossils enrich the soil with mineral components, which pass into the wine.

The terroir is mostly clay-calcareous and Giulia said this type of soil stays cooler than other soils and works well in hot regions like Umbria. The clayey part retains the water and this helps the grapes during the dry season, while the calcareous part drains well, avoiding diseases caused by stagnation and humidity. Argillae in Latin means clay.

Giulia said that Argillae is a family winery with a clear focus on quality. They do everything they can to protect the environment; to her it is not a philosophy but a way of life. From the hill it was difficult to see the winery and Giulia’s house as they blended in with the surrounding countryside. All of the tanks in the winery are below ground.

Giulia explaining Primo D’Amfora to us

The Wine

Primo D’Amfora 2016 made from Grechetto di Orvietto Drupeggio (aka Canaiolo Bianco) and Malvasia (3% of the Malvasia is late harvest.) The 3 varieties are in 3 separate amphora with skin contact. After two weeks the wines go into stainless steel tanks where they are blended. Then the blended wine goes back into the amphora for another 8 months before it is bottled. Giulia said this is her project because she wanted to produce wine close to the way the ancient Etruscans did. This was the first vintage of the wine and she was waiting for the labels to arrive. This is a full-bodied wine with citrus aromas and flavors, nice minerality, good acidity with a pleasing aftertaste and a long finish.

It went very well with the food we were served.

Giulia took us to lunch at Da Carlo Trattoria In Orvieto.

The owner/chef is Carlo Alberto Cerrini and when I saw “una cucina semplice per persone semplice” written on the menu I knew I would like the restaurant. What even made it more interesting was that Carlo and Giulia are to be married next month!

Orvieto Classico Superiore DOC “Panata” made from 50% Grechetto, 20% Procanico and 30% Chardonnay. There are 4,000 wines per hectare for the Grechetto and Procanico, and for the Chardonnay 3,333 vines per hectare and the training system is guyot. Harvest is by hand and takes place in September. The grape undergoes a brief cold maceration process to obtain the ideal extraction of the aromas and is then pressed very lightly. The musts ferment separately in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. A small potion of the Grechetto must is fermented and refined in oak barriques and everything is then blended together. The wine remains on the lees until it is bottled in March/April. This is a well structured, elegant wine with hints of yellow flowers, grapefruit, nice minerality and good acidity. Giulia said the wine is named for a medieval pitcher used for pouring wine and water traditional characterized by a prominent beak and decorated with animal, floral or mythological motifs.

Carlo sent us out an assortment of his dishes to taste. The first was a type of capocollo that had been sautéed until crispy and finished with balsamic vinegar.

Next we had two crostini, one topped with a chicken liver spread flavored with sweet wine and the other topped with a fava bean and fennel seed puree.

Umbria Rosso IGT “Vascellarus” made from 85% Montepulciano, and 15 Cabernet Sauvignon. The training method is guyot and there are 3,333 vines per hectare. Harvest is by hand in October. The grapes are crushed and destemmed and there is a 25/30-day maceration period with frequent pumpovers on the skins, accompanied by several rack and return procedures. Alcoholic fermentation is in steel tanks at a controlled temperature and malolactic fermentation takes place in barriques. The wine is aged in French barriques with racking on a regular basis, depending on the need. The wine remains in the bottle for another 8/12 months before release. The wine has hints of ripe red fruit, spice, black pepper and vanilla notes.

Giulia said the Vascellari were medieval pottery and ceramic producers in Orvieto. The pieces mainly featured floral, animal and mythological motifs. As a tribute to the craftsman, the label of the bottle takes inspiration from one of the works and it displays the shape of a dragon. In the lower section there is depicted an ancient contract related to a selling of a group of ceramics.

To go with the Vascellarus, Carlo sent out plates of umbrichelli, a type of handmade local pasta similar to pici. It was sauced with pecorino cheese and guanciale.

This was followed by peposo, beef stewed with tomato, red wine and lots of black pepper.

The meal ended with cafè and the best Sambuca I ever tasted made by the Bonollo Distillary

We thanked Giulia and Carlo for a beautiful afternoon and wished them good luck on their upcoming nuptials.

Discovering Argillae: Wine for Food

On the Hello Grappa press tour we visited the Bonollo Distillery, in Tuscany, to have a tour and then to taste their grappa.  After the tour of we were invited to lunch by Maria Carla Bonollo and her daughter Giulia Di Cosimo.

