Piatto Romano — Classics Dishes and More in Roma

For over 50 years, Michele and I have made regular visits to Rome and have gone to many restaurants. A friend living in Rome recommended a restaurant that we had not tried before, so we just had to go.

This restaurant is a short ride from the center and the appearance reminded us of restaurants from our early days in Rome as did the food, wine and prices.

We began with three appetizers:

Olive Ascolane are large green olives pitted and stuffed with a tasty ground meat mixture.  They are rolled in breadcrumbs and fried.

Vignarola is a vegetable stew that you find in many different versions all around Rome in the springtime.  We ate it several times on this trip, as an appetizer, over pasta and even as a main dish.  Though there were a number of variations, they were all good, though this one we decided was the best.  It consisted of peas, artichokes, lettuce and fava beans tossed with crispy strips of guanciale (pork cheek).

Fritti di Fiori di Borragine con Pere — Fried borage flowers was something we had never seen before, though Roman friends say it is another springtime tradition.  Borage has a delicate cucumber flavor and aroma and makes pretty star-shaped blue flowers in the spring though it is usually grown as an herb.  Michele remembers growing it in our garden when we lived in Brooklyn.  In Rome, the flowers were dipped in a delicate tempura-like batter and served with roasted pears.  The flowers were delicate and sweet and tasted mostly of the frying batter but were delightful to eat with the pears.

Pasta Amatriciana — my favorite made here with fresh tomatoes and thick spaghetti as opposed to bucatini and crisp guanciale.

Pasta alla Carbonara — Another Roman classic, thick spaghetti tossed with eggs, pecorino and crispy guanciale.  Michele says it’s so rich, she can only eat it once a year.

The Di Filippo winery is 30-hectares and overlooks Assisi on the hills between Torgiano and Montefalco in the heart of Umbria. Roberto and his sister Emma own it. It is situated in Cannara and nearby is Pian d’Arca, where St. Francis spoke to the birds. I had met Roberto a few years ago at a tasting of his wine in NYC. I was very impressed by his wines and was very happy to see them on the list at the restaurant. Grechetto Umbria IGT 2021 Di Fillipo made from 100% Grechetto grown on a hillside of clayey and calcareous soil. The vine training system is spur cordon/guyot and there are 4,000/5,000 plants per hectare. White wine vinification with fermentation at 18C. Maturation takes place in stainless steel tanks. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, white peaches, pears and a touch of almonds in the finish.   18 Euros

Dessert was a delicious tart filled with ricotta and sour cherry jam.

Dessert — We also tried the very dark chocolate mousse with whipped cream and sour cherries.

Though it features many of the Roman classic dishes, the restaurant menu changes often.  Can’t wait to see what we discover there next time.

Piatto Romano Via Giovanni Battista Bodoni, 62, 00153 Roma RM

Eating around Rome

 

After spending an exciting week in Naples, we left for Rome. A friend who was traveling with us suggested we leave early so that we could arrive in Rome in time for lunch.

Michele suggested La Campana, a restaurant close to the apartment we had rented but also because she remembered the

roasted maialino. She ordered it again.  The meat was moist and fork tender while the skin was crunchy.  It came with potatoes roasted with rosemary.  It is a dish to remember.

Due Ladroni.  This  restaurant specializes  in  fish,  which  is  always  very  fresh.  For  a first course I had

Polpo con Patate.  The potatoes were mashed with olive oil and the grilled octopus tendrils were cooked perfectly.

Next, I had Spaghetti ai Moscardini.

Moscardini are similar to baby octopus, but they are very tiny.  They add a wonderful briny flavor to the sauce, which seemed to contain

little besides some olive oil and the sauteed seafood.

We liked the moscardini so much that we decided to share a plate of Moscardini Fritti.  The waiter explained that these were actually pennette, slightly larger moscardini.

L’Angolo Divino is my favorite wine bar in Rome. Every time I go, I enjoy discussing wine with the owner, Massimo. This time we talked about wines made from the Cesanese grape.     Massimo suggested a mix of 5 Affettati to go with the wine.  They included speck, prosciutto, coppa and a spicy salame.

We also had the Bruschetta Lardo

Assortment of Cheese

Then we had the classic Ravioli filled with ricotta and spinach in a butter and sage sauce

I have often written about Checchino dal 1887, one  of   my  favorite Roman  restaurants.

At lunch, I started with an Artichoke alla Romana, cooked with olive oil and herbs.

