Wine from the Island of Giglio

In March, thanks to Federica Schir (federica@federicaschir-pr.com), Michele and I visited Tenuta Casenuove in  Panzano in Chianti. There we met Alessandro Fonseca  the General Manager of the state and an agronomist.  He told us that the owner is Philippe Austruy, a French entrepreneur, art collector, and wine lover, who also owns prestigious wineries in France and Portugal.

At the end of the tasting of the wines of Tenuta Casenuove,  we saw a short film about another of Mr. Austruy’s wineries located on the island of Giglio, the pearl of the Tuscan archipelago. With the help of Alessandro, Mr. Austruy purchased a vineyard corner of uncontaminated land whose terraced rows are supported by ancient dry stone walls.  The vineyard is 1.2 hectares and it overlooks the sea.

From the beginning, the Tenuta Isola nel Giglio project focussed on Ansonica, a grape variety that has thrived in the terroir of this Mediterranean island over the centuries.  After watching the film, it was easy to  understand why Mr. Austruy was so fascinated by the beauty of the island.

According to tradition the grapes are harvested by hand from the Finoccio vineyard.  The workers carry the boxes of grapes on their shoulders through the holm oak woods to the access point closest to the road.

Careful monitoring of the temperature-controlled fermentation of the must with the pomace encourages the development of a tannic texture without excesses. The wine is refined in porcelain containers – a contemporary evolution of terracotta amphorae – and wooden barrels. A rest in the bottle follows the refinement to give this multifaceted wine time to best express its potential.

The Wine

IGT Toscana Bianco “Scoglio Nero” 2019 made from 100% Ansonica, Soil is granitic sands dating back to a million years ago. Mediterranean climate characterized by hot and very dry summers, very little rainfall especially during the growing season of the vine. Harvest takes place the first ten days of September.

The grapes, harvested rigorously by hand, are de-stemmed when delivered to the cellar, fermented without pressing and vinified in steel containers at a controlled temperature. The duration of maceration continues throughout the alcoholic fermentation phase and, depending on the degree of maturation, can also continue in the subsequent phase of aging on the lees. Part of the wine obtained is aged in second and third passage barriques, while the remaining part is aged in stoneware containers, to ensure the right degree of micro-oxygenation necessary for the evolution of the tannic matrix extracted during the maceration phase. Aging is for 30 months of which 18 is in the bottle. The wine was bottled on October 6 2020.  The wine is put on the market three years after the harvest after adequate rest in the bottle.

They produce only this one wine and only 800 bottles.

The name Scoglio Nero to a toponym that pays homage to the dark rock formation of the Island.

The wine has hints of ripe yellow peaches, medlar, helichrysum and chamomile, delicately tropical  fruit, notes of thyme and marjoram and a touch of hazelnut. It has a very pleasing aftertaste and a long finish.

I felt very privileged to taste this rare and special white wine that will age.

Bill’s Blend

BILL’S BLEND is the name on the label of Bill Whiting’s new line of wines.

Bill is an old friend and though he has been in the wine business for many years, his dream of creating his own wines was only realized when he successfully bid on one ton of Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon grapes and a French/American oak barrel while he was attending the Washington Grape Growers Association annual fundraiser.   It was a life-changing experience.  Soon he was able to produce the first vintage of BILL’S BLEND which was released for family and close friends. The wine was a smashing success.

Anyone that knows wine or has been in the wine business knows Bill and his long association with wine. His family has been in the wine business since 1919. America is home but Italian blood flows through his veins.

His grandfather was born in Connecticut in 1895.  At a young age,”Pop” was sent to Italy and placed under the tutelage of his Aunt Teodolinda, who supervised the household staff for Pope Pius XI.  Teodolinda was passionate about hospitality and oversaw the cellar for the Pontiff. “Pop” mirrored her enthusiasm the two passed their knowledge to Bill’s mother Joan, who in turn motivated Bill and his brothers.

Bill’s Blend Rosè Red Mountain AVA 2022 made from 52% Malbec, 50%, Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Petit Verdot all from the Kiona “Heart of  the Hill” single vineyard in the Red Mountain AVA at 784 feet. The soil is 53% Warden silt loam, 45% Finley stony and fine sandy loam and 2% Scooteney silt loam. The training system is bi-lateral cordon. Harvest is from October 14 to November 1.  100% Saignée tank fermentation in stainless steel for 14 days. Only the free run juice which is the highest quality juice is used because it has no contact with the seeds (pips) and skins. The wine is then aged in stainless steel. No malolactic fermentation. The wine was bottled August 14, 2023. This is a Rosè that will age for a few years. $25

Note: All net proceeds for the 2022 Bill’s Blend Rosè were donated to five different  Maui charities to help them rebuild after what has been deemed one of the deadliest wildfires in U. S. history.

Bill’s Blend Red Red Mountain AVA 2020 made from 78% Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon, 12% Malbec and 10% Petit Verdot from Kiona “Heart of the Hill”(86%) and Thurtle (14%) vineyards.  Soil same as above as is the training  system. Harvest is from October 6th to 24th.  Each variety was hand sorted  and fermented separately.  The whole berries were destemmed and crushed and fermentation is for 14 days on the skins for 14 days. The wine is aged for 32 months in French oak of which 30% is new with a medium roast. The wine was bottled on August 14, 20023. The wine has hints of red plums, cassis, raspberry, black cherry, a hint of violets and a touch of cocoa. This wine will age for 10 to 15 years. $48

Note: Located on a southwest-facing slope in south central Washington, a three-and-a-half-hour drive from Seattle, Red Mountain is one the smallest, warmest and most sought-after wine growing area in Washington State (and the world).

