A number of years ago I visited Cantina Sociale Frentana located in the town of Rocco San Giovanni in the Chieti area of Abruzzo. The trip was organized by Franco Bengasi of The Wine Emporium which distributes the wine in the US. At the winery I met the president of the highly acclaimed Cantina Sociale Frentana Cooperative, Carlo Romanelli, who is responsible for much of the success of the winery.
Last week I was invited to a tasting of Vallevo Wines, one of the labels produced by Frentana. Felice Di Biase was there to speak about the winery and the wines. We had the wines with dinner at Tarallucci e Vino on east 18th st. in NYC.
Felice Di Biase sales representative for the winery
Cantina Sociale Frentana Cooperative was founded in 1958 and is one of the first social agricultural cooperatives in Abruzzo. Today there are more than 500 winemakers and 1,000 acres of vineyards associated with the cooperative. Only 15% of the production is bottled, the rest is sold as bulk wine to other producers. The bottled wine comes from the best 100 producers and they are paid more for their grapes. All the wines are made from certified organic grapes.
The picture on the label is of a trabocco, a characteristic site in this part of Abruzzo. Fishermen traditionally built these wooden piers topped with a shed that jut far out from the shore from which to catch fish. Some of them have been turned into restaurants.
The wines
Trebbiano D’Abruzzo DOC 100% Trebbiano d’Abruzzo. The vines are 15-20 years old and have a North/North East exposure. The grapes are soft pressed and native yeasts are added. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks at controlled temperatures. Malolatic fermentation does not take place. The wine is aged in stainless steel for five months before it is bottled. It has aromas and flavors of citrus fruits, yellow plums, a hint of white flowers and good acidity.
Costa Dei Trabocchi Rosato Terre Di Chieti IGT Made from 70% Montepulciano and 30% Merlot. The soil is of medium texture, with some clay and limestone. The vineyard is situated on hills overlooking the Trabocchi Coast with a northeast exposure at 150 to 200 meters. Vinification is with a Provencal technique without pressing in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. Skin contact is only for 3 hours but the wine remains on the lees for 2 weeks in steel tanks to capture the flavor of the grapes. The must is stirred for about one week at 5C. Fermentation is in steel tanks at a controlled temperature. Aging is in steel followed by a few months in bottle before release. The wine has hints of strawberries and raspberries a touch of grapefruit and a note of watermelon.
Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC made from 100% Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. The soil is muddy clay. After pressing and destemming, fermentation is in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature for 7 to 10 days. Malolactic fermentation is in stainless steel. The wine is aged in stainless steel until it is ready to be bottled. This is a fruity, medium bodied wine with hints of plum, black cherry, and violets with a touch of black olives and herbal notes.
The Montepulciano grape produces Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Montepulciano is the most planted grape in Abruzzo and is grown on about 17,000 hectares. It represents 80% of the total DOC wine produced in Abruzzo. The Montepulciano grape has been in Abruzzo since the mid-17th Century.
Costa Dei Trabocchi Montepulciano Dei Abruzzo DOC Riserva made from 100% Montepulciano from Rocco San Giovanni on the best-situated hills overlooking the Costa dei Trabocchi. The soil is medium texture, mostly clay and the vines are 10-15 years old. The exposure is south, southeast. The grapes are soft pressed and fermentation takes place in stainless steel with skin contact for 10 to 15 days depending on the vintage. The wine is aged in 500 liter barrels of Allier oak for about 14 months, then in steel, and finally in bottle until it is ready for release. This is a full bodied wine that has aromas and flavors of violets, plums and black cherry with a hint of vanilla.
They are an excellent value at $20 and under.
Charles Scicolone on Wine 