I also had a plate of Fagioli e Cotiche,  borlotti  beans  cooked  with  pork  skin  for  smooth  texture  and  porky  flavor.

Checchino’s Pasta Alla Matriciana is my favorite version of this dish.  I always have it with bucatini.

Our friend Daniele Cernili, known as Doctor Wine, happened to be in the restaurant that day and recommended we try the  padellotto, a plate of innards typical of the restaurants in this section of Rome that special in the quinto quarto, the so-called fifth quarter of the animal.  There were kidneys, sweetbreads, liver and intestines, cooked with vinegar and rosemary.

Il Matriciano is another old favorite that disappointed us recently by updating its classic decor.  But we are happy to report that the food is still delicious.  We started with a plate of fried zucchini flowers and carciofi alla giudea, deep fried artichokes.

Abbacchio al Forno con patate

T

The Friday special was Baccalà, salt cod cooked in a tomato sauce with raisins and pine nuts.

Lo’steria  is  new  restaurant  for  us.  We  loved  the  starter,  a paper  sack  filled  with  fried  vegetables,  fried  bacala,  a rice  ball,  etc.  

This was Michele’s Bombolotti alla Matriciana.

I opted for the homemade tagliarini with broccoli.

Trattoria Dal Cavalier Gino  This  our  first  time  here  after  a number  of  years.  I had a classic  spaghetti  alla  carbonara.

Michele had the homemade tagliarini with crispy artichokes.  Loved the crunchy vegetable on top of the creamy pasta.

Finally, we had the Pollo alla Romana, chicken cooked in a rich sauce with green olives, tomatoes and peppers

We still have 9 more days in Rome and Michele  and I looking forward to more wonderful meals.

Due Ladroni — A New Favorite Roman Restaurant

Almost 25 years ago, a restaurateur in NYC told us that next time we are in Rome, we must go to restaurant Due Ladroni (two thieves). Over the years we have passed the restaurant a number of times but never went in. In fact 2 years ago we rented an apartment around the corner and passed it almost every day. Michele said we have to go there one day. Last year friends went for dinner and told us how wonderful it was, the food, service and decor.Finally, last February we rented an apartment a few short blocks from the restaurant. It was very rainy and cold in Rome, so one night we decided to go to Due Ladroni because it was close by. We went for dinner and had a great meal.

When we finished dinner the woman at the next table was still on her main course- -it was langoustine and I could smell the delicious aroma. We went again just before we left Rome and had another great meal. That time, I had the langoustine and  I have been thinking about them ever since.  So  now that we are in Rome again, we returned to Due Ladroni and had another wonderful meal.

Michele had the Tonnarelli Gamberi Pistacchio to start.

 

I had the Spaghetti ai Moscardini.  Moscardini are tiny octopus.

 

For the the main course Michele had the Mazzancola alla Griglia and an insalata mista

Once again, I had the grilled langoustine.

 I also had Broccoletti, something like broccoli rabe but all leaves.  Like all Roman vegetables, it was well done, cooked with a little hot pepper.  

For dessert we had fragolini del bosco, tiny wild strawberries.

The Wine

Due Ladroni is now one of our Roman favorites.  We have been there three times and have always been pleased.  Michele and I plan to be back again soon.

Join Us in Rome for Lunch-Antipasto

Join Michele and I for lunch in Rome.  Here are some of our favorite antipasto choices.

Deep fried Zucchini flowers stuffed with anchovies and mozzarella. I could eat these every day and order them when ever I see them on the menu. These are from Il Matriciano

These I order when ever I go to Armando al Pantheon.  It consists of bruschetta, toasted bread, topped with a quail egg and black truffle shavings and another with lardo and a walnut.  The lardo melts onto to the toast.

Fried Anchovies- -I love fresh anchovies and they fry them to perfection at Cesare al Casaletto.   They are totally different from the canned variety.

Fresh anchovies again, these are marinated with olive oil, parsley and a little garlic at La Torricella.

La Tavernaccia also makes creative bruschette for an antipasto.  We share this trio which included lardo with a dribble of honey on warm toast with olive oil.  The middle one is topped with grilled artichokes, aged pecorino and balsamic vinegar.  The one at the top of the photo is topped with ciausculo, a pate-like spread.  

Michele enjoys the tuna meatballs on a bed of sauteed eggplant and tomato at Due Ladroni

Artichokes Roman Style at Armando are always a great way to begin a meal.  They are steamed with olive oil, garlic and parsley.  They serve them with good fresh mozzarella di bufala.