The samples were delivered  by Bill in person

To find out where you can buy these wines, write to  bill@billsblendwine.com.

Petrolo Winery at Restaurant Felice 83

I-italy-tv aired on NYC Live channel 25 in New York for several years.  For part of that time, Michele and I were assigned the task of visiting Italian restaurants and interviewing the chefs.  One of the restaurants where we taped the show was Felice on Manhattan’s Upper East Side.  Today there are several Felice locations across Manhattan, Brooklyn, Long Island and Florida but at that time that was the only one. The Felice Restaurants are a part of the SA Hospitality Group and an extension of Fattoria Sardi Winery from Lucca in Tuscany. 

Recently we were invited by Christian Tripodi, the Sommelier at Saint Ambroeus, to attend a dinner at Felice 83 featuring the wines of Petrolo. We were greeted by the wine director, Christian Ferrulli, who I have known for a number of years.

The speaker was Luca Sanjust from the winery.  He runs the Petrolo Estate of the historic Bazzocchi-Sanjust family.

The Petrolo Estate is located in Tuscany at the site of what was originally a small medieval town called Galatrona.  A stone tower from this period (itself built on foundations dating back to the Roman era) still exists on the property.

Petrolo Winery is owned by 4 generations by the Bazzocchi-Sanjust Family. The estate extends over 109 acres, 825 to 1,500 feet above sea level, in an area known for prestigious wines since the Renaissance.

The vineyards are set in Val d’Arno Superiore, among the hills of the “Chianti Colli Aretini,” bordering southeastern Chianti Classico. The somewhat loosely packed soil in the area features layers of clay stone, shale and limestone.

Since 2004 they have been abandoning traditional farming methods and practicing natural and sustainable solutions: dry farming and no fertilization, no tillage, total grassing with mulch management, and no use of synthetic pesticides. In 2016 the winery obtained official Organic Certification.

The dinner started with Taglieri di Formaggio: herbed goat cheese, pecorino, and manchego with fruit along with a crostone topped with burrata and zucchini.

Petrolo Bòggina B 2021 IGT Toscana Trebbiano produced from plants of Tuscan Trebbiano selected in Valdarno and planted in the ‘70s at Petrolo in the “Poggio” vineyard. They have been recently replanted below the Bòggina vineyard using the same original clones. Manual harvest in crates. Grape selection with sorting table. Natural vinification with native yeasts in tonneaux. The wine ages on the sur lies for over 15 months in special selected French oak tonneaux. The constant batonnage the wine receives during the first months is then gradually decreased. The wine is never racked until bottling.The wine has hints of citrus fruit, lemon, orange blossom with a touch of honey, a note of spicy herbs and a steel quality.

Melanzane alla Parmigiana: Eggplant Parmigiano

Petrolo Bòggina A ( Anfora) 2021 Val d’Arno di Sopra DOC – Vigna Bòggina, Sangiovese. Estate produced and bottled. Made from 100% Sangiovese, certified  organic. Vinification is made in terracotta amphorae of 300 and 500 liters from a meticulous selection of the best grapes of the Bòggina vineyard harvested by hand and further selected with a sorting table. Almost no sulfites are added.  Natural fermentation is carried out with native yeast and manual “cap” plungings. As fermentation ends, the amphorae are sealed with the skins for about an 8-month long maceration. After the skins’ removal, the wine will continue its aging in amphorae for another 6 months. Amphorae allow a similar microxygenation as barriques, avoiding reduction excesses but preventing barrique flavoring. The wine is naturally protected thanks to the extended contact with the skins without the use of sulphites. The wine has hints of dried cherries, red plum, strawberry, blood orange and a hint of pepper. 

Lasagnette al Ragu di Vitello: Lasagna with a rich veal ragù, bechamel sauce and Parmigiano-Reggiano followed.

Bòggina C Val d’Arno di Sopra DOC-Vigna Bòggina, Sangiovese Estates produced and bottled,100% Sangiovese organic.  Manual harvest in crates. Grape selection with sorting table. Natural vinification with native yeasts in glazed concrete vats. Soft and frequent manual pumping overs. Spontaneous malolactic fermentation in wood. For about 16/18 months in rigorously selected French oak 22 Hl barrels and 7 Hl tonneaux. The wine has ripe fruit aromas and flavors with hints of black cherry, plum, lavender, and spice with a touch of tobacco and a hint of espresso.

Torrione Val d’Arno di Spora DOC Pierraviva. Estate produced and bottled made from 80% Sangiovese, 15% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Sangiovese. Hand harvest and grape selection with sorting table.   Torrione is made from the Sangiovese grapes coming from the winery’s historical vineyards of the 70’s and from more recent ones. Vineyards were planted following meticulous zoning that enabled the owners to identify the most suitable rootstocks and the optimal plant density. The yield per plant is very limited (max 1Kg per plant) allowing the concentration of all the noble components of the grape fundamental to the great structure, elegance and balance wanted for this wine. Vinification is with all native yeasts in glazed concrete vats. Soft and frequent manual pumping overs. Spontaneous malolactic fermentation in wood. Maturation in concrete tanks, French oak 40Hl barrels, tonneaux and barriques for 15/18 months. This is a complex and structured wine with hints of blueberries, blackberries, dark cherry with a hint of tobacco and a touch of spice.

