An invitation to the Collio region of Friuli Venezia-Giulia by the Consorzio Di Tutela Vini Collio was my opportunity to drink some of the great white wines of Italy. I recalled my first visit to the region a number of years ago. At that time, I stayed at Castello di Spessa in Captiva del Friuli and was pleased to be able to return there again. The Castello is now a hotel with beautifully landscaped gardens and a golf course.
Collio is a region of picturesque vineyards with hills covered in vines, woods, and small villages.
The Consorzio DI Tutela Vini Collio was founded in 1964 by the Count Sigismund Douglas Attems di Petzestein and in 1968 the region received the DOC. There are about 270 producers in the Collio and 178 are members of the Consorzio and they produce 7 million bottles. The Consorzio is active in promoting, protecting and enhancing the Collio wines.
Collio is a crescent-shaped sub region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia in the province of Gorizia enclosed between the rivers Judrio and Isonzo. It is right up against the Slovenian border. There are a total of 7,000 hectares with a strong biodiversity, of which 1,300 hectares are vineyards. The vines are located in the municipalities of Gorizia, Capriva, Cormòns, Dolegna del Collio, Farra d’Isonzo, Mossa, San Floriano del Collio and Isonzo San Lorenzo.
Because the Collio region is located between the Julian Alps and the Adriatic Sea it is characterized by a unique microclimate as far as ventilation and temperature. The warmer air is influenced by the hot air streams from the Adriatic Sea which helps to keep the grapes dry. The mountains in the North protect the grapes from the cold winds.
The soil, known as Ponca, is made of stratified marl and sandstone of Eocene origin. It crumbles in the hand revealing tiny fossils. The hills of Collio originate from the rising of the sea bottom. The soil makes wines with characteristic minerality and salinity. Unique wines from a unique soil unmistakable for their taste and aroma.
The were just 3 other wine writers on the trip. The first evening we had a lovely dinner and tasting at Acetaia Braide Alte Livon, located in Ruttars, Dolegna del Collio, which I have visited previously.
We were welcomed by the The President of the Consorzio, David Buzzinelli of Carlo di Pradis winery, and four other board members. The dinner and tasting took place on the terrace of the winery overlooking the vineyards.
One of the highlights of the meal was a Wild Herb Risotto with Gorgonzola Ice Cream and Bacon Crumble.
Consorzio Board Members: Matteo Livon of Livon S.S., Vice President, President Luca Raccaro of Raccaro Soc.Agricola, Vice President Paolo Corso of Tenuta Borgo Conventi, and Alessandro Pascolo of Vini Pascolo.
During the following days, there were formal tastings of Friuliano, Pino Grigio, Ribolla Galla and Sauvignon as well as informal tastings during lunch and dinner.
The formal tastings were led by the English wine writer, Richard Baudains who has lived in the region since 1999. I enjoyed his presentations.
We also tasted Collio Bianco which is the characteristic blend of Collio. Each producer has its own interpretation of the territory and highlights the features of the terroir and of course their own unique style. The Collio Blanco blend can be made of grapes belonging to one or more white varieties, included in the DOC Collio production regulation, with the exception of Müller Thurgau and Traminer Aromatico, which can be included up to 15%. The traditional blend is Malvasia Istriana, Friulano and Ribolla Gialla, so every Collio Bianco is different and surprising.
The Grapes of Collio
There are 17 grape varieties plus Collio Bianco and Collio Rosso.
87% White grapes and 13% Black grapes
The indigenous grape varieties include Friuliano 15%, Ribolla Gialla 11% and Picolit 1%.
International varieties include Pinot Grigio 24%, Sauvignon 18%, Chardonnay 8%, Malvasia Istriana 3% Pinot Bianco 3%, and smaller amounts of Traminer Aromatico, Riesling, and Muller Thurgau.
A specially designed bottle that has a smaller amount of glass is used. It weighs only 500 grams.
The bottle has a longer neck, high quality low section cap, and a yellow capsule with the word Collio engraved on the bague of the bottle.
The Collio Bottle
The yellow capsule
This enables the Collio bottle to be recognized worldwide. Only the highest quality cork is used.
One of the highlights of the trip was a dinner at one of my favorite restaurants in Italy, Trattoria Al Cacciatore La Subida Sirk, in Cormons.
The specialties we enjoyed were Frico, fried Montasio cheese “lollipops,”
and Zlikrofi, small tortelli filled with potatoes and chives.
It was a great Experience.
A special thanks to Federica Schir for making the whole trip possible.