A salumi platter such as this one at L’Angolo Divino is a good choice too.  Some of the choices include mortadella made with goose meat, prosciutto from Sauris, and speck.

Pork skin with a slightly spicy tomato sauce and beans at Checchino dal 1887.  This is a little on the heavy side for a starter, but I can’t resist it.

Stracchino, a type of fresh cheese with a fig mostarda at Collina Emiliana.  A taste of Emilia-Romagna in Rome.

Moscardini (little octopus) fritti is one of Michele’s favorites at Cesare al Casaletto

Lardo on whole grain crackers from the famous Bonci at L’Angolo Divino

Warm Octopus with potato salad on arugula at Due Ladroni.

More moscardini for Michele, fried baby octopus here fried and marinated with a little garlic, parsley and lemon at La Torricella.

Join us next time for Primi Piatti and the means Pasta!

 

 

Checchino dal1887 a Classic Roman Restaurant

Checchino dal 1887  Via di Monte Testaccio 30

http://www.checcino1887.com     email: checchinoroma.it

Open from 12:30 to 15:00 and from 20:00 to 24     Closed Sunday night and all day Monday

The Mariani Family has owned the restaurant Checchino dal 1887 since it opened in 1887. Francesco Mariani takes care of the front of the house while his brother Elio is in the kitchen.

Francesco and Michele

Considering the wine and the food, it is the best restaurant in Rome with over six hundred wines from Italy and all over the world. The wine is kept in a cellar that was dug into Monte Testaccio, a hill made from broken amphorae, which dates back to Ancient Rome.

The slaughterhouses of Rome used to be located here and the restaurant still specializes in the innards and other spare parts, called the quinto quarto, which the poor people used to eat.

Michele and I first came here 33 years ago and come back every time we are in Rome, which is very often. There is an outdoor space but we prefer to sit inside.

I enjoy speaking with Francesco about wine and like his recommendations. He knows I like older red wines from the area around Rome, especially Fiorano Rosso, Torre Ercolano and Colle Picchione, which are now almost impossible to find, so whenever I come to Rome, he searches his cellar to see what he can find. In February it was a 1971 Fiorano, and the year before a 1983 Colle Picchione. This year he said that he found another bottle of the 1983 Colle Picchione and of course I wanted it.

Colle Picchione 1983, Paola di Mauro, made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. The wine consultant at the time was the legendary Giorgio Grai. The wine consultant today is Riccardo Cotarella. The wines were aged in large oak barrels. I have visited the winery twice and both times drank the 1985 vintage. The 1983 had hints of leather and cherry with a very long finish and great aftertaste. It was as good as it was last time I had it.

To accompany the wine, I started with the Assaggio di Fagioli e Cotiche, pig skin and borlotti beans cooked with tomato. This dish is so good, so intense and so Roman!

 

Michele had Puntarelle con salsa di alici, a seasonal salad of Catalonian chicory with anchovy sauce, one of her favorites.

Bucantini all’Amatriciana — for me this is the best pasta dish and I almost always order it here. We both had it again.

Coda alla vaccinara ox-tail in a tomato sauce.

Fegato di vitello ai ferri — thin slices of grilled veal liver. It may be the best I have ever had, very flavorful and tender.

For dessert we had Torta stracciatella – one of my favorites. A cake with chocolate chips.

Tortino di pere e noci, a spiced pear cake with nuts and chocolate sauce.

Notes

If you go, ask for Francesco and take his advice on both the food and the wine. Be sure to ask if he would show you the wine cellar.

Checchino 1887 was one of the restaurants that took part in the Bio*Sagra for children, held at Fattoria Fiorano to benefit the Hospital Bambino Gesú https://charlesscicolone.wordpress.com/2016/10/04/fiorano-for-kids/

Here is a picture of Francesco serving the pasta e ceci at the event. Michele really likes this.

Mercato Testaccio (Testaccio Market) is just across the street from the restaurant and worth a visit. It is closed on Sunday.

 

 

Restaurant da Enzo, Rome

My next few blogs will be on restaurants in Rome and sites or food stores or markets that are close by.

da Enzo AL 29 Via Dei Vascellari 29 (Trastevere)

12:30 to 3:00PM and 7:30 to 11:00PM Closed Sunday

Phone 065812260

They only accept reservation for dinner

da Enzo, da Enzo, we heard the name over and over again from our Roman and American friends that love traditional Roman food. You have been to Rome so many times and you have never been to Da Enzo? You must go — but we were warned! If you are going for lunch go early, it is a very small place. They do not take reservations for lunch and it can be very busy.