Luca said Petrolo is the beginning of the winery’s new approach to winemaking aiming to produce wines of the highest quality. Torrione is the “chateau” of Petrolo, a blend of the grapes of all the vineyards of Petrolo: not only Sangiovese from Bòggina but also from other historical vineyards of Petrolo, including Merlot from Galatrona and Cabernet Sauvignon from Campo Lusso. A perfect example of a balanced, clear and deep red. A wine that tells, better than any other, the true identity of our territory.

Peposo con Polenta Cremosa: Beef stew cooked in red wine with black peppercorns served with creamy polenta

Petrolo Galatrona 2021 Val d.Arno di Sour DOC ORGANIC made from 100% Merlot. Luca said this “Grand Cru” of Merlot is only made with the grapes from the vineyard of the same name planted between the end of the 80’s and half of the 90’s with low vigor bordeaux clones. The soil is rich in clay, with schist, marl and sandstone. There are 5,500 plants per hectare. Manual harvest in crates and further grape selection with sorting table. Natural vinification with native yeasts in cement vats. Manual soft and frequent pumping overs. There is spontaneous malolactic fermentation in wood. Maturation in French oak barriques, a third new, for about 18 – 20 months. Constant batonnage of the fine lees for the first 6 months. This is a full bodied aromatic wine with hints of blackberries, black cherry, violets, licorice and a touch of chocolate and a hint of smokey oak. $98

Petrolo Galatrona 2011 This wine was much more developed than the 2021. howing no signs of age and it was the wine of the evening for me. $ 100

Dinner ended on a sweet and satisfying note with an individual Tortino al Cioccolato con Sorbetto al Lampone: a warm chocolate cake served with raspberry sorbet.

Felice 83  (212) 249 4080 – felice83@felicerestaurants.com 1593 1st Avv at 83 St.

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Càduferrà Wines from Liguria

Federica Schir (federica@federicaschir-pr.com) organized a wine tasting and dinner when I was in Rome recently with wines from four wineries. Last week I reported on the wines of Tenuta Rottensteiner with Hannes Rottensteiner. Here is my report on the wines of Càduferrà, represented by Davide Zoppi and his husband, Giuseppe Luciano Aieta.

Davide and Giuseppi

The Càduferrà Winery started more than 30 years ago when Antonio Zoppi, originally from Bonassolo met and married Aida Forgione from Campania.  Aida, named for the opera by Giuseppe Verdi, is a winemaker and the young couple  decided to quit their jobs and move to Bonassolo on the Ligurian Coast and  produce wine. Over the years they bought farmhouses and land in the surrounding area, including the Cinque Terre, and began to plant vines. In 2000, they named their winery Càduferrà, a dialect expression meaning “blacksmith’s house” because the rows of vines now cover an area where horses were shoed in the past.

Davide, their son, and Giuseppe recently joined his parents in operating the property. Their plan is to look toward the future with an eye on the past. Together they turned the property into an agriturismo or holiday farm to attract tourism and modernized the winery.

Davide said their pride is the recovery of rare and ancient vines as a way of returning to the past and respecting the place as it originally was. To rediscover the original viticultural crops, in its Bonassola soils, they aim to bring back varieties such as Ruzzese, Rossese Bianco, Picabon and Albarola Kihlgren, which have been present in the Cinque Terre and the eastern coast of Liguria since ancient times, but have been partially forgotten throughout recent history.

Càduferrà is located between the Golfo deli Poeti and the Gulf del Tigullio, 35 km from La Spezia and 50 km from Genoa.

The Vines and Wines

There are 4.5 seaside hectares divided into 11 tiny vineyard sites and crus. The vine rows are pergola trained and look out on the sea.  Unlike most other wineries, all of the vineyards are multi-varietal with the white Albarolo, Vermentino and Bosco  grown together and the red Sangiovese, Merlot, Ciliegiolo, Syrah and Granaccia as well as the rare Vermentino Nero grown together. The vineyards are certified organic and the oenologist is internationally reknowned Graziana Grassini.

Colline Di Levanto Bianco DOP “Bonazolae” 2002 made from Vermentino, Albarola and Bosco grown on the Bonassola hills on the Ligurian coast. Some of the soil is rich in clay, of medium texture and some soil is lean and rich in sandstone skelton. After a short skin maceration the must obtained from the direct pressing of the grapes is decanted and only the limpid part ferments in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks.  The wine remains on the lees with repeated bâtonnage. The new wine is bottled before the Easter holidays the year after the harvest. The wine has hints of jasmine, citrus, tropical fruit and floral notes.

Colline di Levanto Vermentino 2022 “Luccicante” made from 100% Vermentino. Various and characteristic soils with a clay composition, medium textured, originating from the tectonic uplift of marine terraces. After a short skin maceration the must obtained from the direct pressing of the grapes is decanted  and only the limpid part ferments in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. The wine remains on the lees with repeated bâtonnage The new wine is bottled before the Easter holidays, the year after the harvest. The wine has hits of chamomile, white peaches, apples, white flowers, almonds and citrus notes.

Liguria di Levante DOP Magia di Rosa 2022 made from Sangiovese, Vermentino and Syrah. The soil is various and characteristic, mostly clayey with a medium mixture. After a short maceration, the must obtained from direct pressing of the grapes is decanted, only the limpid part ferments in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. The new wine is bottled before the Easter holidays, the year after the harvest. The wine has hints of strawberry, raspberry, white peach and a hint of jasmine.