Last week I was invited to a tasting of Vallevo Wines, one of the labels produced by Frentana. Felice Di Biase was there to speak about the winery and the wines. We had the wines with dinner at Tarallucci e Vino on east 18th st. in NYC.
The picture on the label is of a trabocco, a characteristic site in this part of Abruzzo. Fishermen traditionally built these wooden piers topped with a shed that jut far out from the shore from which to catch fish. Some of them have been turned into restaurants.
Trebbiano D’Abruzzo DOC 100% Trebbiano d’Abruzzo. The vines are 15-20 years old and have a North/North East exposure. The grapes are soft pressed and native yeasts are added. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks at controlled temperatures. Malolatic fermentation does not take place. The wine is aged in stainless steel for five months before it is bottled. It has aromas and flavors of citrus fruits, yellow plums, a hint of white flowers and good acidity.
Costa Dei Trabocchi Rosato Terre Di Chieti IGT Made from 70% Montepulciano and 30% Merlot. The soil is of medium texture, with some clay and limestone. The vineyard is situated on hills overlooking the Trabocchi Coast with a northeast exposure at 150 to 200 meters. Vinification is with a Provencal technique without pressing in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. Skin contact is only for 3 hours but the wine remains on the lees for 2 weeks in steel tanks to capture the flavor of the grapes. The must is stirred for about one week at 5C. Fermentation is in steel tanks at a controlled temperature. Aging is in steel followed by a few months in bottle before release. The wine has hints of strawberries and raspberries a touch of grapefruit and a note of watermelon.
Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC made from 100% Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. The soil is muddy clay. After pressing and destemming, fermentation is in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature for 7 to 10 days. Malolactic fermentation is in stainless steel. The wine is aged in stainless steel until it is ready to be bottled. This is a fruity, medium bodied wine with hints of plum, black cherry, and violets with a touch of black olives and herbal notes.
Costa Dei Trabocchi Montepulciano Dei Abruzzo DOC Riserva made from 100% Montepulciano from Rocco San Giovanni on the best-situated hills overlooking the Costa dei Trabocchi. The soil is medium texture, mostly clay and the vines are 10-15 years old. The exposure is south, southeast. The grapes are soft pressed and fermentation takes place in stainless steel with skin contact for 10 to 15 days depending on the vintage. The wine is aged in 500 liter barrels of Allier oak for about 14 months, then in steel, and finally in bottle until it is ready for release. This is a full bodied wine that has aromas and flavors of violets, plums and black cherry with a hint of vanilla.
Campania Aglianico 2018 made from 100% Aglianico from Montemarano (AV) and Mirabella Eclano (AV) at 450/650 meters. The soil is sandy clay. Vines were planted in 1989/1992 and the exposure is northwest. There are 3,000 plants per hectare and the training system is espalier with spurred cordon. Manual harvest from the third week in October to the first week of November. Skin maceration and fermentation is for 15/20 days with periodic pumping-over and délestages. The wine is then aged in French oak barriques for 12 months and in bottle for 12 months before release. The wine has hints of violets, cherry, myrtle and a touch of aromatic herbs. $29.99
Taurasi Riserva “Vigna Olmo” 2013 made from 100% Aglianico planted in 1993 at 870 meters. The soil is mainly clay and the exposure is northwest. There are 4,000 plants per hectare and the training system is espalier with spurred cordon pruning. Manual harvest in the first week of November. Skin maceration and fermentation is for 25/30 days during which pumping over and délestation are done periodically. Following the first racking, malolactic fermentation takes place. The wine is aged in large Slavonian oak casks for 24 months and in bottle for 12/14 months before release. This complex wine has hints of wild berries, dry flowers, red fruit, tobacco and licorice. $75.99
Taurasi Riserva “Hamilton” 2009 DOCG The name is a tribute to Sir William Hamilton, the British Ambassador that contributed to make Napoli at the end of the 18th Century one of the most popular destinations of The Grand Tour. Made from 100% Aglianico planted in 1993 at 870 meters. The soil in mainly clayey and the exposure is northwest. There are 4,000 vines per hectare and the training system is spalliera con potatura a cordon speronato. Harvest is manual the first week of November. There is skin maceration, fermentation at around 28°C for 25-30 days, during which pumping over and délestages take place periodically. Following the first racking, a malolactic fermentation takes place, then the wine goes to large Slavonian oak casks and French oak barriques for 24 months, and finally in bottle for 12-24 months before release. The wine has hints of blackberries, mulberry, eucalyptus with a note of spice and a touch of tobacco. $174.99
Charles Scicolone on Wine 