We arrived at 12:30 on the dot and it was empty so we got the best outdoor table by the entrance to the restaurant. Michele, who does not like to be the first one in a restaurant said “we did not have to come this early!”

Within five minutes however, there was a crowd of people coming from all directions. Within 10 minutes the place was filled and within 20 minutes there was a line waiting to get in.

da Enzo is simple traditional Roman food at its best.

The service is brisk but friendly and English is spoken.

We started with Fiori di Zucca, deep-fried zucchini flowers stuffed with mozzarella and anchovies, among the best I have had on this trip. Then La Palla Al 29 — fried balls of cod, potato and cheese. We should have ordered more of them.

We both had pasta Carbonara. It was made with rigatoni, the best guanciale (cured pork cheek) I have ever tasted and the dish seemed much lighter than other versions I have eaten.

Michele was looking forward to the polpette three large meatballs in a tomato sauce, and she really enjoyed them.

I had Trippa Alla Romana –Tripe in a delicious tomato sauce.

We ordered the white house wine, which was very strong, and I cut it with water as the Romans have always done. It went very well with the food.

Last but not least the Torta Del Giorno was a light tender cake with ricotta and cherry filing, and of course caffé.

Three things to note (1) the portions are very large. (2) even with all the food we ordered the bill was only 74 euros! (3) when we left there was still a line waiting to get in.

Worth the Visit

The church of Santa Cecilia is a basilica. There is The Last Judgment by Pietro Cavallini (c.1293) and a baldachino(sculpted canopy) by Arnolfo di Cambio over the altar (late 1200’s) and mosaics.

There is also a famous music school connected with the church, and Cecilia is the patron saint of music. The sound of a student playing the clarinet greeted us when we visited, at other times students play the organ and the violin. It is just down the block from the restaurant:

 

 

Rome: Restaurant by Restaurant

Since we were staying in Rome for 3 weeks, Michele and I decided to try a few restaurants that we had not tried before. Some we always wanted try, but never made it and others we were told about by friends. One was a place we had not been to in a long time.

Flavio Al Velavevodetto – Via di Monte Testaccio 9     Tel   06 57 44 194

This restaurant is around the corner from one of our favorites, Checchino al 1887. It serves traditional Roman food.

We had Bruschetta with burrata and anchovies, bollito meatballs (made from the boiled meats of a bollito misto), rabbit alla cacciatore, fettuccine with pork ragu.

The wines are on the wall in a room to the dining room and diners can go up and choose what they want.

De Cesare Via Del Casaletto, 45-47-49      Tel    06536015

The restaurant is a 20-minute ride from the center on the #8 tram. Take it to the last stop and the restaurant is right across the street. This was our first time here and we really enjoyed it.

Michele and I ate the same things, fried fiori di zucca stuffed with mozzarella and anchovies, fried totani (small squid), skate and broccoli soup, shrimp with tomatoes and sour cherry tart, crostata di visciole.

We drank a Tebbiano di Abruzzo 2014 from Pepe

Osteria Le Mani in Pasta, Via dei Genovesi,37 Trastevere   Tel  06.5816017.

We went here on a Saturday and the restaurant was very crowded and noisy. But it was a good noise — that of people eating good food, drinking wine and having a good time.

Many of the customers were regulars who stopped in at the kitchen to say hello to the chef on the way in and on the way out.

Many people were sharing the pasta dishes, as they were very large. However they were not doing it to eat less as they then ordered another pasta course to share.

To start, we had artichokes alla Romana, and octopus and potato salad, one of our favorites.

Michele had Fettuccine with ricotta salata and pancetta, which she really liked and I had spaghetti Vernaccia with white wine, caramelized onions and bacon. It was very good.

We drank a bottle of Falanghina.

Cul de Sac   Piazza di Piazza di Pasquino 73    Tel  06 68 80 10 94

On our way to The Piazza Navona, we passed an old favorite, Cul de Sac.

We used to go there often but for some reason we had stopped, so we decided to give it a try. It is perfect for lunch, less crowded than at dinnertime.

The salumi, cheese, and pate is much better than the hot food here and you can make a great meal of them. We had the boar pate, prosciutto, finocchiona salami and an assortment of unusual cheeses. They also have a great wine list and the staff is very nice and interested.