Colline Di Levanto Rosso “ ‘Ngilù” 2022 made from Sangiovese, Ciliegiolo, Merlot, Grenache, Vermentino Nero and Syrah.  Soil is various and characteristic, mostly clay with a medium mixture. Alcoholic fermentation in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature. After removing the must from the wine, the fermentation process continues in the same stainless steel vats. The wine is aged in stainless steel vats for a minimum of 6 months. The wine has hints of pomegranate, raspberry. red cherry and a hint of strawberry. This is the first time I have tried a wine with Vermentino Nero!

Davide’s passion for his winery really shows through and I was impressed by all his wines.  I particularly enjoyed tasting some of the lesser-known varieties.

Caduferra also makes Liguria di Levante Passito Bianco l’ Intraprendente  made from Bosco, Vermentino and Albarola and a Liguria di  Levante Passito Bianco Ruzzese.

Rottensteiner: Winemaking on the Red Stone

When Michele and I were in Rome, Federica Schir <federica@federicaschir-pr.com> arranged a tasting and dinner at a very famous restaurant, Alfredo Alla Scrofa.  The restaurant is one of two Roman restaurants that claim to be the originators of fettuccine Alfredo, a rich plate of eggy fresh fettuccine pasta tossed with butter and Parmigiano Reggiano cheese.  In this country, cream is often added to the dish, but its an absolute no-no at Alfredo’s.  To go with our meal, there were  wines from four different producers:  Tenuta Rottensteiner (Bolzano), Càduferrà (Liguria) Rizzini (Franciacorta) and Vallarom(Trentino).  It was quite a feast.

Here is my report on the Tenuta Rottensteiner wines.

Federica introduced Hannes Rottensteiner from Tenuta Hans Rottensteiner. Hannes  is the  winemaker and jointly conducts the affairs of the winery with his father Anton (Toni) with the help of other members of the family. Hannes’ wife Judith takes care of sales and marketing and two of his sisters, Eli and Silvia, supply grapes to the winery.

Hannes said there are documents that confirm there were vines planted on Rottensteiner land in 1527. The modern story begins however in 1956 when Hans Rottensteiner, Hannes grandfather founded the winery that bears his name.

They not only use grapes from the family’s 10 hectares but also grapes from 50 regional grape growers and make 16 different varieties of white and red wine.

Hannes told us that his family is one of the oldest wine-growing families in South Tyrol. Their winemaking history began many generations ago in this area where the vines grow on porphyry, the red rock typical of this region. Their surname is also the namesake of the red rock.

Bolzano lies on a giant porphyry slab. This red rock is clearly visible all around the city and significantly influences the mineral character of the wine produced here.

The wines

Südtirol-Alto Adige DOC Weissburgunder Pinot Bianco “Carnol” 2023 made from 100% Pinot Bianco. The training system is guyot and the soils sandy, loamy, wand porphyry. The “Carnol” takes the name of Hannes father, Toni Rottensteiner’s, birthplace. The grapes come from the best Pinot Blanc vineyards around Bolzano grown on very mineral soils. Hannes said this origin and careful work in the vineyard give the wine all the characteristics which make the Pinot Blanc so special. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, apples, peach a touch of spice and a hint of white flowers.

Südtirol-Alto Adige DOC Pinot Grigio 2023 made from 100% Pinot Gris. The soil is gravel. slightly loamy and porphyry. The training system is pergola and guyot. Vinification is in steel tanks. After fermentation the wine ages in steel tanks.  Hannes said, “Our Pinot Grigio grows in Branzollo and Frangarto, two villages in the South of Bolzano, one in the valley, the other one on a slight slope, at an altitude of 250 – 300 meters. Another part comes from S. Giacomo in Sabbia next to Bolzano at 450 meters and from Auna di Sotto at 600 meters. In this way, we have a full-bodied, structured, but also minerally and elegant wine.” The wine has notes of citrus fruit, peach, pear, light spice and a touch of banana.

Hannes said that although the Pinot Grigio is a relative of the Pinot Bianco, the wines quite different – not only because of the copper-colored berries of the Pinot Grigio, but also because of the characteristics of the wines. The Pinot Grigio is more complex, with more intense color and notes of banana, vanilla and spices.

Südtirol-Alto Adige Schiava made from 100% Schiava from the Nussbaumer estate in Mission near Bolzano. Sandy and sedimentary soil and the training system is the pergola. Vinification is in stainless steel. After fermentation the wine matures in stainless steel tanks. This is a light and easy wine to drink and can accompany many different foods. It is wine that should be drunk young. It has hints of strawberry and raspberry, violets, cherry and a hint of almonds.

Südtirol-Alto Adige DOC Santa Maddalena Classico “Vigna Premstallerhof” 2023 made from 93% Schiava and 7% Lagrein. The Premstallerhof estate, located in Santa Maddalena at 400 to 500 meters above sea level and with approximately four hectares, is not only one of the largest, but also one of the best estates in the area. It has been owned by the family Vogel since 1962. They are Swiss wine importers, who turned a dream into reality in buying a vineyard in the St. Magdalena area. Gertrud Vogel directly cultivates the vineyard according to the biodynamical philosophy. The South-East exposure, together with the excellent topographic conditions and the loose porphyry soil, make for one of the best DOC St. Magdalener, the Premstallerhof. Fermentation is in steel tanks and the wine matures in concrete and large wooden barrels. Hannes said St. Magdalener is one of the most famous wines of South Tyrol. Traditionally, the two varieties Schiava and Lagrein are planted together in the same vineyard. The wine has great length with hints of violets, cherries and a slight bitter almond finish.

