A few years ago, Iris Carulli, a mutual friend introduced Michele and I to Maureen Fant. Until that time, we knew of Maureen only by her writings as an Italian food expert and author of several books about Italian food and history. A native New Yorker, Maureen has lived in Rome for many years and describes herself as a “lapsed classicist.” Currently, she is the coprincipal of Elifant Archaeo-Culinary Tours.
Recently, Maureen and her husband Franco Filippi invited Michele and I and a group of friends for lunch in her apartment overlooking the Colosseum in Rome.
Maureen did all the cooking with a little help from her friends and the wines were supplied by Maureen’s husband Franco.
Maureen (second left), Franco (far right), and some of the guests sipping welcome glasses of Ca’del Bosco spumante before the antipasto which included fresh cheeses, marinated carrots, dried tomatoes, olives, marinated anchovies, and many other savory bites.
Franciacorta DOCG Extra Brut 2018 Vintage Collection Ca’ del Bosco (Lombardia) made from 65% Chardonnay, 5% Pinot Bianco and 30% Pinot Nero from 27 certified organic vineyards. Grapes are hand harvested and each individual bunch is washed and dried. Fermentation takes place for 5 months in oak barrels. The wine remains on the yeasts for an average of 48 months. This is an elegant wine with hints of citrus fruit, apple and pear lemon and a touch of pineapple. One of my favorites.
Vino Spumante Brut Metodo Classico Stefanini (Lazio) made from 100% Rossetto. White wine vinification with selected yeasts in steel tanks at a controlled temperature. Malolactic fermentation does not take place. The wine spends 24 months on the lees. This was a first for me. I did not know the wine or the producer. It is a full bodied spumante with hints of citrus fruit, floral notes, a touch of almonds and nice minerality.
Garganelli con sugo di cipolle — pasta with onion sauce
Barolo Bussia Giacomo Fenocchio 2018 100% Nebbiolo varieties Michet and Lampia. Monforte d’Alba-Sottozone Bussia (Piemonte). From a 5 hectare vineyard facing south/southwest at 300 meters. The soil is Helvetian with clayey and calcareous sediments, rich in iron. The vines are 30 years old. Traditional natural fermentation without added yeasts for 40 days in stainless steel tanks. The wine ages for 6 months in stainless steel tanks and 30 months in large Slavonian casks 35 to 50 hl. It remains in the bottle a time before release. This is a classic Barolo with hints of spice, licorice, roses, tar and tea. I visited the winery a few years ago and have always enjoyed their wines.
Roasted Pork Loin with Pancetta and Herbs
Negroamaro Salento IGP Rosso 2013 “Patriglione” Cosimo Taurino made from 100% Negramaro from 40 to 50 year old vines. The vineyard is 15 hectares with a east/west exposure, flat elevation and the soil is calcareous. There are 6,000 plants per hectare and the training system is spurred Apulian small trees. The grapes are picked late the second week of October. The fermentation tanks are vitrified concrete and there is an automatic cooling system. Fermentation is for 10/15 days with 8/12 days skin contact.This is a wine that will age for many years. It has hints of dry black fruit, blackberries blueberries, prune and raisins. I have been drinking the wines from Cosimo Taurino for many years.
On the plate. Roast pork loin, mashed potatoes, braised artichokes and pearl onions agrodolce.
Our dessert was made by another guest, Susan Westmoreland.
It was a rich and spicy ginger cake served with braised apples and whipped cream.
Thank you Maureen and Franco for a delicious Roman meal with great friends!
Charles Scicolone on Wine 