Trattoria Perilli,  Via Marmorata 39   Tel  06 575 5100

One review of this restaurant said that they value food over service; therefore the writer did not recommend it for North American tourists who, in his opinion, value service over food.  Michele and I do not agree. It is a true Roman restaurant, full of locals that know good food.

We had rigatoni carbonara, and roast suckling pig.

La Tavernaccia da Bruno – Via Giovanni da Castelbolognese 63    Tel 06.5812792

We had Bruschetta with grilled vegetablies, tagliolini with wild boar ragu, roast pork (yes, again),

mand a delicious ricotta torta with pistachios. The owner is from  Umbria so there is a mixing of Rome and Umbria in the food.

 

 

When in Rome-Our Favorite Restautants

Michele and I rented an apartment in Rome again in February.

We have decided that for us it is better than a winter vacation to Florida, Mexico or the Caribbean. While it may not be as warm, the food is much better and Rome is Rome and we love it. These are the restaurants that Michele and I go back to every time we are in Rome.

Trattoria da Giggetto– Michele and I always go to the same place for lunch when we arrive in Rome.  We drop off our bags and walk to Da Giggetto (39-066861 05) at Portico D’Ottavia 21/A-22 in the Jewish ghetto.

I do not need to look at the menu because I always order the same things: fiori di zucca ripieni con mozzarella e alici.  The flowers were small and crunchy and very good.

I also get carciofi alla giudia  (fried artichoke) and spaghetti con vongole veraci.

The tiny clams were tender and seasoned with just the right amount of parsley, garlic, olive oil and a hint of hot pepper.  Michele had carciofi alla romana, braised artichoke and fettuccine with ragu. We drank the Passerina del Fruisnate IGT 2014 from Feudi Del Sole. It went very well with the food even with the fried artichoke.

Trattoria Armando al Pantheon-Salita de’ Crescenzi 21 This is one of Michele’s favorite restaurants in Rome and one of the restaurants that you have to make a reservation for lunch or dinner. We only started going here a few years ago and have been going there ever since.

I started with grilled bread Roman style with butter and anchovies,  while Michele had Buffalo mozzarella with braised Roan artichoke.

Then we had spaghetti alla Matriciana, chicken in white wine with peppers, and grilled sausages with lentils.

We drank Ghemme 2005 “Collis Brechema” Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo

IL Martriciano Via dei Gracchi, 55    06 32 13 040-06 32 12 327

Michele and I have been coming here for the last 35 years and nothing changes, the owners, the waiters and the menu are the same. I started as usual with a carciofo romano, fried zucchini flowers stuffed with mozzarella and anchovies and of course bucatini matriciana

I had the roasted baccala with potatoes in a tomato and onion sauce, which was delicious.

Michele had Vignarola, peas, artichokes and fava beans.

And for dessert

Ristorante Ar Galletto Piazza Farnese 104   06 686 1714

Michele likes to come here when the weather is warm so we can sit outside because the restaurant is in the Piazza Farnese and she loves the view.

We had fiori di zucca, fried artichoke, spaghetti with fresh anchovies and pecorino.

and crostata for dessert.

We drank Offida Pecorino 2014 “Merlettale” from Ciú Ciú.

Checchino Dal 1887 (www.checchino1887.com), Via  Monte 30 Testaccio.

The Mariani family has owned the restaurant since 1887. Francesco Mariani takes care of the front of the house while his brother Elio is in the kitchen.

Michele and I have been coming here since 1981. It is the restaurant where I drank Fiorano Rosso for the first time. The vintage was 1961

We went with friends that live in Rome and they were surprised when the Francesco came over and the first thing he said was, “I have one bottle of Fiorano Rosso left, the 1983, do you want it?” That was a trick question. Of course I wanted it!

Considering the wine and the food, it is the best restaurant in Rome with over six hundred wines from Italy and all over the world. The wine cellar is dug into Monte Testaccio, a hill made from broken amphorae, which date back to Ancient Rome. Francesco gave us a tour of the cellar that holds over 600 wines.

The slaughterhouses of Rome used to be located here and the restaurant still specializes in the so-called quinto quarto, the fifth quarter, or innards and other spare parts.

We ate Artichoke alla Romana

Bucatini all’Amatriciana

Fegato di Vitello ai ferri, and grilled baby lamb chops.

For dessert

We also drank a Cesanese 2013 “Amarasco” Principe Pallavicini.