Select Pinot Noir Riserva 2020 made from 100% Pinot Noir from the Nussbaumerhof estate in Mission (Appiano). The soil is sandy porphyry and the training system is guyot. This Pinot Noir comes from the best Pinot Noir vineyards in Bolzano. Abundant sun during the day, cool nights, good aeration, great attention during yield control and in the management of the microclimate in the vineyard. The wine spends 12 months in barriques the wine has hints of . cherry, raspberry  spice, vanilla a hint of mushroom.

Südtirol-Alto Adige DOC Select Lagrein Gries Riserva  2021 made from 100% Lagrein which grows in three vineyards in the center of Bolzano Gries where there are deep sedimentary soils with more than 30 year-old grapevines.  The training system is guyot.  Vinification is in French barriques. This is a full bodied red wine hints of violets, chocolate, blackberries and a touch of tobacco. Hannes said the tradition and modernity of the Rottensteiner family finds its clearest expression in this wine.

We enjoyed meeting Hannes and tasting all of his wines.  Next week, more about our dinner and the other wines we tasted.

Visiting Tenuta Casenuove

When Federica Schir (federica@federicaschir-pr.com) heard that Michele and I were in Rome a few weeks ago, she invited us to meet her at Tenuta Casenuove in the Chianti Classico Zone. We took the train from Rome to Florence and met Federica at the station. The winery is located in the heart of Tuscany near the town of Panzano, between Florence and Siena.

At the winery we met Alessandro Fonseca, an agronomist who is the General Manager and Wine Director of the estate. He told us that the history of the property goes back to the 1600’s but the modern story begins in 2015 when it was acquired by Philippe Austruy, an entrepreneur, art collector, and wine lover who also owns prestigious wineries in France and Portugal.

The vineyards

He undertook a complete renovation of the estate which comprises 120 hectares of rolling hills.  Vines, woodlands and olive groves coexist in this part of Tuscany celebrated for its biodiversity.  There are 30 hectares of vineyards at about 450 meters which are dedicated to the production of red wine.

Cosimo Casini in the Cellar

Alessandro hired enologist Cosimo Casini to direct all of the vineyards, and cellar master Maria Sole Zoli. Together they are a very talented team.  Cosimo took us on a tour of the vineyards and spoke about the terroir and explained why certain grape varieties were planted in specific soil.  In the cellar he said they produce a very traditional Chianti Classico Classico but use the latest innovative techniques to make the wine.

He pointed to a tank the size of a barrique made of steel, not wood. He said it imparts all of the elements of barriques without adding any wood flavor.

The wines of Tenuta Casenuove

ZIIK Spumante Rosé Charmat Metodo Extra Brut Bio made from 100% Sangiovese. Limestone clay soil of marine origin. The exposure is south/southwest. Harvest takes place the last week of August and the first week of September.  The grapes are harvested manually, according to a rigorous selection from the areas most suited to sparkling wine. Once in the cellar the grapes are crushed by soft pressing and constantly monitored with several tastings to understand the exact moment of the end of the pressing. This is to guarantee only the best, most delicate, fresh and aromatic part of the pressing, free from vegetable astringencies and excessive hardness. This is followed by a cold static decantation of the grape must obtained without the use of any additives.  After that, alcoholic fermentation takes place in a controlled temperature steel tank, respecting all the organic production protocols. The wine is bottled in March the year following the harvest after 4 months on the lees.

Chianti Classico DOCG 2020 made from 90% Sangiovese, 6% Cannaiolo and 4% Merlot. The soil is a mix of limestone and clay dating back to the Cretaceous Oligocene era with the presence of galestro and sandstone coming from the disintegration of the “Macigno del Chianti” rock. Harvest is the second week of September to the first ten days in October. In the cellar, the bunches are sorted and then the grapes. Vinification is in raw concrete tanks filled by gravity. The grapes are gently placed in the tanks without using mechanical pumps that could damage the grapes.

Cosimo said this step is essential to manage the “whole grape” winemaking and it affects the entire architectural design of the winery and the purchase of sorting machines. Once fermentation has started, pumping over and delestage are carried out during the entire period, up to 25 days. A vertical press is used for racking and pressing.

The wine is aged 6 to 8 months in a concrete tank and in 45 HL Slavonian oak barrels and 18 months in bottled before it is released. The wine has floral notes with hints of black and red fruit, violets and maraschino cherry.

Cosimo said 2020 was a fairly regular vintage. It was complicated, however, by the lockdown and the restrictions imposed to protect against the Covid-19 epidemic which greatly complicated normal wine management.

Chianti Classico DOC 2019 Riserva made from 100% Sangiovese. The soil is a mix of limestone clays of marine origin with the presence of galestro. Vinification is the same as above.  The wine is aged in 25HL Slavonian casks and 500 liter tonneaux of first and second passage for 12 months and in bottle for 24/30 months before release. It has flavors and aromas raspberry and blackberry with balsamic notes, floral hints and pleasant acidity.

