I have never had a pizza made by Ciro Iovine at any one of his four Song’ E Napule Pizzeria and Trattoria restaurants.
But I have had his handmade pizzas at several events where he was one of the guest pizzaioli.
I took this picture of Ciro a few years ago at an event where the art of Neapolitan pizzamaking was being granted World Heritage Status by the United Nations and was being added to UNESCO’s “Intangible list.”
Recently I attended a Masterclass PizzaLab promotion for Italian Cuisine in the World in NYC. Ciro one one of two pizzaioli making pizza at the event. After tasting his pizza, I have come to the conclusion that he is a great pizzaiolo in the Neapolitan tradition.
Ciro is on the right
While visiting a friend in New Jersey recently, I had an opportunity to have lunch at the Rutherford branch of Song’ E Napule (from the song by Pino Daniele). Ciro wasn’t there making the pizza for us personally, but his spirit and love for the food of Napoli was evident in everything we ate. Here is what we had:
Calamari Fritti served with San Marzano tomato sauce. Fried calamari are served everywhere, but these were exceptional. Perfectly fried, crunchy and not at all greasy.
Insalata Di Polpo: chilled Mediterranean octopus, organic parsley and lemon citronette dressing. Tender octopus with arugula in a tangy dressing.
A surprise offering from the chef was a slice of melted provola cheese in a breadcrumb crust topped with tomato sauce, which we devoured.
The Pizza Oven
The Pizza
Pizza Margherita — Tomato Sauce (made with Slow Food San Marzano DOP eccellenze nolane tomatoes), mozzarella (fiordilatte di Agerola), basil and extra virgin olive oil.
Vegetarian Pizza –Tomato sauce Slow Food (San Marzano DOP eccellenze nolane), mozzarella (fiordilatte di agerola), zucchini, eggplant, mushrooms, artichoke, broccoli rabe, basil and extra virgin olive oil.
Pizza Napoletana –Tomato sauce Slow Food (San Marzano DOP eccellenze nolane), mozzarella (fiordilatte di agerola), anchovies, basil, and extra virgin olive oil.
Barbera d’ Asti “Vigna Noce” 1997 Antica Azienda Agricola Trinchero. Made from 100% Barbera. The winery belongs to the Triple “A” Agriculture Artisans Artists, an association of wine producers from around the world that believes in Organic and Bio-Dynamic production, terroir and as little interference as possible by the wine maker. Only natural yeast is used, there is no acidification of the wine, clarification and filtration does not take place. Chemical treatments are not used in the vineyards; copper and sulfur are used but only when it is really necessary. The wine is aged for 7 years in large chestnut barrels. This is a traditional, classic Barbera that will last for at least another 5/10 years.
For a sweet finish, we had Pizza Dough Fritters drizzled with Nutella imported from Italy.
A good espresso is the perfect ending.
Song’ E Napule is located at 106 Park Ave, Rutherford NJ (201) 347-9339.
There are 3 other locations all in Manhattan: 146 West Houston St., 646 Amsterdam Ave, and 132 West Houston St.
I look forward to the day when I can have pizza made personally by Ciro at one of his restaurants.
Charles Scicolone on Wine 