It was one on the few nice days and the view from the Piccola Trattoria Guastini in Torrita di Siena terrace was fantastic.

What we did not know but soon found out was that Giulia is involved with the Argillae Winery in Orvieto in Umbria and we were going to have her wines with lunch.

Giulia told us about the Argillae estate. Argillae was founded by Cavaliere del Lavoro Giuseppe Bonollo, founder of the biggest Italian Distillery, Bonollo, Spa. Today the Argillae estate is managed by his granddaughter Giulia.

Giulia

She said the estate covers an area of about 220 hectares between the hills of Allerone and Ficulle, northwest of the town of Orvieto. The soil is mostly clay, limestone and rocks but what makes it unique she said is that the area was once covered with water and it contains a lot of fossils such as seashells from the Pilocene period. These fossils enrich the soil with mineral components, which pass into the wine.

The terroir is mostly clay-calcareous and Giulia said this type of soil stays cooler than other soils and works well in hot regions like Umbria. The clayey part retains the water and this helps the grapes during the dry season, while the calcareous part drains well, avoiding diseases caused by stagnation and humidity. Argillae in Latin means clay.

They do everything they can to protect the environment; to her it is not a philosophy but a way of life.

The Wines

Tasting and drinking these wines was an unexpected pleasure. These are my kind of wines. All of the wines are vinified in stainless steel so that the natural aromas and flavors of the grape can be found in the wine. They are all excellent food wines and were perfect with the dishes we had for lunch.

Spumante Bianco Brut Metodo Charmat NV 100% Chardonnay from a careful selection of grapes from their own vineyards. The training system is guyot and there are 3,333 plants per hectare. Harvest takes place in August. The grapes undergo a brief maceration process and are lightly pressed. The must is vinified at a controlled temperature in stainless steel tanks. The second fermentation is in autoclave (charmat method) and is followed by a few months refining on the lees to enhance its organoleptic properties. The wine remains in bottle for 3 to 4 months before release. This is an elegant wine with citrus notes, hints of peach and pineapple, good acidity and a long finish. Giulia spoke about how difficult it is to produce a Spumante and how, unlike other producers in the region, they produce it at the winery.

Tortino di Cipolla su Crema di Pecorino di Pienza — Our appetizer was a little onion tort on a bed of pecorino cheese sauce.

Umbria IGP Bianco 2017 made from 100% Grechetto The training system is guyot, there are 4,000 vines per hectare and the harvest takes place in September. After a careful selection in the vineyards, cold maceration takes place. There is a brief pressing and the juice is racked and fermented in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature. The wine remains on the lees in stainless steel tanks before the wine is bottled in February/March. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, a touch of jasmine, good acidity and what Giulia referred to as the typical almond finish.

Orvieto DOC  2016 made from Grechetto, Procanico, Malvasia and Sauvignon Blanc. The training system is Guyot. For the Grechetto and Procanico there are 4,ooo vines per hectare and for the others 3,333 vines per hectare. Harvest takes place in September. Each variety is vinified separately. The grapes are lightly pressed and the juice is racked and fermented in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. The wine remains on the lees until it is bottled in February/March. Giulia said she wished to pay homage to the regional tradition of Umbria by creating a fresh dry white wine with intense aromas of flowers, citrus and tropical fruit. The wine has nice mineral notes, good acidity and a refreshing finish.

Pici al Ragu Bianco di Chianina – Hand rolled spaghetti with a meat sauce made from the local Chianina beef.

Umbria Rosso IGT “ Sinuoso” 2017 means smooth or round. Made from 35% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Montepulicano. The soil is clay-calcareous and the training system is guyot. There are 3,333 plants per hectare and the harvest takes place in October. After destemming and crushing there are 15 days maceration with regular must pump-over on the skins. Both the alcoholic fermentation and the malolactic fermentation are in stainless steel. The wine is subsequently fined for several months and is periodically racked with the addition of oxygen. The wine remains in bottle for 3/4 months before release. This is a fruity red wine with hints of cherry, black current and plum with a long finish.

Anatra al Fiori di Finocchio Selvatico con Sformatino di Zucchine — Roast duck with wild fennel served with baked zucchini

After lunch we went back to the Bonollo Distillery for a grappa tasting- it was a perfect afternoon.