Chianti Classico DOCG 2019 Gran Selezione made from 100% Sangiovese. The soil is a mix of limestone and clay dating back to the Cretaceous Oligocene era with the presence galestro of particular selections from the Sopratorre-Pozzo vineyard. Harvest takes place the first week of October. Once fermentation has started, pumping over and delestage are carried out during the time in the tank up to 30 days. A vertical press is used for racking and pressing. The wine is aged for 20 months in large Slavonian oak barrels and in bottle for 36 months before release. This is an elegant complex wine with hints of violets, wild berries, cherries, tobacco leaf with a very long finish and pleasing aftertaste. The wine can age for 10 years or more. Cosimo said “this wine is the maximum expression of the Sangiovese from Panzano, a true expression of the terroir of our estate.”

Cosimo said 2019 was a very balanced vintage. There were rains that allowed an excellent water reserve in the soils but did not create problems for fungus diseases.

IGT Toscana 2020 Tenuta Casenuove made from 60% Sangiovese, 35% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc.  Cosimo said the plot selection was chosen because it is characterized by evident outcrops of galestro, less fertile and suited to quality viticulture.  Harvest is from the middle of September to the first 10 days of October.  Vinification is in vitrified cement tanks at a controlled temperature. Once fermentation has has started pumping over and delestage are carried out for up to 30 days. A vertical press is used for racking and pressing. The wine is aged for 12 months in cement tanks, large Slavonian oak barrels and barriques for 12 months, then in bottle for 30 months before release. This is a big rich, complex wine, dense and concentrated with ripe black and red fruit, spice snd a touch of mocha. It is a wine with great aging potential and could age for 20 years.

After our tour, we enjoyed a tasting of the wines, followed by dinner with Federica, Alessandro and Cosimo in the dining room of the beautifully decorated main house. Conversation ranged from activities in the Chianti Classico Zone, olive oil production, the delicious food and future plans for Tenuta Casenuove.  We also learned that Alessandro is produces an excellent dessert wine on his own property.

Tenuta Casenuove also produces an excellent extra virgin olive oil which tasted during dinner.

Dinner

   Our dinner began with fettuccine with a sausage ragu made by the chef of Tenuta Casenuove.

Next we had a typical beef stew of the region served with mashed potatoes.  Our meal was matched perfectly with the wines we had previously sampled.

With our dessert, Michele had a glass of port from one of Tenuta Casenuove’s owner’s estates in Portugal, Quinta da Côrte Porto LBV 2016, and I had a very traditional grappa made from Sangiovese.

Dessert was a classic crostata di marmellata filled with homemade jam made with an assortment of berries.

We stayed overnight in one of the lovely appointed rooms in the main building.

We left early the next day and on the way back to Florence I had a chance to reflect on how much I had enjoyed the wines of Tenuta Casenuove and how pleased I was to see them making Chianti Classico wines in the traditional way.

 

 

Fattorie Isola: Organic Sardinian Wines

A few weeks ago Michele and I were in Florence for the day and met with Elisa Bosco. We have know Elisa, who is an export communications consultant for wineries for a number of years. Elisa wanted to tell us about a winery she represents in Sardinia and leave us some samples.  It’s always a pleasure to see her, catch up and try some of the wines she represents.

The Winery

Fattorie Isola was founded in 2018 by Luigi Cuccaru with the help of the oenologist Renzo Panetto. It is based in Sardinia in the province of Sassari, municipality of Sorso, locality of Tres Montes, an area well suited for the cultivation of organic grapes. There are 8.5 hectares of vineyards.

All the wines are certified organic and they use as little SO2 as possible to ensure the stability and longevity of the wine. The alcoholic fermentation and all the oenological practices to obtain the wines respect the protocols provided for in EU Regulation 203/2012 for organic wines.

The Wines

Sardegna Semidano Superiore 2023 DOP made from 100% Semidano. There is a short cold maceration of the must before fermentation. This a fragrant fruity white wine with hints of peach, apricot, floral notes and fresh acidity. It is a native white grape from central Sardegna (Campidano). Semidano almost disappeared during the 80’s, but then, especially thanks to the work of Fattorie Isola’s oenologist, it was preserved. However it is a very limited production and today there are just a few hectares in the whole island (less than 14), and only a few producers who make wines from this grape. I have to thank Elisa for introducing me to this wine. $15

Vermentino DI Sardegna 2023 DOP made from 100% Vermentino grapes left on the vine until the end of September so the grapes are very ripe. The soil is sandy, clayey and loamy and the average age of the vines is 25 years. There are 4,000 vines per hectare.  Training system is guyot. Hand harvest with sorting of the grapes in the field into boxes and the grapes are cooled to +5° C for 48 hours before vinification, with a further 12 hours of cold maceration of the skins after pressing. Fermentation is in 100 HL stainless steel tanks with selected yeast. Malolactic fermentation does not take place.  Aging is in steel tanks. $24

Cannonau DI Sardegna. 2022  DOP made from 100% Cannonau grapes harvested well ripeened at the end of summer.  Vineyards are at 150 meters and the soil is granite. The harvest is manual in boxes and the grapes are cooled to +10/12°C before vinification to slow down the start of fermentation. The vinification takes place in thermo-conditioned containers with maceration of the skins for 14/15 days. The wine has hints of cherries, raisins, myrtle and a hint of liquorice.    $15

Cannonau Di Sardegna 2021 DOP Riserva made from 100% Cannonau.  These grapes are grown organically in the LUIGI CUCCARU vineyard in Tres Montes in the municipality of Sorso (SS) IT. One year after vinification, the wine is aged in oak tonneaus for approximately 6/8 months before being bottled. The wine has hints of morello cherries, raisins, myrtle and a touch of vanilla. $20

They also make a Rosato DOP from Cannonau di Sardegna grapes and a Spumante Brut “Kessa” DOP from Vermentino di Sardegna grapes.

For more information on the winery and the wines contact:

ElisaBosco.Wine

Export & Communication Consulting

eb@elisabosco.wine

ITA +39 334 1588164

USA +1 646 593 8886

http://www.elisabosco.wine

Supper with Daniele Cernilli “Doctor Wine”

One of the highlights of my visits to Rome is the opportunity to see old friends like Daniele Cernilli (Doctor Wine) and Marina Thompson, his wife.  This year, they invited Michele and I to their home for a light supper with some special wines.

Daniele is one of the world’s foremost experts on Italian wine and is the author of The Essential Guide to Italian Wine which is updated annually.  Pictured above is the 10th edition, published for 2024. The book is my go-to reference book for Italian wines since, as Daniele said, “All the wines worth drinking are in the pages of this guide.”  Both Italian and English versions of the book are available.

GT Ravenna Bianco 2011 “Tergeno” Fattoria Zerbina made from 6% Albano late harvest, 34% Albano secco, and 50% Chardonnay from different vineyards with different training systems and different quantities of vines per hectare. Part of the Albano is fermented in barriques while the remainder ferments in stainless steel. The wine was aged for 12 months in stainless steel and barriques and then 6 months in bottle before release.

The wine was not showing any signs of age. It was rich and opulent with hints of citrus and tropical fruits.  Daniele picked this vintage to go with our foie gras appetizer, a perfect match.

The style of this wine has been changed over the years.  Since 2014, it is a completely different wine and even the label is different from the bottle we tasted.

Tergeno was introduced in 1991 as a blend of three wines: Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Gewürztraminer. After five years as a dry wine they found the results achieved with the Albano grape affected by noble rot was very good.  So they decided to  produce a version in the late harvest style, using a selection of Albano harvested late with  botrytis combined with a part of Chardonnay and vinified as a dry white.

Thanks to botrytis, the wine acquires a very distinct and unique personality. Starting from the 2014 harvest this wine is 100% Albano, with 30% late harvested.  Today the fermentation is in stainless steel and the wine is aged in stainless steel and 6 months in bottle before release.

.Castellucci Miano DOC Valledolmo-Contea di Sclafani-Sicily “Shiara” Bianco 2012  made of 100% Catarratto from 30/40  years old vines located on the slopes of the Madonie Montains at 700/900 meters.   Training system is alberello and sapling, the pruning is guyot and spur.  Soil is half sand and clay with an alkaline reaction due to active limestone. Harvest takes place in October. White wine vinification with fermentation at a controlled temperature. Malolactic fermentation does not take place. The wine remains in stainless steel for 6 months and then in bottle for 4 months before release. The wine has hints a citrus fruit, apple, and pear with a touch of cantaloupe and crisp acidity $35.  Catarratto is a grape indigenous to Sicily. I tasted the 2019 last year with the US importer, Tony Margiotta of Gladiator wines. As Daniele said, this is a white wine that can age.

Smoked salmon served with toast points and French butter

Foie Gras Bloc

Roasted Marinated Yellow  Peppers

Barbaresco DOCG 2016 ‘Manzola”   Nada Fiorenzo made from Nebbiolo (Lampia and Michet) from Manzola in the commune of Treiso in Piedmont. The vines were planted in 1998 and the soil is calcareous-clayey with sandy outcrops. Exposure is  southwest at 230 meters. Manual harvest followed  by a soft pressing of the grapes and separate vinification for each single parcel. There are no herbicides and other invasive vine protection products used and a return to old practices such as hand-hoeing.  Aging is in oak for 24 months and in bottle for 6 months before release.  The wine has hints of cherry, licorice, leather, tea and a hint of spice. It is a wine that can age.

Baked eggplant with tomato and mozzarella was our main course.

Vinsanto del Chianti Classico 2013 Fontodi in half bottle made from Malvasia and Sangiovese from various vineyards within the property.  There are 3,500 to 6,000 vines per hectare and the training system is guyot. The grapes are naturally dried for 5 months after harvest. After the pressing, the must is racked into chestnut and oak barrels of 50 and 110 liters where aging takes place for at least 6 years. There are only 3,000 bottles produced. Fontodi is located in Panzano in Chianti. This is an excellent dessert wine with hints of hazelnut, dried apricot, honey and a touch of caramel.

Tiramisu — A classic version that Daniele highly recommended

I always enjoy seeing Daniele and Marina and I always learn something new.

Lunch Overlooking the Colosseum

A few years ago, Iris Carulli, a mutual friend introduced Michele and I to Maureen Fant. Until that time, we knew of Maureen only by her writings as an Italian food expert and author of several books about Italian food and history.  A native New Yorker, Maureen has lived in Rome for many years and describes herself as a “lapsed classicist.”  Currently, she is the coprincipal of Elifant Archaeo-Culinary Tours.

Recently, Maureen and her husband Franco Filippi invited Michele and I and a group of friends for lunch in her apartment overlooking the Colosseum in Rome.

Maureen did all the cooking with a little help from her friends and the wines were supplied by Maureen’s husband Franco.

Maureen (second left), Franco (far right), and some of the guests sipping welcome glasses of Ca’del Bosco spumante before the antipasto which included fresh cheeses, marinated carrots, dried tomatoes, olives, marinated anchovies, and many other savory bites.

Franciacorta  DOCG  Extra Brut 2018 Vintage Collection Ca’ del Bosco (Lombardia) made from 65%  Chardonnay, 5% Pinot Bianco and 30% Pinot Nero from 27 certified organic vineyards. Grapes are hand harvested and each individual bunch is washed and dried. Fermentation takes place for 5 months in oak barrels. The wine remains on the yeasts for an average of 48 months. This is an elegant wine with hints of citrus fruit, apple and pear lemon and a touch of pineapple. One of my favorites.

Vino Spumante Brut Metodo Classico Stefanini (Lazio) made from 100% Rossetto. White wine vinification with selected yeasts in steel tanks at a controlled temperature. Malolactic fermentation does not take place. The wine spends 24 months on the lees. This was a first for me. I did not know the wine or the producer. It is a full bodied spumante with hints of citrus fruit, floral notes, a touch of almonds and nice minerality.

Garganelli con sugo di cipolle — pasta with onion sauce

Barolo Bussia Giacomo Fenocchio 2018 100% Nebbiolo varieties Michet and Lampia. Monforte d’Alba-Sottozone Bussia (Piemonte).  From a 5 hectare vineyard facing south/southwest at 300 meters. The soil is Helvetian with clayey and calcareous sediments, rich in iron. The vines are 30 years old. Traditional natural fermentation without added yeasts for 40 days in stainless steel tanks. The wine ages for 6 months in stainless steel tanks and 30 months in large Slavonian casks 35 to 50 hl. It remains in the bottle a time before release. This is a classic Barolo with hints of spice, licorice, roses, tar and tea. I visited the winery a few years ago and have always enjoyed their wines.

Roasted Pork Loin with Pancetta and Herbs

Negroamaro Salento IGP Rosso  2013 “Patriglione” Cosimo Taurino made from 100% Negramaro from 40 to 50 year old vines. The vineyard is 15 hectares with a east/west exposure, flat elevation and the soil is calcareous. There are 6,000 plants per hectare and the training system is spurred Apulian small trees. The grapes are picked late the second week of October. The fermentation tanks are vitrified concrete and there is an automatic cooling system. Fermentation is for 10/15 days with 8/12 days skin contact.This is a wine that will age for many years. It has hints of dry black fruit, blackberries blueberries, prune and raisins. I have been drinking the wines from Cosimo Taurino for many years.

On the plate.  Roast pork loin, mashed potatoes, braised artichokes and pearl onions agrodolce.

Our dessert was made by another guest, Susan Westmoreland.

It was a rich and spicy ginger cake served with braised apples and whipped cream.

Thank you Maureen and Franco for a delicious Roman meal with great friends!

 

 

Sunday Lunch in Rome

A number of years ago a friend Iris Carulli recommended we try Ristorante La Tavernaccia Da Bruno in Testaccio for traditional Roman cuisine.  We had a great meal  and have returned many times. Last Sunday we went again and it was as good as ever.

We were greeted by Patrizia Persiani, one of the owners.

I stopped to admire the pastry display.  It is a very cozy and welcoming restaurant.

A Family Affair

La Tavernaccia Da Bruno was founded in Rome by Bruno Persiani and his wife Giovanna Giuliacci in 1968. Since 2005 the restaurant, has specialized in traditional recipes and run with professionalism and passion by Bruno and Giovanna’s daughters, Paola and Patrizia, and the latter’s husband, Giuseppe Ruzzettu (the chef) . A few years ago, Giuseppe and Patrizia’s son, Gabriele Ruzzettu, joined the staff.

Michele and I ordered the same dishes. Each time the waitress asked, “uno per due?” and Michele answered “No, uno per uno.” It was very nice that she asked if we wanted half portions but we were very happy we ordered full portions..

We started with liver crostini, a dish I associate more with Tuscany than Rome.  But it was a perfect starter, tangy with capers and vinegar.

. For our pasta course, we ordered the pasta alla gricia, one of the four favorite pastas of traditional Roman cooking.  It’s made with guanciale (pork cheek), pecorino cheese and lots of black pepper and served here with thick, homemade spaghetti.

For our main course, we had roast suckling pig.  The skin was crispy and the tender meat was scented with herbs.  With it we had rosemary roasted potatoes and an order of cicoria ripassata.  Chicory is a member of the endive family that is popular at this time of the year.  It was sauteed with garlic and chile.

 

Chianti Classico DOCG “San Donatino” Poggio Ai Mori made from 100% Sangiovese. The  vineyard is at 400 meters  and the soil is mainly galestro. Training system is spurred cordon and guyot. There is mechanical weeding and the use of green manure in alternate years. Only copper, sulfur and products compatible with the Certification Bio are used. Harvest is by hand. Traditional vinification with daily pumping over. Spontaneous fermentation is by natural yeasts. The fermentation is not temperature controlled. The wine remains on the skins for three weeks and it remains on the lees for 6 months. The wine is aged in steel for 2 years and in bottle for 6 months before release. It has hints of cherry, red current, raspberry, a touch of plum and a hint of violets. The wine was perfect match with the food.

Ristorante La Tavernaccia Da Bruno

Via Giovanni da Castel Bolognese, 63  Rome.          Closed Wednesday

+39 06 5812792

latavernaccia.roma@gmail.com